1st time to track w/ new setup, input please - prep, launch, etc

New setup. I haven't raced in a couple of years, and last time, it was a different, but similar car. The only thing I'm using from THAT old car is the shortblock. I went 12.59 @ 113 with a miserable 2.1 60' on regular street tires. This car is similar, but with all suspension mods listed, and a WAY better top end, also going with slicks now.

Lt1 383, ported heads bigger valves, injectors, long tubes, borla... etc
T-56
spec Stage III clutch
STOCK driveshaft
Moser 12 bolt 4.11's
MT E/T streets 26x10.5x16 (mounted on factory 16x8s) Tubeless, and NOT bolted to the rim -maybe i'll get rim spin inside the rubber? -dont' really know what to expect

welded Subframe connectors
tubular lower rear control arms (adjustable, however I wouldn't know what is a good way to adjust them)
L&M tubular PH bar
BMR tubular torque arm
Poly bushings and mounts throughout
welded lower control arm relocation brackets (which set of holes to use? bottom, or top? - where to start, how to know if one is better than the other?
FACTORY SPRINGS AND SHOCKS

I'm not looking for the typical 'how fast will my car run' type of reply. I am hoping for 11.80s or 11.90s. If i do better than that great.

What I am looking for is some input on launching techniques, burnout guidlines, psi range to start with. I am most worried about the factory steel driveshaft exploding. heh. I am also worried about 'what if the tires come off the ground, i may freak out and let off' ALSO worried about the fact that while I have a tubular torque arm and all is good there, I am still utilizing the factory torque arm mounting bracket, which is kind of a flimsy looking piece that attaches to the tranny tailshaft. Any input there is good too!

Any advice, input, or anything would be helpful as I do not want to completely destroy my car on the 1st pass.
thanks guys!

I would start with 18psi in the tires and move down. Do a long burnout followed by dumping the clutch. I would drop the hammer at 5k otherwise the car will mostly likely bog because of that ST clutch.
Are your suspension products adjustable?
I would put the lca brackets in the lower holes for more "bite".
The factory ds is a decent piece, its a hell of alot stronger than an Ls1's alum. one. But it could still break so im with you on that concern.

Its going to be a lot of trial and error and fine tuning to get the car to come off the line well. Espically with a 6spd, so be patient. That high 11 second slip may not come in the first 10-20 track passes.
Next, you have a entire aftermarket suspension aside some shocks. Pick up a set. Some qa1's would work wonders for your 60fts. good luck

The lower rear control arms have adjustable rod ends.. the rest it not adjustable. From what I read the BMR torque arm automatically puts you at a -2* pinion angle (supposed to be the best angle?) I don't know what else I could achieve with the lower control arms. They are set to a factory length right now.
thanks!

are they the roded ends? Mainly for handling and cornering. Need more info to give more advice. What top end parts are you running?(h+c)

They are the spherical rod ends on one side, and the other threads into the 'body' of the control arm. they sound like **** on the car b/c they're is no rubber or poly bushing to them, so they rattle and make a lot of noise, kinda irritating, but that's another story

Heads and cam

stock castings, fully ported by a friend of mine, who, for several years, that's all he did was port Lt1 heads, they're awesome! I never got them bench tested so i can't tell you flow #'s sorry.. manley race-flo valves 1.56 & 2.00. Crane cams 10308 spring and retainer kit. GM 847 cam, CC 1.5 roller rockers. Flat top pistons, heads milled .010, supposed to yield a 12:1 compression ratio with the rest of my setup. BBK 58mm throttle body, SVO 36# injectors, Walbro 255 pump, Pacesetter longtubes 1 3/4" (for off road) no cat, borla cat back. 90% of this stuff is new since the last time i was at the track a few years ago. Plus i've got slicks now, so I'm hoping to obliterate that 12.59 timeslip.

I guess that was probably a little more than you needed to know, but I hope that answers any further questions :)
thanks

Ya those are the lca's that i was talking about. They are not the best for drag purposes but wont hold you back any.
The biggest thing you are going to deal with is bogging or spinning. Which will be a very fine line. Launching the car is going to be a trial and error type deal.
Start at 5k dumps and see what happens. Adjust from there.