4.10's and A4 how do you like them?

I Just got a killer deal on 4.10 ls1 rear and just wondering how it will do? Pro's and con's.

Pros is that it'll probably be faster.
Cons is that it'll probably be slower in the 1/4 than it would be with 3.73s and get worse mileage.

Pros - quicker acceleration

Cons - poor gas milage, weaker and more prone to breakage than other ratios, you'll spin worse off the line and at low speeds.

My TBSS has 4.10s stock. Even w/ the large 20" wheels and tires that come stock IMO the RPM are too high @ highway speeds. It is fun accelerating though.

Do you think I will be able to get some traction with 26'' x 10.5'' x 16'' LT
MT drag radials? How about on nitrous? And will it be bad if I Finish the quarter mile in OD?

Do you think I will be able to get some traction with 26'' x 10.5'' x 16'' LT
MT drag radials? How about on nitrous? And will it be bad if I Finish the quarter mile in OD?

You should get decent traction. MT drags are good, I've heard. You won't be spraying on your launch so that should change. And yes, it'd be very bad to finish the 1/4 mile in OD. Which is why for a track car 4.10s are a bad idea.

Sell that rear for the same amount it would cost to get 3.73s in your current rear.

Why wont I be spraying out of the hole? And could I get a bigger cam and wind it out in 3rd?

Cause you aren't supposed to spray in the lower RPMs. And no. If you could more people would talk about 4.10s being optimum instead of 3.73s. More power only means that you'll get there quicker, and therefore shift earlier.. not later.

I can damn near spary out of thw hole now with the 273's with the 3000 stall I can spray about 10" out. I wish I had 373's but life delt me 410's So i guess I'll just have a fun street car.

It's not that you can't spray out of the hole, it's that you shouldn't.

Pros is that it'll probably be faster.
Cons is that it'll probably be slower in the 1/4 than it would be with 3.73s and get worse mileage.

You should get decent traction. MT drags are good, I've heard. You won't be spraying on your launch so that should change. And yes, it'd be very bad to finish the 1/4 mile in OD. Which is why for a track car 4.10s are a bad idea.

Cause you aren't supposed to spray in the lower RPMs. And no. If you could more people would talk about 4.10s being optimum instead of 3.73s. More power only means that you'll get there quicker, and therefore shift earlier.. not later.

It's not that you can't spray out of the hole, it's that you shouldn't.

The only thing that you've said that makes any sense is to NOT shift to OD in the 1/4.
People don't spray out of the hole because of traction or low rpms. With traction and a loose converter there's no reason not to spray the launch.
He could change the cam AND related valve train components to increase the engine operating rpms and here's the biggie just change to a taller tire for the track sessions. My car has 275-60x15 Hoosier drag radials and 4.10s on it and goes the numbers in the sig going thru the traps at about 6400 rpm.

Thats what I have been hearing, I will turn around 6300 in third N/A and 6400 on nitrous.

The only thing that you've said that makes any sense is to NOT shift to OD in the 1/4.
People don't spray out of the hole because of traction or low rpms. With traction and a loose converter there's no reason not to spray the launch.
He could change the cam AND related valve train components to increase the engine operating rpms and here's the biggie just change to a taller tire for the track sessions. My car has 275-60x15 Hoosier drag radials and 4.10s on it and goes the numbers in the sig going thru the traps at about 6400 rpm.

Yes, I know. He never said raise the shift point. He said add a cam. And I know low RPMs is why you aren't supposed to launch with nitrous, perhaps if you read my post you'd see that I said this already. Everything has made sense.

Anyway I got the 4.10's and I'm running them! What would be a good cam for my setup? Car in sig but replace 273's with 4.10's and mickey thompson et streets

The only thing that you've said that makes any sense is to NOT shift to OD in the 1/4.
People don't spray out of the hole because of traction or low rpms. With traction and a loose converter there's no reason not to spray the launch.
He could change the cam AND related valve train components to increase the engine operating rpms and here's the biggie just change to a taller tire for the track sessions. My car has 275-60x15 Hoosier drag radials and 4.10s on it and goes the numbers in the sig going thru the traps at about 6400 rpm.

