Lightweight Rotors for front and rear brakes?

Anyone know of some that don't have to be purchased with a kit?

I would be looking for ls1 fronts and lt1 rears. Also I am considering doing the c5 big brake conversion on the front so if someone knows lightweight rotors for that size. Was considering drilled but I don't want them cracking on me when I need them but I am not road racing etc so heavy braking isn't the norm for me.

I was looking at crossdrilled to save weight on the rear since the rear does less braking than the front (maybe they won't crack on the rear?) good idea/bad idea?:confused:

Stock LS1 rotors are ~2lbs lighter than most aftermarket castings. You can save 4lbs there.

Stock LS1 rotors are ~2lbs lighter than most aftermarket castings. You can save 4lbs there.

so what you are saying is that the drilled discs weigh more than stock
ls1 rotors? do the ls1 rear discs and the lt1 rear discs weigh the same?

I would really be interested in cutting down rotational weight as much as possible- any ideas?

so what you are saying is that the drilled discs weigh more than stock
ls1 rotors? do the ls1 rear discs and the lt1 rear discs weigh the same?

I would really be interested in cutting down rotational weight as much as possible- any ideas?

I don't know if he's necessarily talking about drilled rotors or not, but I know my brembos(not drilled) weighed more than my stock castings. Either way you might be able to save a little weight by switching to slotted rotors, or drilled, or both. They will also run cooler, but eat up pads faster.
As for drilled rotors and cracking, I have heard some are more prone to cracking depending on the manufacturing process. I know Porshe makes their rotors in a different way to help lower chances of cracking. If it were me, I would stick with a well respected company if going drilled. Braking doesn't seem like the place to skimp. ;)
Also, I wouldn't do the switch to the C5 kit if you're worried about extra rotational weight, seeing as how you would be getting a bigger rotor and all. It does have an advantage of a larger surface area though, and the caliper is supposed to be a little bit stronger.

If you are looking at cutting down on any marginal amount of weight, I would look elsewhere than the brakes. Try yanking the AC out, or going with tubular suspension (K-member for example) or yanking the spare tire. All of these will give you decent amount of weight reduction, unlike going with a thinner lighter rotor that may save you a total of 4 lbs.

The thinner the rotor, the less it will help stop the car as it is the rotors mass that helps stop the car. I have X-drilled rotors with a Bear track kit and it is only for looks as the X-drilled won't help the stopping. Bigger calipers and larger (in mass) rotors will make the difference. Cryogenically freezing the rotors will help make them stronger if you do go the X-drilled way.

so what you are saying is that the drilled discs weigh more than stock
ls1 rotors? do the ls1 rear discs and the lt1 rear discs weigh the same?

I would really be interested in cutting down rotational weight as much as possible- any ideas?

More or as much, usually. The stock casting are too light. Thats why they warp so easily and are so prone to fade.

Stock LS1 are ~16 lbs. My Bendix slotted are 18.5 lbs. WS6store x-drilled are around 16.5 lbs IIRC. Baer x-drilled are over 20 lbs.

If you are wanting very light for drag use you'll proably have to look at something like Wilwood.

As CALL911 said, rotor mass desirable for braking. I'd only run light rotors on a track only drag car. For a street driven car, look to lighten weight elsewhere. Wheels, tires (yes some are lighter than others), springs (Strano springs are light), tubular suspension pieces, etc. This will all equate to more weight saving that the few pounds that you'd shave off of rotors.

as far as cracking rotors any manufacturing process that cross drills the rotor w/o chamfering the hole will be prone to cracking. 90 degree anyting without a fillet is bad on anything under stress most times