Fuel Pump Out...Just Replaced

I just frickin bought this car 3 days ago...tonight it shut off on my going down the road, I assumed it was out of gas because the gauges aren't accurate, but I put some in, and no luck, it sputtered for a bit and won't start now. I cannot hear the fuel pump doing anything when I turn the key. Has to be the fuel pump right? I guess Carx replaced the last one and it should still be under warranty, anyone have experience with them? Any problems?

Don't assume. Use a pressure gauge and also check the filter for clogs.

anyone know where the fuel pump fuse is?

anyone know where the fuel pump fuse is?

Do you mean the relay? It's under the driver side kick panel, under the foot pad.

Do you mean the relay? It's under the driver side kick panel, under the foot pad.

I found that, but isn't there a seperate fuse as well?

On second thought, I'm not sure if it's the fuel pump. It won't start even with a combustible spray in the intake....I believe it could be the timing chain. When it turns over it sounds strange like it may have jumped.

fixed the ignition, just a fuse thank god.....now back to square one...fuel pump issue

Generally NOT a good idea to post the same problem on multiple forums. If you do that, and find the solution, POST IT ON BOTH THREADS so people don't waste their time helping you with a problem that has already been solved.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=624989

OK... at your request I moved post #7 from your "deleted" thread on LT1 Engine Tech to this thread, and reopened it.

^^^thanks boss

I bought a new fuel pump relay for $15 and was able to get the car running with no problems. I'm hoping the issue will be solved long term. I'm not sure why the ignition fuses continued to blow, a 15 and 20 amp both cooked, and there is a 25 in now starting it fine. The only problem now is the fuel gauge doesn't read, so maybe the sending unit is faulty.

new fuel pump relay is blown, along with several ignition fuses and again car will not start.....what would be causing these to blow?

Appears you have a short in the wiring to the fuel pump.

Appears you have a short in the wiring to the fuel pump.

this is what i have been told by a few people, are the wires visible under the car of the camaro? Or am I going to have to drop the tank to check for a short?

alright, so I had the car running for about a week with no problems, and tonight it started blowing fuses again. I do not think it's fuel pump related. My ecm ignition fuse keeps blowing out and I could hear a wheezing sound coming from under the dash. So I'm assuming there's a short somewhere but I could not find anything when I checked.

Electrical problems can only be diagnosed/tested when they are present. If it is intermittent, it's going to be extremely hard to track down. If you have multiple fuses blowing, you might start at the back of that fuse panel.

Update on the situation.....

Removed all remote start and alarm components and restored factory wire connections...no fuses are blowing...I solved a security issue I was dealing with, and now the engine cranks..but again the fuel pump does not turn on. I got the car to run for about 1 second and then it shut off right away.

I am getting 12v to the relay, and I can feel the relay clicking when the key is turned. There is no voltage going to the pump. So a wiring issue in between I'm guessing, the only thing I can think of is there is a black wire going to the relay that was spliced into before I removed the remote start. Is this some kind of bypass I interrupted? Or maybe it's a vats issue again allowing the motor to crank but not get fuel? Although the security light is not flashing anymore.

EDIT: I got the pump to turn on a few times, Idk how but it just did. The engine started and then shut down after a second or two. Now the pump is not turning on again.

The small pink wire coming out of the back of the fuse is now melted...it leads to a connection of that wire, the fuel pump relay's pink wire...and then it splits off into two more wires leading under the glove box. However only the wire going to the fuse box is melted, not the other 3. I unplugged the connection going into the metal box under the glove box, (passkey module?) and a fuse still blew. So if it's not that box, then it must just be the wire or the connection there?

new update if anyone is actually reading this, it's becoming more of just a checklist for myself though lol

The black and white wire coming from the fuel pump relay and going to the diagnostic reader...both prongs on each end read a crapload of volts...so I'm guessing a short somewhere along that wire? It's pretty hard to follow it all but I'm going to try.

The black/white wire should be attached to a ground.

Not sure what a "crapload of volts" is.... why not just post the number?

Have you tried replacing the relay?

The black and white wire was spliced into with the remote start/alarm, not sure why...It reads like 50 volts, could that cause the pink one to melt and #5 fuse to short? I replaced the relay a few times already with no success.

!!!!? 50V? Somethings not right, unless you've got 4 batterys wired in series.

I think you need to calibrate yowa meter.

ya that's why I didn't say the number, but just know it's a "crapload," Idk why it's reading like that...but no other wire gives me an insane reading

I cannot find any wires damaged or shorted out..this is getting pretty damn frustrating

when I touch the wire to the back of the fuse (ecm ign #5) I can hear a sound coming from under the hood, kinda like a long wheezing sound, almost like the sound of a computer booting up, is that normal and what could it be?

Maybe the guy wired something into the fuse box or did some custonm wiring that's causing problems, or maybe the place that replaced the pump did a bad job and wasnt careful with the wires. you might want to check the harnes right near the top rear of the gas tank where the edge is real sharp just to make sure it is protected.

Unless you have some sort of transformer in your system, there's no way you can generate 50V with a 12V battery.

You said you removed all the extraneous alarm wiring.... but now you say the black/white wire was "spliced into with the remote start/alarm". Remove the rest of the alarm wiring, and make sure the black/white wire is connected to a chassis ground.

^^^ I meant it was spliced into, not anymore though. I grounded out the black/white wire and still no dice.

I had the fuel pump checked out because it was still under warranty and they did not find any faulty wires. They did however straighten out a fuel line, and the car was good for about a week. Which I don't understand, is it just an intermittent short somewhere else, or maybe it was a line to the pump jiggled free for a week...

Why would just one part of that pink wire connection melt? Just the wire going to the fuse box melted, theres also one going the the fp relay, and two going to what I believe is the passkey 2 (metal box under the glove compartment)

I'm getting code DTC 46 (Personal Automotive Security System (PASS-Key II) Circuit)

Could that just be because the vats is bypassed...or could that be my problem? If the fuse doesn't blow my car cranks, but shuts off right away, so maybe it's shutting the fuel off. I checked the dark blue wire going from passkey to ecm and couldn't find a bad connection at either end. I also checked the pink wire going to the ecm ignition feed and could not find a problem.

how are you making out been reading your posts and no updates, you fix it or shoot it

It turns out there was a wiring harness damaged to the fuel sending unit. I eventually just brought it in to the shop and they discovered this pretty quickly. I wish I would've done that right away but oh well...it's running great now.