Access door to change fuel pump - 4th Gen

How many of you have done this, i really am leary about doing it this way, but under the circumstances, i'm at my wits end, story is, i just installed a new pump (walbro knock-off) when i installed my 9", now it looks like this pump isn't working right, so after all this, i'm just not in the mood to be dropping the rearend & pulling the tank again, so do you think its safe enough? also looking for the measurements on where to cut the door & tools needed.

I've thought about just addeing a inline pump, but not sure if it'll work right, this would save me alot of hassle, bad idea?

Do not cut the car up. Do it right or don't do it at all. Just my two$.

I paid the big bucks to have mine replaced. But if you want to try the quck fix here is a url that has that info:
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html
Have fun.
97WS6

I put the door in mine and I absolutely love it. As a matter of fact I just put in a new walbro 2 weeks ago and I'm not getting pressure from it now. Easy to check. BTW I have been an aircraft mechanic for over 17 years and I believe in doing things the right way once. However if there is an easier way that is still safe, why not. No one will see it or know it is there but you. My two cents.

I put the door in mine and I absolutely love it. As a matter of fact I just put in a new walbro 2 weeks ago and I'm not getting pressure from it now. Easy to check. BTW I have been an aircraft mechanic for over 17 years and I believe in doing things the right way once. However if there is an easier way that is still safe, why not. No one will see it or know it is there but you. My two cents.


I'm going to do the door, after hearing of all these walbro pumps going bad, i'm just going with the holley.

I'm going to do the door, after hearing of all these walbro pumps going bad, i'm just going with the holley.

That will not matter as they are both made by Walbro to the best of my knowledge.

A buddy of mine just bought a Holley fuel pump for his car last week. One side of it says Holley the other side says Walbro.

There sending me another pump, so i'll try it first.

Just buy an AC Delco pump. It's more expensive but you get what you pay for. My new one has been running 10k miles strong.

It took me 36 minutes to cut and r/r my 255lph Walbro...

I wouldn't think twice about cutting it again.

My input,
Ivan :thumb:

It took me 36 minutes to cut and r/r my 255lph Walbro... So I can get it is much or ;)

Just buy an AC Delco pump. It's more expensive but you get what you pay for. My new one has been running 10k miles strong.

Ya know, i'm really thinking about doing this, hell, this factory pump is still working after 158K, so is the Opti, go figure, how much or the AC Delco pumps?

It took me 36 minutes to cut and r/r my 255lph Walbro...

I wouldn't think twice about cutting it again.

My input,
Ivan :thumb:

It took me about the same amount of time to make the hole. And i have worked on my pump a couple times since then, so i am damn glad all I had to do was pull back the carpet and unbolt the hatch. I don't have any reservations whatsoever about this not hurting the car in some way.


http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/kevinblownta/panel1.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/kevinblownta/hatch.jpg

Once you make the access door and you need to go back in there again at some point, you'll say to yourself "Man.... I'm glad i did that access door mod! :cool:". I too am a member of the access door club.

Ken R.

Thanks for the replies, i really don't mind doing the door, it is IMO in no way going to hurt the value of these F bodies, look how cheap there selling for.

I did the door too just last week. If something goes wrong or you need to get back to the pump for any reason...it's right there.

Amen, i got the door cut in 20-25 minutes, pulled the pump assembly, found it was that stupid EFI rubber hose i put in, it swelled at the pump end that i didn't clamp do to no room, so for now i installed a piece of steel braided i had, was also able to get a clamp on that end, so there clamped on both, pump pressure is now at 45 at idle, 50 off the reg., i installed an adj. reg., that thing comes in so handy, just like the door, looks like its fixed for now :rolleyes: :cool:, love the 4.11s, it kicks it pretty good. Now that it has the 9" & custom driveshaft with BMR torque arm, should be ready to rock & roll without breakage ;)

I have an access door too. Glad I did it because I have been in there at least ten times.:)

theres no issue with the door as long as you make a good cover for it. Mine isnt as clean as Kevin Blown 95 TA's but it looks dam good.