I agree with everything except the problem of shifting into overdrive in the 1/4. If you have a tranny built for it, it's not a problem. But od is real tall, and there's a pretty lage gap between 3rd and 4th. If you don't have the power to pull it, you may not see any gains. I'm set up with 4.10's and a A4 and cross the line in od every time. But I don't gain much in od n/a, but on the bottle it's a different story.

And I know low RPMs is why you aren't supposed to launch with nitrous,
3500 stall! problem solved.



All in all I'd prefer a gear a little taller like a 3.73 or 3.90. But with my car I'm stuck with the 4.10's until I swap a different axel in. If your geting the gears at a deal or free, go for it.

Pros is that it'll probably be faster.
Cons is that it'll probably be slower in the 1/4 than it would be with 3.73s and get worse mileage.
:confused: :think: Say WHAT?!?! :irk: Do you know what you speak?! You're contradicting yourself. 4.10's will be faster than 2.73's, but slower than 3.73's??? Ok, keep smokin' the crack pipe! And as for mileage? BARELY worse than 3.73's, BARELY. I ran BOTH 3.73's AND 4.10's behind the A4 in my car ... and I daily drive my Camaro ... I think I'd know ;).

Pros - quicker acceleration

Cons - poor gas milage, weaker and more prone to breakage than other ratios, you'll spin worse off the line and at low speeds.
I "slightly agree" with your cons, but again, the mileage difference (even compared to 2.73's) is not what one might expect, the "weaker than" issue exists for pretty much ANY 10-bolt, regardless of ratio! ;) And spinning more off the line??? Try less! :thumb: Well, maybe not "less", but it's "different". If/when you get 2.73's spinning, the tires are spinning FAST. Break the 4.10's loose, and while YES, the tires are spinning, they're actually not spinning that "fast" (esp. while you're still in 1st gear) due to the very low ratio. It actually doesn't take long to get under control, hooked up, and on your way. Even on STREET tires, I dropped from running ~2.1 60' times down to ~1.9's going from 2.73's to 4.10's.

You should get decent traction. MT drags are good, I've heard. You won't be spraying on your launch so that should change. And yes, it'd be very bad to finish the 1/4 mile in OD. Which is why for a track car 4.10s are a bad idea.
Good traction, esp. w/MT ET Streets, I agree with you. Spray isn't my thing, so I can't comment. Bad to shift into OD during run? Again, I agree. But 4.10's being BAD for a track car?!?!? :think: :no: Like Al pointed out above, you have engine RPM and tire height to play with to gain you extra speed out of 3rd gear, in which case you can get motoring pretty darn quick before you're shooting for 4th ;). And if the car is near stock? Then there's no concern of over-running 3rd gear either.

I LOVED the 4.10's behind my A4. Preferred them to the 3.73's I had.

With the added mechanical advantage, it takes less power to spin the tires and keep them spinning. In other words if you spin launching at 4k w/2.73s then you'll spin as easily at 2k w/4.10's. Then also from a roll, if you spin when you drop down at 20 mph under full throttle, you'll do the same with less throttle at the same MPH.

I ran a car w/4.11 gears for 12 years and then went down to 3.08s for 6 months before I sold the car. W/the 4.11's I had much more traction problems than the 3.08s. On street radials I lost a race to a bro-n-law's stock 5.0 because I had no traction in first or 2nd. Granted I made up most of the ground by the end of the run, but he was still ahead. After I went down to 3.08's we were together off the line but I edged ahead by a car length. This was on the same type of tires. With 3.08s it would spin some in 1st and chirp in 2nd where as before w/4.11s one it broke loose it would spin all through first and most of 2nd unless I feathered it. I also watched a friend go from the 3.42's in his 70 Z to 4.10's and he went slower because of the lost traction. Now once he put some soft tires on, it was a different story. That was also my case. When I went out racing I'd put my soft tires on and still didn't hook great, but it did run much quicker.

