no rear brakes?!

So I figured it was time to get my LS1 brake swap done so I started with the rears. All new rotors, Hawk pads, flushed the brake fluid with ATE SuperBlue. Pedal is firm, with the rear jacked off the ground and it in drive I cant even bring the wheels to a complete stop! They slow down applying pressure but dont come to a complete stop. The brakes are bleed not sure what to check next? Could it me a vacuum issue? I do have an LE2 cam which is a rather large cam. Where I do begin?

Mine does the same thing. I have seen this problem posted several times but I have never seen an answer. Maybe someone will have a fix this time. The funny thing is I bought my car new and it wore out the rear pads in 20000 miles but the fronts were fine now the rears don't seem to do anything.

Was the "ABS INOP" light on before you started the project? That can cause problems with the ABS motors, interfering with bleeding the brakes. Did you bleed the ABS unit and all 4 calipers?

Trying to stop the rear wheels, when the front wheels are already stopped, may be confusing the ABS computer. Does the "LOW TRAC" light come on when you try and stop the rear wheels? Do you feel the pressure fluctuations from the ABS when you are pushing on the pedal? Does the "BRAKE" light come on when you step on the pedal? Can you stop the rear wheels with the E-brake?

Was the "ABS INOP" light on before you started the project? That can cause problems with the ABS motors, interfering with bleeding the brakes. Did you bleed the ABS unit and all 4 calipers?

Trying to stop the rear wheels, when the front wheels are already stopped, may be confusing the ABS computer. Does the "LOW TRAC" light come on when you try and stop the rear wheels? Do you feel the pressure fluctuations from the ABS when you are pushing on the pedal? Does the "BRAKE" light come on when you step on the pedal? Can you stop the rear wheels with the E-brake?

The ABS INOP was not on before I tore it apart nor is it on now. I did not bleed the ABS unit or the front calipers yet as I have yet to swap them out.

The Low Trac light does come on, but I do not feel any fluctuation from the ABS. Brake light does not come on either, havent tried stopping it with the E-Brake yet but I will give that a try.

In my Chiltons, the first step for bleeding the brakes is to "home" the ABS motors. The second step is to bleed the ABS unit. Then proceed to the individual wheels calipers.

In my Chiltons, the first step for bleeding the brakes is to "home" the ABS motors. The second step is to bleed the ABS unit. Then proceed to the individual wheels calipers.

Don't you have to have a Tech-2 scanner to "home" the ABS motors and to bleed the ABS unit?

Depends.. Chiltons has a procedure that is supposed to work to home the motors in some instances. You don't need the Tech to do the bleeding.

Depends.. Chiltons has a procedure that is supposed to work to home the motors in some instances. You don't need the Tech to do the bleeding.

You don't need a Tech-2 to bleed the ABS Module ?

I don't have access to my manuals but if I remember correctly you start the car let it run ten seconds and shut it off. Do that three times. Don't push the brake pedal while doing it. Then bleed the brakes normally starting with the abs module. This only works if there aren't any abs codes set and I'm not sure if it works on traction control cars.