Fab something up, you will be glad you did it later down the road.

Another pictorial...
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html

Does this work for 3rd gens too?

I did this a couple of years ago. Worked perfectly! I just drilled a starter hole in one corner (careful pushing the drill, there's a gas tank under there!), then used tin snips to cut the rectangular opening. I did notice that on all of the pics I've seen of the procedure, the pump and fittings are located directly under the small bump that is the backside of the stamped ID number on the bottomside of the sheetmetal. It was that way with mine as well, although I wouldn't count on that. I'd still make a few small holes and look around first, just to get the opening placement right. Also, I used a Door Kick Plate bought at Home Depot as my cover. Just cut it down to the proper length, the width is already good, 8 inches I think, and attach it with some silicone and self-tapping sheet metal screws (SHORT ONES! Remember there's a gas tank ... well, you know).

Love it! Great access. Just like changing an air filter. (2 - 255lph Walbro intank pumps)

Mine :)

http://www.transam.fi/kuvia/2006-07-12%20Trans%20Am%20-%20luukku.jpg

I love it!

I am highly considering this for my FP replacement. I have been kind of weary of cutting the car but dropping the rear to change the pump is not something I am looking forward to.

EDIT: Kevin or -Vellu, would any of you be interested in fabbing up another access cover and selling it to me? :)

Does this work for 3rd gens too?


need to know this too. ASAP

i have it on mine... just make sure your neat about it, and make clean cuts... its perfect.

anyone.....3rd gen????

Yes, it works on thirdgens.

Is there anything different for the procedure? I've done in on two 4th gens, but not on a 3rd.

I was reading about it on thirdgen.org the other day. I don't recall all the details, but it looks pretty much the same. The hole appears to be in the same spot.

Only difference I can see, the guys on thirdgen.org were having to cut the fuel hard lines to get the pump out. Then they patched them up with braided hose, or compression fittings.

Search the forum on thirdgen.org and you're sure to find the info you need. I was actually trying to find it for you, but their site seems to be down right now.

thanks! I will check that out! :)

I have a 96 SS and was wondering if anyone could give an fairly accurate measurement of the space between the tank/hoses and the floor. Just curious as I do not want to hit anything.

Also, would there be enough room to use a shears like this electric shears without hitting the tank or lines?

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/sjdiscounttools_2015_687544702

Thanks,
Clarke

I asked the same question awhile back but I think most people already have the carpet back in place before they measure it and just don't feel like pulling it apart to measure it. I think you'll just have to approximate based on the pictures.
Let me know about those shears. Looks like a good idea.
:)



I have a 96 SS and was wondering if anyone could give an fairly accurate measurement of the space between the tank/hoses and the floor. Just curious as I do not want to hit anything.

Also, would there be enough room to use a shears like this electric shears without hitting the tank or lines?

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/sjdiscounttools_2015_687544702

Thanks,
Clarke

4" Grinder.....metal cutting wheel......17 minutes for the cut....taking your time...

Tape it off to reduce spark throwback....blanket your surround, easier to clean up later..

DO it. :)

-Ivan

I personally don't think there is enough room to use those shears. I actually got the measuements off another thread here and i actually went a little farther to the left with my cutting and im glad i did. I still had a little problem getting the fuel lines unhooked. But i did my cutting with a dremel tool, and like " iprice said use a blanket because there is alot of metal dust

The right way to replace the fuel pump would be to access it through the access door that GM engineered into the car in the first place. Oh, that’s right, they didn’t put one in. But they should have. Don’t do it the hard way just because GM didn’t put in a door like they should have.

I just did the access door and I believe I could have used the electric metal shears I asked about previously to open it up... not definite though as I do not know how far the jaw opens.

