Turbo guys - Underhood temps?

Granted I just figured out my timing was severely retarded - as much as 5 degrees atdc.... But my setup get really hot. My dampner was way off and I am running a crank trigger setup. I have a keyed hub/dampner on the way now.

Log style manifolds, crossover from pass to driver side under the oil pan. Turbo is in front of the driver manifold. Logs are 14ga mild steel.

After 1/2 hours of idle time in the driveway I am melting wire loom that is 2-3 inches away from my manifolds. Looks to be impossible to keep plug wires very long. I have wrapped as much as I can with several layers of that extreme temp aluminum tape - But I know that will only do so much. The wire loom around my fuel lines is pretty much gone. :eek:


At this point my coolant temp was finally reaching the 200-205 mark. I am on a 160 stat - low fans always on - high @ 170. It dropped with a short drive though.

I found a local coater with great prices. This should be my next step. He has the 1350ish F silver/aluminum ceramic stuff and then for a few dollars more he can do the black stuff. I think its more like 1700F.

I plan to get my new hub on and see if I can dial my timing in. Hopefully that will help if I stop using my manifolds as combustion chambers.

Anyone ran uncoated and then coated? How big of a help is it on this and coolant temps?

Wow... sounds like its cooking under there. What radiator/fans do you have? Any pics of your setup?

Stock fans/radiator just moved foward... pics coming

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/33088/2337087130100765377S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2337087130100765377hEhrEJ)

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/31627/2070673290100765377S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2070673290100765377FXxNEQ)

http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/32831/2407643820100765377S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2407643820100765377KXtqHz)


Others here if needed http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559124963HcNQyo?start=72

I'm sure my egts where through the roof with my timing so far retarded. A keyed hub will be 90% better. Monday I wll be able to check again.

How have your kits done uncoated RQ?

I'm sure my egts where through the roof with my timing so far retarded. A keyed hub will be 90% better. Monday I wll be able to check again.

How have your kits done uncoated RQ?

So I have 3 kits that are running, one is professionally coated (Roadie), Justin's has the hi temp BBQ paint that has surprisingly stayed on, and mkent had to modify one of my old ones and I think he may have wrapped some stuff. Honestly, I would get it professionally coated.

Guessing the bbq paint is for protection/looks and doesn't do much as a thermal coating? :)

Found one that will do it for $200-250 - Said he needed to see it first to be sure.

Silver or black coating?

Guessing the bbq paint is for protection/looks and doesn't do much as a thermal coating? :)

Found one that will do it for $200-250 - Said he needed to see it first to be sure.

Silver or black coating?

BBQ paint is for looks and rust prevention on the outside. It doesnt create a heat barrier.

I would be very surprised it he does it for $200-$250, but maybe he is cutting you a deal.

Black is supposedly more heat resistant to the silver, but I know of a few high powered setups that havent had any problems with the silver.

I know the black will last longer, but will it hold more heat inside and lower temps more? Or does the aluminized stuff do that better?

I know the black will last longer, but will it hold more heat inside and lower temps more? Or does the aluminized stuff do that better?

Not sure... but your coater should know.

I'll go talk to him soon. Probably shouldn't spend the money right before Christmas.

TY sir.

could always put headder wrap around it the stuff works good lasts about 2 years or so...summit has it...2 inch wide or so and then just clamp it.

could always put headder wrap around it the stuff works good lasts about 2 years or so...summit has it...2 inch wide or so and then just clamp it.
Someone just had a thread in lt1 tech about header wrap, caused a buildup of moisture or something and rusted out part of the headers. I'm coating my hot parts this week.

Yeah you have to paint them first (rust proof) and then wrap them..I did it on my friends car when he put huge headders on it and it worked fine. Where most of the tubing is I don't think there will be too much moisture unless the car sits alot. It's a cheep trick that works...nothing is as good as getting them coated but if the stuff is in the car this can be done to get by till you take it apart and send it out.

Here is the thread if anyone wants to read up...

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556270&highlight=wrap

Something can't be right, I had my timing 10+ degrees retarded, up to 15+ in some spots when I first put the kit on, and never had a high heat issue. I'm running the bbq paint(for looks) that RealQuick put on it and it's holding up good. I even drove home one night, and pulled out 7 of my 8 plugs right after turning it off.(was in too nice of clothes to jack it up and craw under it and pull the 8th one) They aren't any hotter than a set of long tube headers at all!

