I just had my clutch replaced and I replaced the slave and master cylinder. When the key is off the car will shift into all gears. When the car is running you cannot get it into any gear without forcing it. Once it's in gear the clutch works flawlessly. No chatter no issues what so ever. Any reason why the car would not allow itself into gear once it is running and have no issues when it is off? Total loss for where to go from here.

 

sounds like you may need to bleed the hydrolic system

 

I bled that SOB for hours man!!! LOL I haven't seen one bubble yet. Any idea on how I would know for sure it was bled well? PM me your number if you don't mind bro. I want to ask you some questions.

 

im actually getting into bed right now, time difference ya know. and i have the actuall gm shop manuals in my toolbox at work, so tomorrow morning i will look up the actuall procedure and send it to you or my num

 

Awesome man! Let me know.

 

throwout bearing

did u remember to remove the boot on the resevior when u filled the clutch fluid? (i'm only asking b/c the first time i did a clutch, i didnt do that)

edit: to bleed the system, if i remember correctly, u take off the slave cylinder and push the rod into the cylinder a few times by about an inch until there aren't any more bubbles coming out.

 

What boot???

 

Please tell me you're being sarcastic?!?!?! He was referring to the black rubber "condom" like insert that goes into the fluid reservoir (it has to be removed before topping up the fluid).

 

ha score!

I'm not the only that now that's done that!

 

LOL

 

You mean that diaphram that goes inside there? Yes it was removed before I filled it. I'm no moron. LOL

 

Car goes into gear now.... put some transmission fluid in it. It goes into gear but once it's in gear it doesn't fully disengage. You can feel it drag when you're at a light in gear like it wants to go forward. The pedal for the clutch starts to disengage with even the slightest pedal movement from the floor. You have to push it to the floor to get it to fully engage.

 

Clutch disk drag probably from the disk being just a tad too thick. If you measure the disk (unclamped) it should not exceed .330" or it will most likely drag some causing egagement/diengagement issues you are describing. The pull clutch clearances are super tight along with the air gap being very small.

 

The more I drive it the better it shifts. It's going into reverse now. I'm thinking it is bleeding itself. Going to check the fluid when I get home from work.

 

Well, if it's getting better by using it, that's along the lines of one of the "text book" bleed procedures:

"...pump the pedal rapidly for 30 seconds..." (I assume that should be done with the engine NOT running ) ... this is apparently supposed to heat up the fluid and try to get any air in the system to make its way to the top of the line, back up into the reservoir . I know I've tried just about everything with my car, and I'm still not convinced it's bled 100% .