I did not feel comfortable using a die grinder and decided to go with a tin snips like this:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/ProductImages/0664260-11.jpg

I drilled a 1/2" hole at each of the 4 corners and used the snips to open it up. The metal is thin and cut very easily. Also made a nice clean, straight cut. I would definitely recommend using a snips for anyone not wanting to use the grinder.

The best way to go IMO!

i just did this last night and it worked great

I cut my hole Monday night and Wed night went to put my new Walbro pump in and it wont fit in the bucket, it feels like it is too large to fit in the 'hole' at the bottom, guess I will have to man up and really push it in....

I don't know if its different for the LT1, but on my 98 I just removed the bucket altogether. Just used a couple hose clamps to hold it on, never had a problem in 5 years.

i just used the hose clamps but i put twin 255 in last night but the car running funny i think it too much fuel or my comp need to relearn the motor

i did the same as kevin and i've had no problems. as long as the carpet can cover it up and i can't see where any body harm could come from... go for it. i've had no issues and it's deff made my job easier. just because GM didn't install it doesn't mean it won't/can't work. if you are concerned about leaking issues just proseal it.

I cut my hole Monday night and Wed night went to put my new Walbro pump in and it wont fit in the bucket, it feels like it is too large to fit in the 'hole' at the bottom, guess I will have to man up and really push it in....

Shon, did you get it to work? I had the same issue on mine and I know of many others who got a pump with no offset like the stock pump, but no details on how well they functioned. I just worry that there would be problems sending fuel if the pump doesnt fit the bucket 'hole' snug like stock.

Shon, did you get it to work? I had the same issue on mine and I know of many others who got a pump with no offset like the stock pump, but no details on how well they functioned. I just worry that there would be problems sending fuel if the pump doesnt fit the bucket 'hole' snug like stock.

yeah, it went in and is working great!

I just did mine Monday night. Other than the fuel line clips being a pain, the pump came out pretty easy. I used these instructions. Worked perfectly!

http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html

I didn't read this whole thread but after doing the fuel pump swap via the "door" a few weeks ago and seeing countless people use grinders of some sort and dealing with sparks I thought I would throw this out there.


Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.

Door is the way to go...

Should have been there from the start, but GM had to save a few bucks -> no door...

Of course, I'm an airframe mechanic for the Army, so sheet metal work is easy for me...

Were these special or high end snips? All the ones I've used in other projects seemed clumsy. How did you start the cut?
Thanks
I didn't read this whole thread but after doing the fuel pump swap via the "door" a few weeks ago and seeing countless people use grinders of some sort and dealing with sparks I thought I would throw this out there.


Tin snips. I do heating and air as well as venting so I used a pair of metal sheers, and it took all of about 2 minutes to cut that whole that I have seen some note in their tutorials, took much longer.

Were these special or high end snips? All the ones I've used in other projects seemed clumsy. How did you start the cut?
Thanks
I'm interested in hearing about the snips also.

I also did the access door about a month ago and it was cake!! Used Wiss tin snips after drilling a pilot hole using a collar on the drill bit, just in case, and all went well!!

I want to thank you guys for all of your posting about how to replace a fuel pump. I have a 1997 z28 and unfortunately, the fuel pump went. I did not want to cut my 5 month old, custom from the cat back welded on exauhaust off and possibly have some mechanic damaging the fuel filler neck by letting the rear hang.
I chose to do it myself.. I used a dremel wheel and took my time making the access door.. I was a bit worried about hitting the tank but found that it is impossible to hit the tank when going slow. You have a decent amount of room to play with if it is cut in the right area. The pump I replaced my stock one with was an ACDelco FLS1077. I chose that pump because it came with the pump, sender, gasket and you don’t have to worry about possibly damaging your basket or resealing your basket. It is as simple as disconnecting the hoses and power; three are best to disconnect under the car one on top. Pulling out the old and dropping in the new, took all of 15 min. to replace after the access hole was cut. My car runs GREAT now.. No problems what so ever!!! Thanks again guys!! :D