The weaker than issue stems fro the fact the more 4.10 geared 10 bolts grenade than others with more radical combos pushing them.

Maybe it's one of those "case-by-case" problems. I found that my traction issues were very, very minimal, and in fact, much easier to control. And from a roll?? Unless I was doing ~20 mph or less (hardly ever) then the tranny would only kick down to 2nd, and wouldn't spin anyway (because it shifted out of 1st so quickly in the first place).

I know that for me, the 4.10's had many of the same (approx.) speed-based shift points as 2.73's, except just 1 gear higher/lower (depending how you look at it). Basically, it was like adding an extra "low gear" to the 2.73 setup, and everything else stayed the same, except the acceleration was greatly improved for each window of speed.

The 4.10's lasted for dozens of hard launches in my car, on street tires and DR's, UNTIL I got into doing road racing ;) ..... they didn't like the hard, constant "on again, off again" of the road course! :lol: Neither did the 4L60E!! ;)

But what I'd like to point out is this: if someone thinks that traction will become an issue with 4.10's? or mileage will suck?? It will be very similar with 3.73's. 4.10's just improved the launch and acceleration that much more, and I really did prefer them. But 3.73's aren't "the perfect ratio" while a 4.10 is "way too much", as many people seem to claim. To be honest, it really depends on your setup, and what you're looking to do. 3.42's are really a "perfect" gear in a lot of cases too! ;)

:confused: :think: Say WHAT?!?! :irk: Do you know what you speak?! You're contradicting yourself. 4.10's will be faster than 2.73's, but slower than 3.73's??? Ok, keep smokin' the crack pipe!

Ok, dude. In plain english. A 4.10 rear will make your car accelerate faster, but since you will most likely shift into OD pre 1/4 you will be slower than 3.73s in the 1/4... unless you make a lot of changes just to do so.... but then again, if this is SO EASY to do, then why doesn't everybody agree with YOU?

I didn't contradict myself, you just can't comprehend.

Well I already have 4.10 rear just waiting to go in so I will know first hand how they work. As for shifting into overdrive int he quarter I can just up my tire size and gain mph.

No matter what rear you go with, it'll be faster than what you have now, and that's all that matters.

I went with a 3.42 rear and gained a few cars on my brothers car from my factory 2.73s

Ok, dude. In plain english. A 4.10 rear will make your car accelerate faster, but since you will most likely shift into OD pre 1/4 you will be slower than 3.73s in the 1/4... unless you make a lot of changes just to do so.... but then again, if this is SO EASY to do, then why doesn't everybody agree with YOU?

I didn't contradict myself, you just can't comprehend.
Actually, I CAN comprehend ;). You didn't exactly make your point clear when you first stated that 4.10's would be slower than 3.73's (that's like saying a car with nitrous is slower than one without, but forgetting to mention you meant under a specific circumstance, ie: the bottle is disconnected, therefore the car w/nitrous is heavier than the one without! :p).

I would ASSUME that if a person is setting their car up, they would optimize what they've got. What person would choose to cross the 1/4 mile in OD if they had the option not to? With my otherwise stock LS1, I was crossing the line doing ~107 mph, still well under the red-line, and in 3rd gear :shrug:.

If/when you start modding to go FASTER than the limit of 3rd gear, chances are you're starting to get into more serious motor work. If you've done so, but neglected upgrading your valvetrain, then that's your own fault. Otherwise? You've got the ability to hold 3rd gear across the line and rev higher than ~6000 RPM (ie: ~6500, which can help get you upwards of ~120 mph).

Then as others have mentioned, taller tires will get you more speed again, still in 3rd.

But back to a relatively stock car, you won't hit 4th, so then 4.10's will still be faster than 3.73's :thumb:.

I did make it clear. If you can comprehend as you say you did then clearly you just didn't read.

