Single T76 LT1 Just Back from the Dyno-

Color me very happy!

Max PSI : 12
Max RWTQ: 571
Max RWHP: 574

Engine
=============
Displacement......: 355 ci
Heads.............: Stock LT1 Castings, ported by Will Garza
Fuel Injectors....: 60# Mototrons
Compression Ratio.: 8.8:1 Diamonds
Cam...............: Custom Bret Bauer Turbo Cam
Throttle Body.....: Stock 48mm
Intake Manifold...: Stock Lt1
Exhaust...........: Log Manifold, 3" pipe all the way back to 3" Dynomax Muffler
Machine work......: Jim Pitcher-Chatham, NY 12037

Fuel System
===========
Stock intank
NOS Inline pump
Stock lines
Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator


Tuning
=======
PCM Tuning........: Untouched Mail Order MAF tune by Bryan Herter @ PCM4Less

Transmission
============
Transmission......: Stock T56 Six Speed

Rear Gear ratio
===============
Differential......: 4.10:1 Ford 8.8 w/GM 10 bolt 'legs'

Turbo Specifics
===============
Turbo.............: TC 76 w/MPS Wheel .96 A/R(www.forcedinductions.com)
Intercooler.......: 3" OBX air to air, front mounted
Hotside...........: "RealQuick" log manifold system
Coldside..........: Ebay 3" Aluminum pipe/coupler/Tbolt kit
Water/Meth........: NO
Boost controller..: NO
Wastegate.........: TurboSmart 38mm w/14Psi springs
Blow off valve....: Tial 50mm w/11psi spring

Dyno Facility
=============
SGP Racing - Veterans Memorial, Houston, TX

RPM/Boost/TQ/HP Measurements(I had him start at 3K)
================================================
3,000 = 05 psi = 400 = 240
3,250 = 06 psi = 370 = 245
3,500 = 07 psi = 400 = 260
3,750 = 08 psi = 425 = 320
4,000 = 10 psi = 465 = 355
4,250 = 11 psi = 500 = 400
4,500 = 12 psi = 571 = 475 (We think the Wastegate opened after this)
4,750 = 11 psi = 571 = 525
5,000 = 11 psi = 565 = 548
5,250 = 11 psi = 560 = 560
5,500 = 11 psi = 540 = 565
5,750 = 11 psi = 525 = 570
6,000 = 11 psi = 500 = 574
6,250 = 11 psi = 475 = 565

Air fuel Ratio was 11.x:1 during 3K to 6K, then briefly went to 12.x:1
Weather conditions at the time of dyno:
1pm today 97 degrees F, 40% humidity, 29.9 barometric Pressure, dew point 69F
Test was through full exhaust, no dumps/cutouts. Air filter on. At 12 psi during the first pull, the reducer coupler at the compressor outlet popped off. Dan took a break while I got under there to put the coupler back on with a good T-Bolt. To my horror, I saw the Air filter was GONE. I remembered hitting some retread crap the other day when the car in front of me just went over it and I didn't have time to react but I didn't consider it could have wacked that low slung air filter. I don't know how long I've been driving around, drinking dirt into my new wonderful motor, but it's been at least 2 days. I bought a 3" cast aluminum elbow I found in SGP Racings Box 'o pipes and put that on there. I was frustrated when SGP didn't have a 4" K&N filter but Dan had Moshi drive me over to Pep Boys to get one, free of charge. :)
With that all back on and buttoned up we took the second pull. The TQ/HP lines on the graph are sooo smooth. Not jittery or having spikes and dips. This is an untouched/altered mail order turbo tune! Good Job Bryan!

I asked Dan why it was that a wastegate with 14psi springs would open up at 12psi and he said he's sees it a lot with cars that don't have boost controllers. He recommended I get a Blitz electronic boost controller so I'm going to pick that up next paycheck!

Jon (aka "RealQuick"), good job on the hotside!

Congrats man!!!! Cant wait to see what my T88 kit from Jon will throw out =)

Nice..

Very nice numbers. Those ported stock heads are performing well. You are very lucky to have your A/F ratio turn out to be right the first time. I used one of Bryans tunes for my base tune when I first got my supercharger. I still use it to pick and choose tables from.:)

Thanks guys:)

This dyno (Dynapack) is different than any dyno I've been on before. They take your wheels off and bolt on these splined yokes. Each side of the car has a dyno box that the splined wheels go into. The great thing about this is there's no wheel slip/spin like occastionally happens on a conventional drum. The operator said it's the best kind of dyno for tuning. I know the "Mustang" dyno numbers read low compared to a dynojet numbers for a given car but I didn't know if this brand of dyno I was on today was 'optimistic' or 'pessimistic'. Tiago said it's actually quite pessimistic and he felt that my numbers on a dynojet would be over 600. It sure felt good to hear that.


