Little Computer Help (Tuning)

I got my 383 in my car and running, and I got my CarPuter installed in my car and running. Just got TunerCat and DataMaster working. Now its time to start removing some things. Here is what I need to correct for:

More Cubes
Bigger Injectors
AIR/CAT Delete
EGR Delete (Have A DTC For EGR Electrical Fault)



First thing I need to do is up the cubes: So.

Cubic Inches / 61.5 = Liters
Liters x 1000 = Milliliters
Milliliters / Number of Cylinders = Milliliters per Cylinder

so for me:

383CI / 61.5 = 6.22L (wow, I got a 6.2L in my car..sweeet)
6.2L X 1000 = 6227mL
6227mL / 8 = 778Ml/Cyl

So Im going to change cylinder volume to 778 then. correct?


Next is injectors:
Im using 42# Lucas injectors from Racetronics and the stock fuel pressure regulator. Settin the Injector Flow Rate to match my static flow rate?.. wich is a hair over 42#.. but doing I have to calibrate for fuel pressure?..

what about display injector flow rate?

Next I need to delete the AIR Injection.. I didnt get a code for this. so I dont think I need to do anything do I?.. maybe set


now I need to do something about EGR.

I will start with changing EGR Enable MAX RPM to 0. and min RPM to as high as it will go, and EGR min MAP to enable to the highest I can. correct?. or is there a easier way. how do I get rid of the electrical DTC?, well I know how to get rid of it how do I keep it from coming back?


I may also want to do somehting with my fans?


I put my fuel cutof speed to 255mph.

I also put my fuel cutof rpm at 4500.. just in case for break in. I dont want to go to high yet. that sound ok?


min coolant temp for cat protect.. put to max? since I dont have one


anything else real important at this point?

I got my 383 in my car and running, and I got my CarPuter installed in my car and running. Just got TunerCat and DataMaster working. Now its time to start removing some things. Here is what I need to correct for:

More Cubes
Bigger Injectors
AIR/CAT Delete
EGR Delete (Have A DTC For EGR Electrical Fault)



First thing I need to do is up the cubes: So.

Cubic Inches / 61.5 = Liters
Liters x 1000 = Milliliters
Milliliters / Number of Cylinders = Milliliters per Cylinder

so for me:

383CI / 61.5 = 6.22L (wow, I got a 6.2L in my car..sweeet)
6.2L X 1000 = 6227mL
6227mL / 8 = 778Ml/Cyl

So Im going to change cylinder volume to 778 then. correct?

Sounds like a plan.

Next is injectors:
Im using 42# Lucas injectors from Racetronics and the stock fuel pressure regulator. Settin the Injector Flow Rate to match my static flow rate?.. wich is a hair over 42#.. but doing I have to calibrate for fuel pressure?..

Set it on 42 for now and adjust later if need be.

what about display injector flow rate?

Leave it alone.

Next I need to delete the AIR Injection.. I didnt get a code for this. so I dont think I need to do anything do I?.. maybe set

Go in the switch table and turn off the code

now I need to do something about EGR.

I will start with changing EGR Enable MAX RPM to 0. and min RPM to as high as it will go, and EGR min MAP to enable to the highest I can. correct?. or is there a easier way. how do I get rid of the electrical DTC?, well I know how to get rid of it how do I keep it from coming back?

Turn off the code, dont worry about what is commanded or when, zero out the timing table for when egr is activated.

I may also want to do somehting with my fans?

That is in the constants table 180F is a good start for a 160 stat may need adjustment later though.

I put my fuel cutof speed to 255mph.

I also put my fuel cutof rpm at 4500.. just in case for break in. I dont want to go to high yet. that sound ok?

Remove this, you will not hurt it. You need some load and cylinder pressure to seat the rings. Don't baby it, but dont beat it like you hate it either.

min coolant temp for cat protect.. put to max? since I dont have one

Non issue imo but wont hurt

anything else real important at this point?

You need to adjust your target idle rpm vs coolant temp, and you need to make your closed tps timing values the same in the 400-800-1200rpm cells, start with 26*. Zero your idle over and underspeed spark advance tables for about 75rpm each way and get more aggressive than the stock table after that but start at 2* or so at 100rpm off target.

Set your blm map boundaries to like 50 65 and 80 if you have a decent size cam in it. Set your rpm boundaries to like 1500 1900 and 2300 depending on your gearing and where you cruise at. That should get you using more of the blm cells instead of just one or two with the stock boundaries. You can experiment here a bit.

wow.. great post. I like how you copy and paste mine then asnwer in bold that is sweet.. very straight forward.. nice..

I got the first half done (the copy and paste info).. I am still a little sketchy on the other stuff. but I will sit down friday and really hammer this thing out. I am not looking for performance rite now.. I am just happy driving around town and kickin the butt end out a little here and there (not hard on street tires).. so I think with the cylinder volume, and injectors acounted for in the pcm, im ok to put a few miles under the hood right?.

Thanks very much. I will look back here in a few days when I get time to check the program out better and I bet I will as a few more question. lol. Thanks again


Edit:

i got a few sceonds. lol..

I put EGR Spark Advance VS Vacuume Vs RPM tables all to ZERO.

I did the cylinder volume and injector stuff.

I Ddeleted all EGR and AIR codes

left fans alone for now

left spark alone for now

and left the boundry stuff alone for now

Yes you are fine to drive it around but to do a part throttle tune correctly, you really need to modify your RPM and MAP boundaries and start doing some logging so you can get your BLM's in line and get the car running correctly.

At least do the idle rpm and spark crap, so it doesnt fall on its face or act erratic when you come to a stop and will idle alot nicer than with the stock garbage.

Also at some point you will want to lean out the open loop table or you will get a fuel stain on your back bumper from running way rich when cold. Your plugs will last longer if you do this as well.