When is an aftermarket radiator needed?

At what power level would an aftermarket radiator be needed/helpful. I'm building a procharged 383 that will hopefully make around 700rwhp and I plan on running an electric wp and an aftermarket radiator if needed. Also what brand is recommended? I see Be Cool and Griffin both have direct replacements but are a bit pricey(around $550-$650).

check the forced induction forums. Several of us are using universal radiators and standing them vertical. Gives us more room and good cooling as well.

I still have the stock radiator but it is in very good shape. I imagine the average radiator needs replacing anyway by this time.

check the forced induction forums. Several of us are using universal radiators and standing them vertical. Gives us more room and good cooling as well.

It looks like there is some controversy as to where the steam pipe needs to t-in with the universal radiators. The LT1 specific radiators already have everything built in from the steam tube connection to the low coolant sensor. But for the extra savings $200 vs. $600 and extra room in front of the motor, it looks like it might be worth the hassle of custom fabbing one.

Does anyone know if a Griffin LT1 radiator will work with the stock AC system while running a D1SC? Is there enough room without having clearance problems with the pulleys and fans?

If not, what radiators are you vertical radiator guys running?

The vertical radiator most commonly used is the Griffin 27.5 x 15.5 x 3 universal. There are NO provisions for the oil cooler, trans lines, or steam pipe though.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D25241%2DX&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I just got mine in yesterday, unfortunately damaged, but props to summit for shipping me a new one and having UPS pick up the old one at delivery. Had a punch in the center about 1" long on two rows with a flow through bar dinged pretty good, not taking any chances on it leaking.

It looks like there is some controversy as to where the steam pipe needs to t-in with the universal radiators. The LT1 specific radiators already have everything built in from the steam tube connection to the low coolant sensor. But for the extra savings $200 vs. $600 and extra room in front of the motor, it looks like it might be worth the hassle of custom fabbing one.

Does anyone know if a Griffin LT1 radiator will work with the stock AC system while running a D1SC? Is there enough room without having clearance problems with the pulleys and fans?

If not, what radiators are you vertical radiator guys running?

you can order it directly from griffin, and they well add the steam pipe for another $50ish

;)

you can order it directly from griffin, and they well add the steam pipe for another $50ish

;)

Yeah, but for that price(around $320) and that's without the lines for the tranny, I could almost get a direct fit LT1 radiator(around $450).

So is anyone running one of these griffins on a D1SC setup? What about keeping AC? How is the clearance, does it cool better?

Sorry to highjack....Anyone have any pics of the vertical rad? I might have to do this in the very near future.

I searched and didn't come up with much.

Sorry to highjack....Anyone have any pics of the vertical rad? I might have to do this in the very near future.

I searched and didn't come up with much.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=586694

I did a Be-Cool rad replacement from Summit for a LT1 97SS M6. 383 - D1. Moved it forward and almost vertical to make room for a vac pump mod. I have some pics on photobucket.com (search under mzgp5x) You can run AC with a Be-Cool rad in the stock location. I used 2 - 12" flex-lite fans to clear the electric WP. The stock fan assembly interfeared with the WP and the ATI 12 rib belt drive (the belt tension pulley). The Be-Cool rad is a bit larger than a Griffin, so, it was intalled @ a slight angle (bottom forward - top rearward). It made alot of room up-front and provides better cooling due to the additional air space. I had to cut the top and bottom stock rad support out and re-fab new mount pieces for re-location of the rad. Hope this helps. B.

Heres a few and how I did mine..
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452502&highlight=vertical+radiator
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695288&highlight=radiator+stand+up

At what power level would an aftermarket radiator be needed/helpful. I'm building a procharged 383 that will hopefully make around 700rwhp and I plan on running an electric wp and an aftermarket radiator if needed. Also what brand is recommended? I see Be Cool and Griffin both have direct replacements but are a bit pricey(around $550-$650).

Stock radiator and fans will work fine with a supercharger. Sometimes when sitting in traffic on 90 degree days with the AC on the temp will rise to about 220. As long as your system holds pressure and has the proper 50/50 mix it will not overheat. As soon as you turn off the AC or the vehicle starts moving the temp will lower to 180 or whatever your thermostat is set for.:)

I don't see why an aftermarket radiator would be needed for such a setup. Why not try to run with the stocker and see what type of cooling you get.

I'm sure alot is going to have to do with how or if you open up the front end for front mount intercooling, type/frontal area of IC, fan setup, angle of radiator, thermostat, street/strip, etc.

Just things to consider, I know I really didn't answer your question though. I would try to run the stocker before spending additional money.

-Scott.