Very nice numbers. Those ported stock heads are performing well. You are very lucky to have your A/F ratio turn out to be right the first time. I used one of Bryans tunes for my base tune when I first got my supercharger. I still use it to pick and choose tables from.:)

Nice numbers. I was just wondering how the 4:10 drive with that setup?

What tires are you running on the street?

Thanks,

-Scott.

It has turned out to be very nice for the daily driver aspect. You always hear about turbo lag but with the 4.10's it just jumps away from stoplights with a real urgency. Then on the freeway, the 6th gear takes charge and it's almost lugging the motor at 55mph.
My tires right now are the stock sized 245x50x16 Kuhmos I put on the car in 2003. They're fine for those 3rd gear and up romps but not of much use for anything below that. I'm looking at some new tires and rims but don't have a specific rim in mind other than a 17" rim, not garish and not too heavy. The tires, I just saw a listing for some 295 and 315's by M/T Street Radials that look good for the rears to me. On prior engines, I've gone thru 3 sets of Nittos and one set of BFG DR's so I know they are 'better' over all in performance but even my old setup could easily overcome those at the strip. I'll have a set of real slicks on separate rims soon for those days when I get to race at the tracks.


Nice numbers. I was just wondering how the 4:10 drive with that setup?

What tires are you running on the street?

Thanks,

-Scott.

Would like to see what it puts down in 50 degree weather instead of 97. Think your going to need a in tank pump soon too. Cant believe you just have injectors and a boost a pump.

Yes! Me too! I'm so glad I'm at the point where I can enjoy the car, even though I'm still adding this and that. I'll go twin Walbro's in-tank within a month. As to the injectors and pump, I know. I've been reading the Forced Induction threads these past 3 years as I've been accumulating parts for this project and it seemed the common aspect of every success story was that the tune was imperative. Bryan Herter's name seemed to come up a lot so I tasked him with coming up with the tune. Far before I got the car running, I got the mail order tune and opened it up in my LT1 Editor. I'd been disappointed in past tunes from MTI and Ed Wright for my prior motor to see that they'd charged $275(MTI) and $350(FastChips) but had only (a) raised the rev limit (b) zero'd the knock tables (c) Turned the fans on early. In stark contrast, Bryan changed tons of stuff. The truth in the telling was actually driving the car once it was all together. Smooth running, A/F ratios stunningly right on the money whether cruising or boosting. I gave him every nuance of the setup in terms of hardware, goals and driving style and he seems to have pretty much nailed it. I'm sure there's probably more to be had by tweaking it, but for a baseline, I can't imagine how it could have been improved.

Those are nice numbers. I'm sure your car is a blast to drive.

Bryan is the man, he has done great things with my N/A and S/C tune, so he will be tuning my car whenever something has to be tweaked.

Nice Dave!!!!!! Just think, with a little more boost and a nice set of AI or LE TFS heads, you should be able to hit 650-700rwhp on a dynojet. I think the dynapack reads lower than a dynojet because it loads the car like a mustang dyno.

BTW - ditch those 4.10's for 3.55's or 3.42's and I bet peak tq comes down to ~3400rpm.

Dunno if I really want more power on my street car. It's absolutely hairy to drive at peak power as it is. I killed two 600cc sport bikes last Saturday night and it wasn't even a close contest. I admit those are small. I used to have a GSXR 1100 and a Ducati 916SS so those would be a better match. Just gotta go hunting for some liter bikes I guess :)



Nice Dave!!!!!! Just think, with a little more boost and a nice set of AI or LE TFS heads, you should be able to hit 650-700rwhp on a dynojet. I think the dynapack reads lower than a dynojet because it loads the car like a mustang dyno.

I'd check your tune/logs... seems like you hit 400rwtq @ 5psi at 3000rpm, then you lose tq at 6psi, then hit 400rwtq @ 7psi at 3500rpm. Seems like you have a dip in the tq curve (fuel or spark related since there isnt any tire spin with a dynapack).

3,000 = 05 psi = 400 = 240
3,250 = 06 psi = 370 = 245
3,500 = 07 psi = 400 = 260
3,750 = 08 psi = 425 = 320

Yes. It was odd in that way. It did exactly the same on both pulls though. The graph lines are very smooth, like ocean swells. I'll see if I can get the sheets scanned so I can post them.


I'd check your tune/logs... seems like you hit 400rwtq @ 5psi at 3000rpm, then you lose tq at 6psi, then hit 400rwtq @ 7psi at 3500rpm. Seems like you have a dip in the tq curve (fuel or spark related since there isnt any tire spin with a dynapack).

3,000 = 05 psi = 400 = 240
3,250 = 06 psi = 370 = 245
3,500 = 07 psi = 400 = 260
3,750 = 08 psi = 425 = 320

time to update your website...