I did make it clear. If you can comprehend as you say you did then clearly you just didn't read.
:rolleyes: Buddy, what is your deal?! Really, I'm not trying to be a dick here, but you did NOT make yourself clear. Not until you posted this did you make your point:
Ok, dude. In plain english. A 4.10 rear will make your car accelerate faster, but since you will most likely shift into OD pre 1/4 you will be slower than 3.73s in the 1/4...

..... initially you simply said: ...it'll probably be slower in the 1/4 than it would be with 3.73s and get worse mileage.

What didn't I read that you allegedly said that would have made me understand what you meant until/unless you posted your "in plain English" response????? :shrug:

Anyway, I do understand the basis for your opinion that 4.10's may be slower in the 1/4 than 3.73's if one were to hit OD. I guess that's a circumstantial issue. And if 4.10's are so bad for the 1/4 mile, then why do so many guys run them with their M6's?? How many people do you think shift into 5th in the 1/4 mile? :shrug:

I have 3.73 and i can not get traction until second gear so i think the 4.10 will just be a waste in gas and in performance. Automatic in our car have such a steep first 3.06 that it just doesnt make much sense to go to 4.10 gears. Just my .2

And if 4.10's are so bad for the 1/4 mile, then why do so many guys run them with their M6's??

The M6 gearing is totally different. We were talking about A4s.

Common knowledge:
Optimal Gears for A4: 3.73s
Optimal Gears for M6: 4.10s

It's "common" for a reason.

:rolleyes: Buddy, what is your deal?! Really, I'm not trying to be a dick here, but you did NOT make yourself clear. Not until you posted this did you make your point:

My deal is EVERYTHING said to you in the post you speak of was already said in the first page of the thread. Had you read everything you would see this.

I said nothing new in that post, just REPEATED what I had already said.

You say I'm not making sense, I say you never read what I typed past my very first post on the first page. It's pretty cut and dry.

I'm not trying to argue, I just don't like when people pull "facts" from a thread about what someone has or hasn't said based off of SKIMMING.

LSWHO have you had 4.10's in an A4 car?

The M6 gearing is totally different. We were talking about A4s.

Common knowledge:
Optimal Gears for A4: 3.73s
Optimal Gears for M6: 4.10s

It's "common" for a reason.

Optimal for what?

I think you mean is it's most people's opinion that those gears are the best compromise for a street/strip car.


Also lack of traction is not a reason to pick 3.73's over 4.10's. Thats like saying a car with a blower is slower because it has a traction problem. It's not slower, it just needs slicks.

Here's my first hand experience with my car and my weenie cammed n/a combo...With 3.73s and 275 50 R15 M/T radials (26" tall) I went 11.36 @ 119.75 with a 1.55 60'. When I switched to 4.10s and 275 60 R15 M/T radials (28" tall) I went the numbers in my sig...I was crossing at 6000 now, with the 28s and the 4.10s I'm at 63-6400 thru the traps...Both runs were made in similar weather conditions...

I highly recommend A4s to go with 4.10s if they switch to a 28" tire...I had the 4.10s in before I went with the 28s and it was hard to hook out of the hole...28s and 4.10s in an N/A A4 seem like the hot ticket...and I drive the thing everywhere...

--Alan

The M6 gearing is totally different. We were talking about A4s.
A4 - 3rd gear = 1:1
M6 - 4th gear = 1:1

Since this whole debate is regarding the speed/RPM/gear at which a car would be crossing the line at, then it's a completely valid and accurate comparison. If 4.10's are "too much" gear for an A4 since you're crossing the line in over-drive, then they're equally "too much" for an M6 based on your logic/reasoning. But my point (and you confirmed it) is that most guys run 4.10's in their M6 cars, right? :shrug: So then if it's such a "problem" in the 1/4 mile, why is it the gear of choice, and what makes it so different to run an A4 w/4.10's across the 1/4 mile line???? :confused:

I'm looking forward to your answer for that :).

