bolt broke off in crank pulley

I have been finally installing my cam. I noticed when tearing everything down, that someone put an ASP pulley on the car, so I had to use the 3 bolt puller. When I went to loosen the crank bolt, it wasn't there. :confused:

So I went ahead and tried pulling the pulley off and one of the bolts broke off in the pulley when I was removing it. :mad: How can I get the pulley off now?

Oh, and another question, how bent does a pushrod have to be to make a noticeable noise? I heard a relatively noticeable noise coming from the top of the engine, so I decided to install my new pushrods, springs, rockers, cam.. ect. It was loud when at ~1000+ rpm, only if I was using barely 1% throttle, and cruising. But after inspecting the pushrods, I cant find any noticeably bent at all. Does it sound like i have lifter problems or is it in the lower end?

You've got two topics here and the most important pulley removal I can't answer. However, I can comment on the top end noise. If it sounds like a coffee can full of washers being shaken, that's the normal LS1 valvetrain sound; especially when the engine hasn't come up to temperature. If you have a bent pushrod, you will hear a ticking/tapping that follows the rpm. The pushrods get bent in the M6 cars when speed shifting and the wrong gear is selected or the shift gets badly blown at redline.

If only one of the bolts broke when using the puller, either the puller is crooked or the bolts are junk. You have 2 choices: Drill and tap the broken bolt and use some real bolts, or get creative with another kind of puller. I had a similar experience with a March pulley on a friends car and that was by far the tightest fitting pressed on anything I've ever dealt with. We ended up buying a heavy duty 3 jaw puller, grabbed the pulley on the outside, and used a big ratchet strap (really, really tight) around the jaws to hold them in place.

And the noise you're hearing? Who knows... LS1s make all sorts of "unusual" sounds. All sound similar but are distinctly different only to a trained ear. Maybe it's something as simple as a failed oil pickup O-ring...

well, its not the usual valvetrain noise, it got much louder out of nowhere, and its not just when cold and teh noise picks up temo with the rpm range, but only is noticeable above 1000-1200rpm. I've frequented the boards enough to tell the difference between ls1 noise and a problem, i'm just worried about it being a bottom end problem

Two bolts broke off inside at the same time when i tapped the puller with a hammer. So now i'm stuck with a crap pulley puller that put me out 25 bucks (borrowed from 'o reilley's) I think I should just get it towed and have someone else deal with it.

well I've broke two sockets on this damn thing with a 3-arm puller. :confused: how can it be in there so tight? Can anyone help me here? I even called the midas down the street and he laughed, said "I don't want anything to do with it," then hung up on me. :(

Drill a small pilot hole in the bolt and use an EZ-Out screw extractor.

Well I wound up getting it off. I had to use a big 3arm puller, some wire to hold it together, and a bar to pry at it from behind, but in the process I cracked my timing cover.. This whole cam swap thing is a lot of knuckle busting work I`m finding out. On LS1 howto they don't even come close to expressing how much of a pain in the neck 4 of the oil pan bolts are to loosen, and how impossible it is to get the oil pump pickup bolt threaded back in. Oh, and everyone always says don't ever drop that screw, but I`m using pen magnets for the lifters, so I figured I could be less concerned about dropping it. Sure enough, I dropped it and I heard it roll to the back, but it was very easy to get ahold of with the magnet.

So I just realized I cracked my timing cover while prying the pulley off. Since a replacement is around 60 dollars, would it hurt to JB weld the crack? I know thats a really half ass-ed fix but would it hold up?

I know thats a really half ass-ed fix

If you're comfortable with a half-assed fix... sure ;)

:lol:

Ya I'm cool with that on the timing cover, its not seen anyway. I just want to make sure everyone else thinks the goop will hold up to the temps and pressure without leaving some surprises in my oil pan in the near future

and does anyone know of any auto shops that carry those valvespring compressors that can be used with the heads still on?

Ya I'm cool with that on the timing cover, its not seen anyway. I just want to make sure everyone else thinks the goop will hold up to the temps and pressure without leaving some surprises in my oil pan in the near future

Personally I wouldn't do it. $60 is worth peace of mind.

If you use the Autozone/NAPA rental tool, you might wind-up breaking stuff.


Thunder Racing has a nice tool that can be used for what you're talking about, but it's $130.
http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?action=vshop&vid=3&pcid=109

Honestly, doing a cam swap yourself is too much of a PITA and a headache for me. I'd rather pay someone or do it with a friend than solo.

Well I'm done with most the install, now I just need the springs swapped out. The cam part was the easy one. I don't want to spend 130 for a tool, it might be cheaper to tow it and have someone else do it. Is there anyone on here that would let me borrow it if i paid round trip shipping plus 20 for letting me borrow it?

go to pep boys. they have a valve spring compressor that has a handle, or for under the cowl it comes with a bolt that replaces the handle you use a ratchet on. that is the only only one that works......well. its 25 bucks :D

Buy the $130 tool and sell it when you are done. It was a piece of cake with that tool and an air line hooked to a compression guage line with the schrader vlave removed. I am keeping the tool as I will probably do more in the future...