Clutch Master leaking fluid

acre
02-02-2008, 01:20 AM
So I noticed my clutch fluid reservoir was bone dry the other day (damn, I always forget to check that), so I filled it up, and drove around a bit, and the clutch felt fine. When I parked and got out I noticed my left foot had fluid on it. When I got home and checked it out, its leaking from where the clutch pedal push rod goes into the master. I presume I'm going to need a new master and this wasn't caused by putting too much fluid in, or running it dry. Is that correct?

So is this a job that a relative n00b can handle? I've got a chiltons and it seems somewhat straight forward, I wish they had more/better pictures, and I'm not sure how hard its going to be to get the thing out and back in though. I did some searching here, and it sounds like getting the U-bolt to mount it, and the clip on the pushrod is the hard part. Anything else I should be aware of?

If I get this done at a shop what would I expect to pay?

I think that this is the part number I need 12559912. Should I go with one from gmpartsdirect.com or should I get one at Autozone or O'Reillys?

The car is in the sig and has about 66K miles on it.

Oh yeah, anyone what brake fluid does to nice leather shoes? I think I'm going to be finding out... :(

acre
02-03-2008, 11:42 PM
Bump

Can anyone help me out here? Should I go with the GM part, or something from autozone?

94CamaroZ28
02-04-2008, 02:03 AM
GM part for sure. It's a pain in the rear to get the ubolt in place, but otherwise easy enough. just be sure to bench bleed it beforehand, and there IS a special tool you'll need for where the hose goes into the trans.

That PN is a current one. Call to place the order, and verify that IS the Fbody PN, Corvette (Y body) is different.

My concern is more that the leak is also at the slave, inside the trans. I'd do this: replace master yourself, (do drill mod - search on this) and bench bleed over the sink. As long as you bench bleed to clean fluid no bubbles, if the slave is good (probably is if the clutch works), when you get the master in palce you'll just need to pop the hose back onto the fitting at the slave. Look closely at the way the hose runs first, and try to remember what ways you had to twist things coming out. It'll go back in placeb easily IF you twist and turn it exactly the way it came out. Then stop, stretch your back a few times, check the car is solidly on the jack stands, and get ready to get the U-bolt in place. It might go the very first time, or you might fight with it for an hour. A helper inside with a good light helps to watch the ends and to get a nut on when it does go. Patience is the key here.

You may be fine once the master is in, or it might need a slave. If it needs a slave... you need a shop.

You should NOT have to bleed at the slave IF you bench bleed first.

A shop would charge 2-3 hours for this job, and do it in 15 minutes if they have done it numerous times.

acre
02-05-2008, 03:05 AM
Thanks for the info!

One more question... I did some searching around on the drill mod, and there is some talk about it only being for LSx cars, is that true? Is the part number I listed the correct part for the LT1? I would think that they might be the same but Im not sure after doing some searches.