Yes sir! I was thinking about that just this morning. I have to put all the crap I went thru after the car arrived here on the transport, then finally, the good news.
time to update your website...

Dave, what did your timing look like at WOT?

My laptops battery is shot so I need to buy an inverter to power it in the car and get some scans. Then I'll know what kind of timing is being applied.

Dave, what did your timing look like at WOT?

Just some info I stumbled across... the TC76 actually makes a little less power than a standard T76:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=980725

So Dave, get a T76GTS in there already!!!!!! J/K

Hehehe... To tell the truth, I've got just enough to get just about all of it to the ground. I hear people all around me tell me they're so proud their street cars have these stupendous HP figures and how the tires go up in smoke if they just barely press the gas pedal. I just stand there looking perplexed. Why is that great? I want the car to go Mach III pronto, not nearly stand still and annihilate my expensive tires :)

Just some info I stumbled across... the TC76 actually makes a little less power than a standard T76:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=980725

So Dave, get a T76GTS in there already!!!!!! J/K
KEEP THE TC76!!!! I LOVED that turbo over my T76GTS and my ball bearing turbonectics T76. The TC spools quicker and responds so well and you will only be losing a little bit of power so not worth it to go to the GTS. ;)

Hey Dave,

What spring do you have in the WG? That's not all she has, is it :)

Pretty sure RQ was messin with ya....;)


-Scott.

I have the 14psi Turbosmart spring in it but it's opening up early. I need to get a boost controller. The chassis dyno (dynapack) said it briefly touched 12 psi then, after it opened, only was pushing 11psi up to max RPM of 6200. My boost gauge (Autometer) may be calibrated different but it only shows 10 psi when the waste gate opens up. I need to get a boost controller on it and lock it at 14. The motor is built to take 800hp but I don't have the fuel system for that. Besides, like I said, I can barely get the power I have to the ground :)
I'm still running the mail order tune, also. There's plenty more power there. I just don't need it yet.


Hey Dave,

What spring do you have in the WG? That's not all she has, is it :)

Pretty sure RQ was messin with ya....;)


-Scott.

The motor is built to take 800hp

I'm jealous. Mine's a stock bore 350 with SRP slugs.

You going to stick with the MAF?

-Scott.

So far, I will stay with the MAF. I'm really pretty satisfied with the AFR numbers I'm seeing during cruise and WOT even though it's running in Open Loop full time. I ditched the stock narrow band O2's because their placement didn't seem to give accurate readings. I've been tempted to go to Speed Density with a designated 2 BAR MAP sensor but I've read several accounts where users of that method have a consistent and elusive problem with a "tip in" stumble. I'm getting closer to deciding to go to a tuner system like FAST or something similar so I can tune on the fly.

I'm jealous. Mine's a stock bore 350 with SRP slugs.

You going to stick with the MAF?

-Scott.

So far, I will stay with the MAF. I'm really pretty satisfied with the AFR numbers I'm seeing during cruise and WOT even though it's running in Open Loop full time. I ditched the stock narrow band O2's because their placement didn't seem to give accurate readings. I've been tempted to go to Speed Density with a designated 2 BAR MAP sensor but I've read several accounts where users of that method have a consistent and elusive problem with a "tip in" stumble. I'm getting closer to deciding to go to a tuner system like FAST or something similar so I can tune on the fly.

look at megasquirt, IMO, its the way to go

I did really research the MSII and had the DIYAuto.com labeled cable, Assembled(by them) MS and the MSII chip. But there's an absolutely infuriating lack of info on installing it to an LT1. I don't know if these guys that have it are lazy, don't know themselves, protectionist(don't want other guys doing it), spiteful ("Hey, Nobody f*cking helped me. Go f*ck yourself") or most benignly, don't have the time to respond. I've PM'd people here, on www.ls1tech.com and the MS forums. I get either NOTHING or some insipid response like "I use it and like it". I'd even offered to pay people, via PayPal $100 to just give me the info on;

a. How they attached the Reluctor to the HB.
b. Where they got their sensor.
c. How did they attach it the Sensor.
d. A baseline tune.

etc.

