What is the best exhaust setup for the most power?

Obviously this question could be answered differently depending on the individuals setup. But specifically for my 95 Z in my sig. I am running 614 RWHP (supercharged) right now. I currently have Hooker LTs, into a Hooker Y pipe, and then Borla Exhaust (middle plate). I have heard that dyno results with numerous cat back systems showed Borla as gaining the most on the same setup cars, but what about the rest? I am guessing Kooks might gain me a few more ponies, but what about the Y-pipe?

Any comments welcomed, but would prefer comments from people who have experience with what they are saying.

What size is your mid-pipe (from the y-pipe to the muffler)?

Its the standard size for a hooker Y-pipe into a Borla Catback. (3 inch)

Ahhem..

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537001&highlight=Proof+of+the+best

Ahhem..

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537001&highlight=Proof+of+the+best

Uh..... Dude?...... Thats good and fine, but your post is refferring to a N/A LS1 car. It is kind of a different ball game for a supercharged LT1. I don't even know that Kooks makes a Y-pipe for the 95 LT1's.

Again, any comments welcomed, but comments from people who have some experience would be preffered.

Ben if you are worried about DB levels Kooks 1 7/8 stepped then int their y-pipe then using a 4" mufflex w/ magna muffler and not the spin tech for choke master. Best bet would be to ask the FI guys. I've got 7-8 mos left man I'm stateside bound. We put McGuire on our list too. :D

Silas, not really worried about the DB levels, just wondering what the best setup for power is. I am sure Kooks are probably the best headers, and I am confident Borla is the best catback, but I am just wondering ideally what the best y-pipe is. It doesn't really matter as my setup is still pretty good, and I think it would be foolish to spend the kind of cash Kooks and a new Y-pipe would cost for the actual minimal gains it would net me, but I am curious none the less.

I will be outta McGuire no later than March, so if you get it, I'll miss ya, but who knows where I'll end up, and being a flyer, and going places, I'm sure we'll continue to meet up. Good luck man.

I've got to buy an exhaust, and beyond Kooks headers I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I'm pretty sure their 1 3/4" will be fine for anything I ever decide to do to my car. I also think I'm probably going to go with the GMMG Catback. But I'm not sure what to do about the Y-Pipe. For all I plan to do to my car, the Kooks Y-Pipe would probably be fine, and it may be the only choice without having one made. According to Thunder racing, the Kooks Y-Pipe go from 3" Inlets to a 2-3/4" OEM style outlet. Is that the case for most Y-Pipes? Is it a restriction? I'm just curious because I thought most Cat-Backs were 3". Do people cut that portion of the Y-Pipe off?

I'm not trying to hi-jack, and maybe I should start my own thread. I'm just hoping to get some discussion going because I need to decide what I'm going to do pretty soon.

I've got to buy an exhaust, and beyond Kooks headers I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I'm pretty sure their 1 3/4" will be fine for anything I ever decide to do to my car. I also think I'm probably going to go with the GMMG Catback. But I'm not sure what to do about the Y-Pipe. For all I plan to do to my car, the Kooks Y-Pipe would probably be fine, and it may be the only choice without having one made. According to Thunder racing, the Kooks Y-Pipe go from 3" Inlets to a 2-3/4" OEM style outlet. Is that the case for most Y-Pipes? Is it a restriction? I'm just curious because I thought most Cat-Backs were 3". Do people cut that portion of the Y-Pipe off?

I'm not trying to hi-jack, and maybe I should start my own thread. I'm just hoping to get some discussion going because I need to decide what I'm going to do pretty soon.


You may have not intended to hi-jack my thread, but you are asking stuff totally different than my question, as it pertains to your car. Please go with your own suggestion and start your own thread. I am still trying to find info on my question with not much help yet.

Uh..... Dude?...... Thats good and fine, but your post is refferring to a N/A LS1 car. It is kind of a different ball game for a supercharged LT1. I don't even know that Kooks makes a Y-pipe for the 95 LT1's.