Common knowledge:
Optimal Gears for A4: 3.73s
Optimal Gears for M6: 4.10s

It's "common" for a reason.
You know, "common sense" isn't all that "common" sometimes ;). The "common knowledge" that 3.73's are "best" for the A4, and 4.10's are "way too much" is just typical internet banter, based off of internet "research" (ie: "...everywhere I read, people said 3.73's, so obviously 3.73's are the best gear for A4's ... so now that I know that, any time someone asks, I'll be sure to tell them 3.73's as well") ... and then it snowballs to the point that "everyone knows" 3.73's are "the best", while a few people without their heads in the clouds, who have ACTUALLY TRIED these things in REAL LIFE know better!! :thumb:

Again, from a 1/4 mile perspective, I'd like to know your thoughts on the difference between A4 / M6, running 4.10's :cool:.

When does an A4 shift? When the computer tells it to.
When does a M6 shift? When you tell it to. You can hold out longer in an M6 before it hits the rev limiter.

And why add such high gears only to lower the gears with taller tires? Why not get the right gears?

I'm done here. I don't care.

Thanks Capn Pete For all your input, I'm going to run these 4.10's I'm in colorado so I loose some power due to altitude and can use all the mechanical advantage I can get.

When does an A4 shift? When the computer tells it to.
When does a M6 shift? When you tell it to. You can hold out longer in an M6 before it hits the rev limiter.

And why add such high gears only to lower the gears with taller tires? Why not get the right gears?

I'm done here. I don't care.

because taller tires hook better at the track due to a taller sidewall with more flex to absorb the shock and due to a bigger footprint because the contact patch is longer.

When does an A4 shift? When the computer tells it to.
When does a M6 shift? When you tell it to. You can hold out longer in an M6 before it hits the rev limiter.
Ok, now it's safe to say you officially have no clue! ;)

What kind of car do you drive? A4? M6?? :shrug: With the A4, you can put the shifter into Drive (3rd gear) as MOST people do at the track, and when you cross the line, the tranny will NOT shift into OD (4th) even if the motor has been nailing the rev-limiter for the last ~100'!! So there is NO DIFFERENCE to running the M6 down the track. You will still be crossing the line in the 1:1 ratio, at the same speeds, same RPM's.

I'm done here. I don't care.
Just so you know, I wasn't arguing to be a dick. I just don't like to see blanket statements made (ie: 3.73's are faster than 4.10's) without any supporting info :shrug:. And I wasn't the only person in this thread to question your "opinions/facts". I like to see people get the proper information they're looking for, that's all.

Thanks Capn Pete For all your input, I'm going to run these 4.10's I'm in colorado so I loose some power due to altitude and can use all the mechanical advantage I can get.
No problem dude :thumb:. Hope you enjoy those gears.

because taller tires hook better at the track due to a taller sidewall with more flex to absorb the shock and due to a bigger footprint because the contact patch is longer.

Plus it creates a numerically lower effective gear ratio.

Capn Pete, I hear what you are saying about 4.10s in both A4 and M6s transmissions. However, I feel the reason most A4 guys choose 3.73s over 4.10s isn't for all out acceleration and 1/4 performance, but for a happy medium between going fast and MPG. Of course 4.10s will get you there faster, but simple daily driving will kill your wallet. That is not the case with M6 cars with the double ODs. If anything, 4.10s in an M6 will net similar or higher MPGs because it takes less to move the car. You know this I'm sure. Another thing is I'm betting that 4.10s in an A4 LS1 are more forgiving than in an A4 LT1, in terms of MPG and perhaps performance due to the extra RPMS and better breathing the LS motors possess. Not a valid point, but LT1s and LS1s are apples and oranges. Reason I bring this up is you have an LS1 and we're talking about LT1s. Did you ever run 4.10s in an A4 LT1? Just asking.

So concerning MPG/perf in an A4, 3.73s are a happy medium. I think that's a point LSWHO forgot to make.