I did not wrap my manifolds but I plan on doing so (or possibly having them coated) over the winter...if you can, I suggest a turbo blanket too. The pipes from the manifolds to turbo and turbo to down pipe are all wrapped with DEI. I only drove my car a month before i put it away for the winter and will be preparing to tear the motor apart again due to an extreme oil consumption issue (possibly installed the Gapless ring upside down). The underhood temps did seem to be very high, and my cooling system struggled to keep up. Granted, I did not melt anything as far as i know, but i did have an over heating problem on a 90 day here in Columbus. I have stock radiator pushed forward and aftermarket fans which may not even flow as much as the stock ones (i can't seem to find a sure answer to how many cfm stock fans flow).
Definately take any heat shielding measures possible.

I'm not talking about retarding 15 degrees from where its running. IE 40 degrees na and then pull 15 down to 25.

I am talking about firing after top dead center, no timing advance - actually firing with the exhaust valve open.

Ok, so did you get that fixed yet?

Keyed hub will be here tomorow,, if the ice clears lol

Understandable about the ICE!!! Here in KS we got LOTS of damn ice.

Hopefully that will fix your problem though!

I need to get that on there and then find a timing light. I like the crank trigger setup but I was shooting in the dark before.

Just for everyone's info, I took the parts to get coated yesterday, cost is $431 from this place http://www.hotshotusa.net/ They are literally 10 min from my house so it worked out well. I will post pics of the final product next week when it's done. Oh yea, they offer turbine housing coating, anyone done that before and have results?

Just for everyone's info, I took the parts to get coated yesterday, cost is $431 from this place http://www.hotshotusa.net/ They are literally 10 min from my house so it worked out well. I will post pics of the final product next week when it's done. Oh yea, they offer turbine housing coating, anyone done that before and have results?

Alot of people do turbine coatings... typically run $50-100 for the coating.

Alot of people do turbine coatings... typically run $50-100 for the coating.
Yea, I'm thinking about doing it, makes sense if I coat the whole kit I might as well coat that too.

where's your hood latch???

where's your hood latch???

I dont have one

Yea, I'm thinking about doing it, makes sense if I coat the whole kit I might as well coat that too.

Changed my mind, after doing some reading, it seems that a turbo blanket is MUCH better. Gonna save the money from coating and buy a blanket.

Changed my mind, after doing some reading, it seems that a turbo blanket is MUCH better. Gonna save the money from coating and buy a blanket.

Cool. If you are interested, I have a black turbo blanket for sale (T60-T76 T4 turbos). Shoot me an email: jon@lt1boost.net

I got the new hub/pulley on. Its fricken cold and ice is still on the ground.

I started it for a minute. Idle was much better and I tweaked my tune back to 0 offset and a few things. Couldn't take the fumes so I am waiting for at least slightly better weather.

Its fricken snowing now.... but I did go out a drive a little. My tune was wayyy off from tyring to tune it with the timing so far out.

I spent about half and hour on it and have some good results.

Made 6-8# several times for short bursts, still adding fuel because its going lean on me.

Exhaust got quieter... firing with the valves shut ftw.
Runs much better, easier to tune.
The few dry spots of road I found where I could actually lay into it excited me just a little. This is my first time ever driving a turbo fbody and it is simply amazing. The smallish t70 comes on pretty much instantly. I can hold the throttle @ 20% and she makes boost by 3500. I haven't gone wot yet, but my boost runs where only 60-70% and I was seeing boost below 3k. Can't wait to go all out with it.

As far as temps nothing is melting now. Minutes after killing the car I can touch the wastegate and downpipe. 30 minutes later I could touch my manifolds. Thats better than my uncoated longtubes.

I'll be going back to school for Chemical engineering next fall, maybe I can dedicate my time to developing some better coatings for the turbo guys.;)

I've got an idea that builds off of the new(ish) carbon nanotube/ceramic technology that should increase thermal efficiency dramatically.

^^ Just as long as you make it cheap and so I can coat it at home in my garage :)

^^ Just as long as you make it cheap and so I can coat it at home in my garage :)

:uhoh:

Carbon nanotube composites cost around $700 per gram last time I checked, and a specialized ceramic compound wouldn't make it any cheaper. I'll see what I can do though, the more we use this stuff the cheaper it will become. My target market is going to be the aircraft industry, so you can believe that GE will see to it that it becomes cheap (at least for them;)).

This is assuming that I am able to make it work.