Again, any comments welcomed, but comments from people who have some experience would be preffered.

I'm just referring to the theory behind it all.. A good Y pipe like the Mufflex w/ a merge collector and a good set of scavenging LT's should work great. But then again, depending on your cam, you don't want the exh to suck too hard w/ the FI and valve overlap.

The Hooker areo-chamber is said to flow pretty well. You may want a little back pressure too.

I'm just referring to the theory behind it all.. A good Y pipe like the Mufflex w/ a merge collector and a good set of scavenging LT's should work great. But then again, depending on your cam, you don't want the exh to suck too hard w/ the FI and valve overlap.

The Hooker areo-chamber is said to flow pretty well. You may want a little back pressure too.

I used to have a Mufflex y-pipe w/ a merge collector before I swapped to the Hooker Y-pipe, and I actually gained a few more HP on the dyno by swapping out the Mufflex.

^ good to know! THat merge Y is supposed to be good. :D

3" is a limitation on heads/cam NA cars. I'd go mufflex 3.5" or 4" or 3" true dual. You may try asking in the FI section also.
As for headers, I kind of like the QTP's.

3" is a limitation on heads/cam NA cars. I'd go mufflex 3.5" or 4" or 3" true dual. You may try asking in the FI section also.
As for headers, I kind of like the QTP's.

It must depend on the setup then as I just said I lost power (dyno proven) when I was running the Muffles 4 inch y-pipe vs. a Hooker 3 inch Y-pipe. It just didn't look right to me underneath as the 3 inch collecters from the LT.s went to a 4 inch, and then the reducer made it go back down to 3 inches. That, and the Mufflex didn't fit underneath nearly as neatly as the hooker did.

Now, you may have a point on the true duals, but thats a bit of work to change, and not what I would ever be willing to do.

It must depend on the setup then as I just said I lost power (dyno proven) when I was running the Muffles 4 inch y-pipe vs. a Hooker 3 inch Y-pipe. It just didn't look right to me underneath as the 3 inch collecters from the LT.s went to a 4 inch, and then the reducer made it go back down to 3 inches. That, and the Mufflex didn't fit underneath nearly as neatly as the hooker did.

Now, you may have a point on the true duals, but thats a bit of work to change, and not what I would ever be willing to do.

duals really are quite easy. Buy the summit kit, and pretty much everything lines right up. Do it with some bullets or flowmaster 1 chambers and you should gain quite a bit of power.

duals really are quite easy. Buy the summit kit, and pretty much everything lines right up. Do it with some bullets or flowmaster 1 chambers and you should gain quite a bit of power.

I already said I am not going to do the true duals setup. Besides, I would definatly loose power switching from a Borla to a Flowmaster.

CHANGE: Comments welcomed if you have specific knowledge of exhaust on an FI setup, or knowledge specific to my exact question.

I am starting to think I should have just asked this in the FI section, and not the Exhaust system section. :bang:

I already said I am not going to do the true duals setup. Besides, I would definatly loose power switching from a Borla to a Flowmaster.

CHANGE: Comments welcomed if you have specific knowledge of exhaust on an FI setup, or knowledge specific to my exact question.

I am starting to think I should have just asked this in the FI section, and not the Exhaust system section. :bang:

well, i do happen to have a friend w/ a F1-sc that gained over 30rwhp by switching from a catback to duals w/ flowmaster 1 chambers.

Otherwise, i think the best way to gain more power would probably be just add a cutout.

3" is a limitation on heads/cam NA cars. I'd go mufflex 3.5" or 4" or 3" true dual. You may try asking in the FI section also.
As for headers, I kind of like the QTP's.

Even 2.5" true duals are more than 3.5" single.

You could also run 3" duals and then reduce them to 2.5" farther back in the exhaust. Just another suggestion, especially if one wants to go over the axle.