Capn Pete, I hear what you are saying about 4.10s in both A4 and M6s transmissions. However, I feel the reason most A4 guys choose 3.73s over 4.10s isn't for all out acceleration and 1/4 performance, but for a happy medium between going fast and MPG. Of course 4.10s will get you there faster, but simple daily driving will kill your wallet. That is not the case with M6 cars with the double ODs. If anything, 4.10s in an M6 will net similar or higher MPGs because it takes less to move the car. You know this I'm sure. Another thing is I'm betting that 4.10s in an A4 LS1 are more forgiving than in an A4 LT1, in terms of MPG and perhaps performance due to the extra RPMS and better breathing the LS motors possess. Not a valid point, but LT1s and LS1s are apples and oranges. Reason I bring this up is you have an LS1 and we're talking about LT1s. Did you ever run 4.10s in an A4 LT1? Just asking.

So concerning MPG/perf in an A4, 3.73s are a happy medium. I think that's a point LSWHO forgot to make.
very good point. LT1s def run out of steam before LS1s.

Capn Pete, I hear what you are saying about 4.10s in both A4 and M6s transmissions. However, I feel the reason most A4 guys choose 3.73s over 4.10s isn't for all out acceleration and 1/4 performance, but for a happy medium between going fast and MPG. Of course 4.10s will get you there faster, but simple daily driving will kill your wallet. That is not the case with M6 cars with the double ODs. If anything, 4.10s in an M6 will net similar or higher MPGs because it takes less to move the car. You know this I'm sure. Another thing is I'm betting that 4.10s in an A4 LS1 are more forgiving than in an A4 LT1, in terms of MPG and perhaps performance due to the extra RPMS and better breathing the LS motors possess. Not a valid point, but LT1s and LS1s are apples and oranges. Reason I bring this up is you have an LS1 and we're talking about LT1s. Did you ever run 4.10s in an A4 LT1? Just asking.

So concerning MPG/perf in an A4, 3.73s are a happy medium. I think that's a point LSWHO forgot to make.
Funny you should say this. I was about to make a comment on a 4.10 a4s probable trailer queen status, until I remembered I said I was already done here. I actually had it all typed out too.

Street/strip vs. strip only is definitely a different setup. I was strictly speaking of dual compatibility cars. My mistake.

My A4 LT1 pulls like a freight train with 4.10s...Went from 119.75 to 121.14 switching from 3.73s to 4.10s...Its all in the combo...My car sees mostly street and long 180 mile cruises and still gets 19-20 highway with 4.10s and a 28" tire...Its all a personal preference..4.10s work very well with my combo and I'm very happy...

--Alan

My A4 LT1 pulls like a freight train with 4.10s...Went from 119.75 to 121.14 switching from 3.73s to 4.10s...Its all in the combo...My car sees mostly street and long 180 mile cruises and still gets 19-20 highway with 4.10s and a 28" tire...Its all a personal preference..4.10s work very well with my combo and I'm very happy...

--Alan

That's not good mileage by my account. You are probably seeing 12 at most city driving. This is what I would call a car that's NOT meant to be driven on the street daily. I am not saying it isn't fast or fun, but gas mileage like that is horrendous to me.

Alan, the important point you make is 'with 28" tall tire'.

And as for me, I vote 3.73 for A4, simply because my car IS mostly street with some track. I don't want to spin the motor the extra revs cruising on the highway.

That's not good mileage by my account. You are probably seeing 12 at most city driving. This is what I would call a car that's NOT meant to be driven on the street daily. I am not saying it isn't fast or fun, but gas mileage like that is horrendous to me.

If you are that worried about mileage then you should not mod the car at all...I'd say a car that runs 11.20s @ 121 N/A on pump gas that gets 20 mpg on the highway is pretty damn cool...I do drive it everywhere and have for almost 13 years...I don't understand the not meant for everyday driving...This is pretty subjective...If you don't like, then don't do it...

