i need traction!

im running the car with mods in my sig and im long overdue for some suspension mods. im running 255 street radials and DO NOT want to buy drag radials so do not suggest that. i plan on getting dr's on down the road but not yet. my problem is i cannot find traction for the life of me. i spin clean through 1st 2nd and half of 3rd.this is what i plan on doing:

subframe connectors
lower control arms
torque arm
strut tower brace
eibach drag springs
3 way adjusable shocks up front

do you think that will make a significantly big difference? is there anything i left out or you would change/suggest? thanks for any help in advance.

Forget the shock tower brace. Doesn't do anything but add weight in the wrong spot. Make sure you get an adj. tunnel mounted TA. Take off the front sway bar and brackets, if you haven't already. Maybe add some relocation brackets and experiment between the two different settings, and don't forget to check and adj. you pinion angle. And last< but not least, BUY SOME MT STREET RADIALS!!!!!! LOL :D

you know thats what i originally thought about the stb but several people told me it made a difference.. there probably just imagining it. i just bought a new rear with relocation brackets so i should be set with that. i cant take off the sway bar bc its a daily driver and i still want some handling capabilites. but yes i have et drags which will eventually find themselves on my car, shouldnt have a traction problem then :)

Not all street radials are equal. The harder compounds will never hook well. What tires do you have?

The subframes will make a difference, the shock tower brace, not so much. In fact, no difference that I could tell. Took it off, and it's for sale if you know anyone that's interested. ;)

you know thats what i originally thought about the stb but several people told me it made a difference.. there probably just imagining it. i just bought a new rear with relocation brackets so i should be set with that. i cant take off the sway bar bc its a daily driver and i still want some handling capabilites. but yes i have et drags which will eventually find themselves on my car, shouldnt have a traction problem then :)

take that sway bar off and you will notice a big diff in the weight transfer.
as far as handling, we took both our cars and drove them down a curvy 45 mph speed limit road and were able to do 60mph conferrable and when we took off our sway bars the car can still do 15 over the limit no problems, did notice a slight sway but nothing major. If anything unbolt it, do a launch or 2 and take it down a curvy road, but i do think for what you are going to be doing with the car this will help you out, plus its 15lbs off the nose. we also took the front bumper support out, car still looks stock with no bumper sagging another 18lbs

thats 33lbs off the nose and the ability for the front wheels wanting to lift without the sway bar, get a breille bat. for $170 and save another 20lbs

wanna keep going, fiberglass hood over factory z28 is 25lbs, front k-member(approx.$450) is 30lbs

a total of 108lbs is what i took off my car's from and noticed a much harder launch and ET times of 2-3 tenths lower on average just from the front end weight removal

ive been reducing weight and yes ive already noticed a difference in the nose coming up. i guess il skip the stb at least for now and try taking the sway bar out. thanks for the help so far and if anyone else has got somethin for me lemme know

btw if your sellin any of that stuff i said i want let me know

Not all street radials are equal. The harder compounds will never hook well. What tires do you have?

What he said.

Sn8k eater.
It appears that you are basically a bolt on LT1, making maybe around 280-300 RWHP or so. If your traction problems are as bad as you say with that kind of power then your street tires just flat out suck.

When I had similar power 2 years ago I was running some Pirelli Z-rated radials that never hooked up at all, they acted the way you are describing cause they were harder compound.

I got some Cooper Zeon 2XS 275-40-17 tires and the car hooked like a big dog especially when new. Right now I have near 400RWHP with the same tires 50% worn and three years old, I can rev it up to 3.5K and dump the clutch and they will certainly spin some but then hook up and go. I do have the tubular LCA's and tubular adjustable torque arm which do help, I have ZERO wheel hop.

I think you need some better tires. I really like the Cooper tire especially at $130 each.

4.10 gears + 6 speed = zero traction

Tires are your main problem,some suspension upgrades would be good though if you plan on adding more power...which we all like to do :D

Only thing I might add is a air bag to put in the pass. side rear spring.

4.10 gears + 6 speed = zero traction.

Let me respectfuly revise this:
4.10 gears + 6 speed + (power adder or S!@#ty tires) = zero traction.

There are lots of guys who run 4.10's with six speeds and use decent tires that dont encounter "zero traction".

Most here will say that if you are making more than 450RWHP NA or using N2O, Turbo or supercharger then 4.10's will cause "zero traction".

I have no regrets with my 4.10's.

well actualy after putting in my gears the tires spin less.. but its still not good. my tires are not rock hard but not soft either. im gonna experiment with my friends nittos and see how big of a difference it makes. thanks for the help guys and keep it coming if you have any ideas.

btw this is all on the street, which could be a factor in traction.i can definitly see a difference of different types of pavement.

im gonna experiment with my friends nittos and see how big of a difference it makes.

I will listen for a 10 bolt rearend grenading off in the distance. Might want to have the towtruck on standby.

Remove front sway bar
Lower control arms
relocation brackets
adjustable t/a
phb
sfc's
qa1 adjustables w/ either eibach springs or v6 fbody springs if you want to be cheap

I would go in that exact order

Stickier tires
LCAs
Relocation brackets
Torque arm