You should check with SSANDTA on EFA or maybe he's also here and on LS1tech...He runs 9.0s with a supercharged LT1 396....His name is Jeff..was on Pinks, too, I think...I'm guessing he's running TDs, though...

--Alan

Thanks for the inputs, but you guys aren't listening. I am not going to run true duals, nor do I want to. I just wanted to know what the best flowing exhaust for my current setup would be (keeping in mind I am not wanting to swap to true duals).

Thanks for the inputs, but you guys aren't listening. I am not going to run true duals, nor do I want to. I just wanted to know what the best flowing exhaust for my current setup would be (keeping in mind I am not wanting to swap to true duals).

just pull off the muffler, and put in a xr1 bullet in the intermediate pipe, then have your shop fab up a dual exit or something.

I went with EngineerMike's suggestion for my Catback. I have Hooker LTs into Mufflex 3" Y pipe w/ 4" merge. From there it necks down to 3.5" Mufflex system with a Magnaflow 12909 straight-through muffler with a single 3.5" outlet. According to Mike, this system flows very well. Problem w/ most 4" mufflers is that they are very loud since most are race mufflers. Mufflex has a 4" system but the SpinTechs and Flowmasters are more restrictive than the Magnaflow. But, if you want a 4" system, get the Mufflex pipes and put on your own muffler. 3.5" should be good for your HP level though. Also, if you want dual exits, same side I think, Magnaflow makes something for that also.

just pull off the muffler, and put in a xr1 bullet in the intermediate pipe, then have your shop fab up a dual exit or something.

XR1 isn't a "bullet". It's oval, round, or offset. Though the round (which I'm running) is pretty compact.

Thanks for the inputs, but you guys aren't listening. I am not going to run true duals, nor do I want to. I just wanted to know what the best flowing exhaust for my current setup would be (keeping in mind I am not wanting to swap to true duals).

Run kooks, a bigger y-pipe, and/or open plate? Maybe you could do an electric cutout if you liked the plate sound? :shrug:

CALL911, if you go back to the "best" exhaust thread, and scroll down to post #6, I have pics of my y pipe with merge collector on there. Also, if you scroll through my WebShots, there are more pics of my exhaust. I’m running Kooks 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 LT's, to a 3" Mufflex y pipe with a dual 3" to 4" merge collector (built on the car at Mufflex by Denny) to a Mufflex 4" catback with a 40 series 4" Flowmaster race muffler. I don’t think you can get much freer flowing than that without going to a dual 3” setup.

So you are saying in your previous post that you dynoed your car with a Mufflex 4", and switched to a Hooker 3" and gained power? I find that kinda hard to believe. If you can recall a former board member George Baxter, he was running Hooker LT's to a 3" y pipe to a Mufflex 4" catback going well into the 9’s and over 1200 RWHP. I believe at one time he had the Mufflex removed, installed a pair of bullets with turndowns, redynoed, and gained nothing. If Injuneer chimes in here he will verify that. His car was 383/Vortech YSi if I remember correctly. :D



Nick

Sorry to bring up an old topic, but where are you guys buying your Dual 3"-4" merges' at? I looked at Summit/Jegs, and nothin'...Is it just Mufflex, that makes them like that? (dual 3"-single 4")..

Call911-What did you end up going with?

Staying with my Hooker LT's, 3 inch hooker Y, into my Borla.

And "yes" I did gain power after swapping the 4 inch mufflex out to the 3 inch hooker Y. It never made sense to me to have to go from a 3 inch header, into a 4 inch Y, then through a reducer back down to the 3 inch cat back. I can see if perhaps it was a FI car well over 800 to the wheels, and it followed the 4 inch Mufflex into a 4 inch exhaust, but dyno results for me said I was better off keeping it all 3 inch.