Well some how my AC Delco pump started leaking pressure after shut down just about 30 days after replacement. I bought the pump over the internet so labor is not warrantied to replace again.:bang:

I really feel the fuel line to the filter is bad or at least its clamps are leaking and leaks down pressure causing long ing to start - just like before first pump replacement. I did replace the EVC and all those hoses including the pressure valves when i replaced the pump. But I left the Camaro in the garage with a full tank for several hot days and something gave.:freakout: My guess is the fuel line from tank to filter. Anyone know what kind'a line this is? I don't see it on any of my diagrams.:shrug:

:DNow i bought a RACETRONIX/Walbro pump and will replace the sending unit too. But want to cut a trap door in the back to access this instead of another $600 bill. I read here a lot of owners are happy with the trapdoor above the pump.:thumb: Any one know where to cut and how big a cut needed to remove the sender and pump? I want to leave a ledge before cutting to down into the ramp behind the back seat - can i do this or do i need to cut into the bend and down ramp? Is the sender in the center or more to one side?


cardo0:confused:

I cut one on my vert but I don't know if the coupe and convertable are the same, if so I'll measure and possibly take pics.

There's a "sticky" covering this topic at the top of the "Fuel & Ignition" forum, where this topic is normally covered. I'll move your post there.

There's a "sticky" covering this topic at the top of the "Fuel & Ignition" forum, where this topic is normally covered. I'll move your post there.

Thx Inj, thats exactly what i wanted to know.

cardo0:D

This is the BEST way to R&R the pump. Cut the hole with Sheet metal snips (aviation shears they are called) Left and right. Go to a sheet metal shop and get a 20 gage piece of gavalinized sheet metal 3 " larger than the hole. put gasket material around the panel and screw it down. Pre drill the holes in the panel, a slightly larger drill size than the screws. A # 10 pan head screw X3/4 " long -3 in each side. You can roll the carpet back away from the area before you cut the hole. Pre drill the corners of the opening with a 1/4 " drill bit, mark the outline of the hole and cut on the line and finish the opening with a file to smooth out the edges. Gorilla tape can also used to cover the rough edges of the cut metal. I've done it! Daunting at first, but take your time!! The top of the tank is about 1-1/2" -2" from the metal. Cut a small hole at first to get your exact location- its roughly centered on that metal shelf. Best of luck Ted

Did you use self tapping screws when you put the cover plate back on? If so, what size pre-drilled holes did you make? The pan head screw holds without tapping it?

I used a air powered cut-off wheel but I did not like all the sparks. I ended up making a larger hole so it was easy to access the quick disconnect fittings on the fuel lines. It took me maybe over an hour to have the car running again.

Well i got good hole cutting dimensions from the sticky thread.:cz28: So i plan to use a portable jig saw and slide it on a wood block if i need the blade clearance. Also plan to use 1/4x20 SS screws into press nuts if i can find them.:bow:

Anyone know what gauge size the stock sheet metal is? I got plenty of 18 gauge mild carbon steel and would like to match the stock body gauge metal or thicker for the cover plate.:yes:

Any more advice is welcome before i start to cut,
cardo:think:

I don't really like the jigsaw idea, I don't think you will have the clearance to the tank, even with a block of wood, and then there is the wiring to the sender which can be easily cut, etc.....I cut mine with aviation snips with no issues.

Negative with the jig saw - moved to plan "B". I broke 2 jigsaw blades in less than 1 inch.:irk: Bought the biggest tin snips at Hobo Fake and cut the metal door out in 'bout half hour.:thumb:

New questions. How do i reach the hose to tubing connections under the rear shelf metal but above the tank? Do i need to pull the pump and sending unit to access the flex hoses? Is there enough slack in the flex lines to pull up the fuel pump and sending unit? Or do i need to cut another "door" over the tubing lines?

cardo:shrug:

There's a few guys that had trouble getting the far one off, and they cut more metal away to access it, others just were able to get it off somehow. I know on mine it was extremely hard to get one of them off but I was able to do it somehow, I used the small plastic fuel line tools which are very compact and just need to be slid over the line, then popped into the fitting.