I'm pretty sure that if I purchased the 36/1 reluctor wheel and the ford sensor to read it, I'd have my signal though there is a guy that has found how to read the Stock Opti but, somewhat understandably, he's not giving that info out. He's selling it for over $1,xxx.xx and it includes the MSII incorporated into a modified Stock PCM housing. That might actually be the way to go when you consider the cost of the reluctor, sensor, machine work, MSII hardware, wiring and ease of installation. With his setup, you don't even need the MS cable, all wiring has been tapped into the stock harness internally in the PCM housing. He even provides a website for setting up the baseline, with actual screen shots/Menu-Option paths and values to load into them. Then he shows screen shots of Megatune so you can get familiar with it.


look at megasquirt, IMO, its the way to go

I did really research the MSII and had the DIYAuto.com labeled cable, Assembled(by them) MS and the MSII chip. But there's an absolutely infuriating lack of info on installing it to an LT1. I don't know if these guys that have it are lazy, don't know themselves, protectionist(don't want other guys doing it), spiteful ("Hey, Nobody f*cking helped me. Go f*ck yourself") or most benignly, don't have the time to respond. I've PM'd people here, on www.ls1tech.com and the MS forums. I get either NOTHING or some insipid response like "I use it and like it". I'd even offered to pay people, via PayPal $100 to just give me the info on;

a. How they attached the Reluctor to the HB.
b. Where they got their sensor.
c. How did they attach it the Sensor.
d. A baseline tune.

etc.

I'm pretty sure that if I purchased the 36/1 reluctor wheel and the ford sensor to read it, I'd have my signal though there is a guy that has found how to read the Stock Opti but, somewhat understandably, he's not giving that info out. He's selling it for over $1,xxx.xx and it includes the MSII incorporated into a modified Stock PCM housing. That might actually be the way to go when you consider the cost of the reluctor, sensor, machine work, MSII hardware, wiring and ease of installation. With his setup, you don't even need the MS cable, all wiring has been tapped into the stock harness internally in the PCM housing. He even provides a website for setting up the baseline, with actual screen shots/Menu-Option paths and values to load into them. Then he shows screen shots of Megatune so you can get familiar with it.

email anthony pcmperformance.com, heres his email

hardware@PCMperformance.com

he can tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about megasquirt, just tell him adam sent you

Well I thought I was getting outta boost doing the ls1 swap but I cant. I just put 4.11s in my m6, and I was wondering how you are liking yours? Running a mp t70 again. I dont want to lag.

Thanks. I love my setup. With the 4.10's, sixth gear is actually usuable from 45 on up and once you're at 55mph, you can actually accelerate in 6th. I can shortshift (shifting at 3K) pretty briskly, never spinning, and just murder the other cars around me, all off boost. Gas mileage seems to be in the 20mpg range with balanced driving of roughly half stop and go and half freeway on my 2x mile commute each way to/from work. I'm running Walmart and Kroger 93 octane, no methanol/alky/water injections.

Well I thought I was getting outta boost doing the ls1 swap but I cant. I just put 4.11s in my m6, and I was wondering how you are liking yours? Running a mp t70 again. I dont want to lag.

So far, I will stay with the MAF. I'm really pretty satisfied with the AFR numbers I'm seeing during cruise and WOT even though it's running in Open Loop full time..... I've been tempted to go to Speed Density with a designated 2 BAR MAP sensor but I've read several accounts where users of that method have a consistent and elusive problem with a "tip in" stumble.....

Dave, just curious what AFR numbers you are getting with the MAF in SD mode.. I have mine between 14-14.9 running only on a 2bar MAP.. no 02's or MAF. BTW, tip-in stumble was cured by lowering the injector constant and leaning out the SD tables (since there is no accel pump table in LT1 Edit or TunerCat).

It's getting colder now and curous how temp will affect the AFR's.

My wide band at cruise whether 35 or 75 mph shows 13.5 to 14.0. At WOT I'm showing 11.5.

I do have a kind of weird plug condition when I pulled them. All 4 on the drivers side are perfect and clean. On the other hand, all 4 of the passenger side are consistent in color but are kind of crummy looking. I don't know if this is a result of the log manifold design difference from one side to the other or what. I'm not losing/burning coolant or burning oil. The car runs great.


Dave, just curious what AFR numbers you are getting with the MAF in SD mode.. I have mine between 14-14.9 running only on a 2bar MAP.. no 02's or MAF. BTW, tip-in stumble was cured by lowering the injector constant and leaning out the SD tables (since there is no accel pump table in LT1 Edit or TunerCat).

It's getting colder now and curous how temp will affect the AFR's.

My wide band at cruise whether 35 or 75 mph shows 13.5 to 14.0. At WOT I'm showing 11.5.

I do have a kind of weird plug condition when I pulled them. All 4 on the drivers side are perfect and clean. On the other hand, all 4 of the passenger side are consistent in color but are kind of crummy looking. I don't know if this is a result of the log manifold design difference from one side to the other or what. I'm not losing/burning coolant or burning oil. The car runs great.


strange about the plugs, I wonder if it has something to do with the individual cyl fuel trim, since the wideband averages both sides. Im afraid to pull mine I just dont want to know what's going on in there, it runs good so I'll leave it alone.

Im cruising around 13.7-14.2ish as well so I guess this is ok.. I didnt know how close to 14.5 we need to be or if it even makes a difference.

Thanks