What would help you is the stepped 1 7/8 Kooks LT's, Kooks Y, and keep your borla. Since you do not want to mess with TD's even though that would be the best option, I'd go that route. I recently just bought some Kooks LT's to replace my Hooker LT's. I do not understand why you don't have stepped LT's to begin with???

Wouldn't be surprised if you picked up 10 hp with stepped LT's on your current setup.

Sorry to bring up an old topic, but where are you guys buying your Dual 3"-4" merges' at? I looked at Summit/Jegs, and nothin'...Is it just Mufflex, that makes them like that? (dual 3"-single 4")..

Call911-What did you end up going with?

Here is the y collector that I used for my exhaust. Its a dual 3" for 4".



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLO%2DY300400&N=700+400238+300610+115&autoview=sku



Nick

The Hooker headers I have ARE long tubes. Granted they are 1 3/4 primaries, and not 1 7/8 primaries. I know I would probably pick up 10 RWHP by going with some Kooks 1 7/8's, but at this point having a sound tune already done to the car as it is, and the fact I need to stop dumping money into it, and keep saving for other things.

I am currently getting ready to start modding my Formula, and after that, there is another car I want to buy. If I don't stop modding the Z, these things will never be possible. Not to mention this thread is now very old, and honestly I'm not really interested anymore in considering changing the exhaust. Perhaps years down the road when I have some extra money to spend.

What would help you is the stepped 1 7/8 Kooks LT's, Kooks Y, and keep your borla. Since you do not want to mess with TD's even though that would be the best option, I'd go that route. I recently just bought some Kooks LT's to replace my Hooker LT's. I do not understand why you don't have stepped LT's to begin with???

Wouldn't be surprised if you picked up 10 hp with stepped LT's on your current setup.

ha..didn't realize how old this was...sorry about that man. I must say you've invested quite a bit in your camaro. I'm sure I'd probably get a sick feeling if I saw the total price in money you've spent + man hours. One of the cleanest silver z's hands down I've ever seen.

As for the formula, why not just keep it stock? You've already got a 614hp car, what else do you really need? Since I don't see a firebird/TA ever being made again, why not let it be an investment? That way you get rewarded someday in the future for putting the time and money into that camaro.

Just my .02

ha..didn't realize how old this was...sorry about that man. I must say you've invested quite a bit in your camaro. I'm sure I'd probably get a sick feeling if I saw the total price in money you've spent + man hours. One of the cleanest silver z's hands down I've ever seen.

As for the formula, why not just keep it stock? You've already got a 614hp car, what else do you really need? Since I don't see a firebird/TA ever being made again, why not let it be an investment? That way you get rewarded someday in the future for putting the time and money into that camaro.

Just my .02

Everyone goes their own way, and has their specific ideas and feelings about doing something. For me, having an LS1 that is very capable after just a few mods, seems foolish just to leave it stock. I will have 50 more RWHP by just doing H/C/I and bolt ons in the firebird than when I had my LT1 fully forged, and stroked into a 383 (back when it was N/A) for a fraction of the price. Having a Formula Ws6 (which they only made about 200 of) is a rare car, but I don't ever plan on selling either, so the re-sale value is un-important to me.

I've installed a Mufflex 3 1/2" single with Spintech chambered Muffler behind a Random tech dual 2 1/2" Y with cats. The Chambered muffler was alot of flow restriction for a 383 - D1. Made my own 3 1/2" pipe with a 3 1/2" qtp cutout. That worked. I recently took the "hi_flow" cats out since they were blown to pieces under the D1 exhaust load. ALso, I have actually blown the pipes (Muffllex 3 1/2" cat back) apart @ the clamp joints. I welded 3/8" threaded rod to hold it together. Their band-type clamps do not hold under FI pressure. I'm always changing, modding, and... learning! Glad I got a MIG welder. Now, I may go to a DynoMax UltraFlo Welded muffler (only $80 dollar @ Summit). It's my hobbie!!! Ha. B. (97ss - 383 - D1 - M6)