Thx for responding Kevin. I read the sticky that tells how others have both cut larger or extra holes and accessed from below. I have seen those short nylon/plastic tools at Car Quest and Lisle Tools makes them also. Looking at the Lisle Master Disconnedt kit now. My hand won't fit under the metal so i expect to cut more metal soon.:rolleyes:


cardo:bang:

.Also plan to use 1/4x20 SS screws into press nuts if i can find them.:bow:

Anyone know what gauge size the stock sheet metal is? I got plenty of 18 gauge mild carbon steel and would like to match the stock body gauge metal or thicker for the cover plate.:yes:
cardo:think:

Just an update. Well i measured 19 guage sheet metal on the piece i cut out.

cardo0

Geez, I'm surprised you were able to cut that, especially since theres no edge where you can start at the back of the blades.

Really surprised myself and got it running. I took my time to assemble the new Walbro pump from Racetronix into a new sending unit. But i had to use the old bucket and was happy it was in good enough condition to reuse. So by the time i had everything staged to put in the tank i was wondering if would all work and whether it was even worth the effort.:think: Then installed and hooked it all up in just an hour and half - pretty much expected more trouble hooking it up.:lol: I did need to disconnect from underneath and work the hoses up a bit, then pull from the top - back an forth a couple of times. No need to cut more metal as the fuel lines can be persuaded by disconnecting below and working by hand - i did have to remove the line clip that hold all four line to the tank edge though. Maybe this should go into the sticky thread for trap doors.:cz28: Yea man, turn the key now in in less than one revolution it fires up.

Well i still need to complete the door cover and plan to use some pull (blind) nuts to fasten it down.
Kevin, i bought the fuel line tools but now realize the GM disconnects can be worked by hand - just pinch the plastic tabs down on both sides.:shame:

I forgot to lube the new tank seal before installing.:irk: Ops, it may leak some fumes 10 years from now.

I found a little tan colored hard plastic O-ring (same stuff as the bucket) i don't where it cam from. Any ideas?:shrug: I suspect it came from the old pumps supply tube and dropped out when i disconnected it. Also a wide black ring came out the same time and a small black O-ring cam from somewhere? Anyone know these parts?

cardo0:metal:

I'm not sure why this thread was even necessary, when there was a thread already stickied.

I'll merge it, but it would have been easier if all this was put in the "sticky" in the first place.

Thx for the move Inj. Well the items here that would have helped others is that once all the lines are disconnected below they can be worked up to the access hole by a little pushing and pulling back and forth a few times. This would have saved others from cutting through were the metal is thicker (metal doublers each side of the trap door hole). And that tank clip has to be worked off the lines too.:uhoh:
Also it would be nice to post how the line disconnects come apart just by hand - pinching the plastic tabs in (and twisting the line). I would have saving beginners like me $40 and some headaches.:bang:

Anyone know where that hard plastic O-ring came from?
cardo0:shrug:

Cut mine today, My fuel level sending unit had quit and needed to be replaced. I decided while it was out to drop in a new pump as well. Local chevy dealer quoted me $535 to replace it. RIGHT!
I dig doing it myself.

So, I've not really done any metalworking stuff before, but this option seems really preferable than having to drop the tank...

I found a piece of sheetmetal at Lowe's for like $10.00, that I could cut the access door from... I've also got access to some heavy duty tin snips..

The part I am concerned about is properly creating the access door and sealing it up right.
Can anyone here go into a little more detail about this? What other things do I need?
What kind of screws would I need to get?
What type of sealant would be best to use for the door... I don't want to end up with carbon monoxide or fuel fumes leaking into my car.

Thanks a lot!.