I love it when folks talk about going fast and then worry about good mpg...We've come a long way from the days of getting 3-5 mpg and running 12s with the older stuff...But to each his own...I'm all about optimizing the combo for street/strip performance...When I'm worried about great mpg I drive my Subaru...

No hard feelings, we'll just agree to disagree...:)

--Alan

Alan, the important point you make is 'with 28" tall tire'.

And as for me, I vote 3.73 for A4, simply because my car IS mostly street with some track. I don't want to spin the motor the extra revs cruising on the highway.

Yeah Paul...I get it...I decided to try to eek the most out of my set up without taking away street manners...The switch to 4.10s and a 28" tire brought the mph from 119.75 to 121.14 which is pretty cool...And the street manner haven't suffered at all...It would be different if I stayed with a 26" tire...

--Alan

People don't seem to realize how much the difference in tire heights affects your final drive ratio- 1 inch in height is roughly 4%, or more than the difference from 4.10 to 4.0 gears-
Yeah, I know they don't exist, but you get my point-

I used to run 4.10's in a lightly modded LT1 powered Caprice, and it was a ball. Gas mileage just under 20MPG in a car that weighed closed to 1000 lbs more than a camaro. The weight was the real reason to go that low in gears, but I also think it helps the transmission (auto, in my car) from having to work against as much resistance, if you will. The load accelerates more quickly. A real blast on the street, and, IIRC turning about 2800 RPM's at 70 MPH, my comfortable cruising speed. I did the math back then, a couple years ago, and I think the top speed was an RPM-limited 140 or so, not that I ever saw it. Wasn't a problem on the street, and lots of fun to leave every stop sign and traffic light with- could burn the back tires anytime you wanted up to about 35 or 40 MPH

Sorry I don't have 'hard' strip numbers, but as far as a DD, on the street, I would say from my experience, go for it!

Capn Pete, I hear what you are saying about 4.10s in both A4 and M6s transmissions. However, I feel the reason most A4 guys choose 3.73s over 4.10s isn't for all out acceleration and 1/4 performance, but for a happy medium between going fast and MPG.
Honestly? There's very little difference between the two. Really! And even between 2.73's --> 4.10's, my "average" city/hwy mileage stayed relatively consistant ... about ~230 miles per tank usually (about ~50/50 blend of city/hwy). Max mileage on the hwy w/2.73's was ~310 miles, vs. only ~265 w/4.10's. 3.73's got maybe ~275 max on the hwy? :shrug: Not a huge difference, IMO. And like Al was saying, mileage usually isn't of much consideration once you start modding and looking for more performance ;).

Another thing is I'm betting that 4.10s in an A4 LS1 are more forgiving than in an A4 LT1, in terms of MPG and perhaps performance due to the extra RPMS and better breathing the LS motors possess. ..... Did you ever run 4.10s in an A4 LT1? Just asking.
Nope, never owned an LT1 myself, although I have a couple friends with them, A4's and M6's, modded and stock. You're right about their lower power-band though, although to a degree, it shouldn't matter ... quicker acceleration is quicker acceleration ... although in terms of hwy cruising, the higher revs in an LT1 may make even more of a difference?? :shrug:

Funny you should say this. I was about to make a comment on a 4.10 a4s probable trailer queen status, until I remembered I said I was already done here. I actually had it all typed out too.

Street/strip vs. strip only is definitely a different setup. I was strictly speaking of dual compatibility cars. My mistake.
I sure hope you don't think A4/4.10 is a trailer queen?? ;) Far from it. Heck, I think you could run 4.56's with a ~4000 stall and still be street/strip!! :D :lol:

I sure hope you don't think A4/4.10 is a trailer queen?? ;) Far from it. Heck, I think you could run 4.56's with a ~4000 stall and still be street/strip!! :D :lol:

My setup: A4, 4.10's, 26" tires, 3600 stall.
I put ATLEAST 100 miles a week on this setup and get between 15 and 22mpg. Car only see's the track a few times a year.
I guess some of you boys would consider this car a trailer queen....:D