Who is running a stock cranked stock rodded 355?

I want to know what the capabilities are. I have an S-trim with a pulley that should make 10-11 psi, and I plan on getting AFR 195's when I build the motor. The cam is a 227/239 .560/.577 on a 115 lsa. Will that setup be too much for the stock crank and rods? Will I have any room to expand to maybe a T-trim compressor? Comments on this setup is what I'm looking for.

get forged rods and pistons. the crank should handle it, but the rods wont.

Honestly I agree with gxr. For what you will spend on block prep and new bearings/gaskets/fluids blah blah I would spring for a few hundred more and do a cheap set or rods and a crank.

I hate the old saying "do it right the first time" but the more I learn the more accurate it becomes.

I've got 30,000 miles on my rebuilt stock rods and crank. The hypereutectic pistons are what you need to throw away. I beat on it every day with with 15psi of boost. Make sure you replace the rod bolts with some ARP's.:)

Same here as 97WS6Pilot:stock rods and crank, forged pistons AND 30K!

the stock rods are plenty strong, its the rod bolts that aren't so strong. Upgrade the rod bolts and the pistons and have some fun.

I've thrown 18 psi and made the power in my sig with a single turbo and stock rods/crank. ARP bolts though! I went all forged because I wanted to not because it broke. I ran it almost 2 years.

Bill

I had stock crank, forged rods/pistons and threw my balancer off due to 11 PSI boost and still made 530rwhp/595rwtq. My stock crank handled the power, just my balancer gave way first. Make sure you have an adequate balancer/hub combo for your power needs or you will have a bare block waiting for new crank/pistons/rings etc.like me.:D

I have been looking around at bottom end parts that past couple days and a 383 is more money than I want to spend but I was ready to do it because I thought it was necessary. Now that I am hearing about your combos that are making the same power that I expect to have when I am done I'm tempted to just do the 355 with some je -31cc pistons and put more money into the heads, I'm thinking afr 195. What do you think is the max power that a stock crank and rods can handle reliably?

I would say that the stock crank is a little stronger than the stock rods. But the combo should be able to handle 550 RWHP reliably if built correctly. Many people have done more than that, but you are taking your chances....

I wanna hear some stories of people breaking the stock crank and/or main caps. I'm sure it has been done. Come on people!....:D

I'm also running stock crank and rods. I've been pounding them with 12# of boost for 3 years now!

Stock crank/stock rod 355 with forged pistons a ARP rod bolts and main studs here. It's been built for 3 years and running 9-11 psi with no problems.

-Chris

Sorry to bring back an old thread. But for the cost of ARP bolts and refurbishing the stock rods, would it be better to just get some eagle rods?
Im just throwing around some ideas for when I build my boost motor.

Sorry to bring back an old thread. But for the cost of ARP bolts and refurbishing the stock rods, would it be better to just get some eagle rods?
Im just throwing around some ideas for when I build my boost motor.

You would still want the ARP bolts no matter what rods you use. So now the cost differential is stock rods versus new forged ones.

i was toying with this idea as well, just forged pistons, and stock everythign else, but ill see how the cards play at the moment when its time to throw everything in

When I checked it wasn't much difference. Price of the eagle rods with arp bolts vs having stock ones check, maybe resized, adding bolts.

Keep in mind that the Eagle rods are an "overseas" product. While they make a pretty good rod for N.A. applications, I would think twice about installing them in a F.I. motor, at least one that will see any measurable amount of boost. And as you know, you're always going to want to throw a little more at it down the road.

Keep in mind that the Eagle rods are an "overseas" product. While they make a pretty good rod for N.A. applications, I would think twice about installing them in a F.I. motor, at least one that will see any measurable amount of boost. And as you know, you're always going to want to throw a little more at it down the road.

Piston will break before those rods. Eagle H-beams are proven and have been for years.

i would get forged rods too. Arp bolts and main studs, stock crank. Than everything would till 600-650rwhp. At that time i would want all forged pieces, 4 bolt main, the whole nine yards.
This way you have all your parts are going to fail at the same time./power level. ~no weak link~
I think the stock crank is good for 100-150 more hp than the rods. But than again im no expert. good luck

Well, I guess I shouldnt cheap out on parts lol:D

-24 CC (not exactly sure, around 9:1 comp) forged piston Wiseco, Speed pro etc

5.7 h beam rods, eagle, manley, lunati

stock crank, arp main studs.

Just throwing around some ideas for around 550-600 RWHP with a 76mm turbo.

Piston will break before those rods. Eagle H-beams are proven and have been for years.

What "piston" are you refering to? I mearly said that I wouldn't trust Chinese parts such as Eagle rods in a forced induction application as I feel there are better choices for not much more money. I'm sure they have worked for people...I also sure they haven't for others. I choose to put the best parts I can afford into the motors I build and I'm just offering my .02 of what's worked for me.

I chose to keep my stock rods and get them magnafluxed and rebuilt because I figured if they lasted 130,000 miles they are "Proven." :)

I am planning on just changing out the pistons as well.

Well, I guess I shouldnt cheap out on parts lol:D

-24 CC (not exactly sure, around 9:1 comp) forged piston Wiseco, Speed pro etc

5.7 h beam rods, eagle, manley, lunati

stock crank, arp main studs.

Just throwing around some ideas for around 550-600 RWHP with a 76mm turbo.

I'm running the wiseco pistons and eagle H beam rods(6" rod here tho, left over from my nitrous motor) along with a stock crank and splayed mains. I'm hoping for 700rwhp through my big stalled th400. :cool:

Man I missed the start of this thread. I had the stock rods ground and shot peened, cost $180 with arp bolts installed. They cleaned up the stock crank and hung some light SRP dished pistons. I have about 21K on this set-up, and 95K on the stock parts overall. Power numbers in sig.

I also lost the stock dampner and now have an ATI. The stocker bent on of my stock front LCA's, that lead to some BMR pieces.

Man I missed the start of this thread. I had the stock rods ground and shot peened, cost $180 with arp bolts installed. They cleaned up the stock crank and hung some light SRP dished pistons. I have about 21K on this set-up, and 95K on the stock parts overall. Power numbers in sig.

I also lost the stock dampner and now have an ATI. The stocker bent on of my stock front LCA's, that lead to some BMR pieces.

Thanks for everybodys input, I may just get the crank cleaned up and the rods reconditioned with ARP bolts and main studs. I realy doubt Ill rev it over 6k much if at all.

If the speed pros are the old TRW's you may want to consider some SRP's. If I remember right they are something like 80 grams lighter than the TRW's. Its been about four years since I did the research but I do remember the SRP's beeing much lighter the the CC difference was +- 4CC. I bought them as a piston and ring package from scoggin dickey. The price was good, like $50-100 more than TRW+rings. My thinking was that I hoped that the lighter pistons would help the bottom end hold together longer. Good Luck.

[QUOTE=Flip94ta;5175591]If the speed pros are the old TRW's you may want to consider some SRP's. If I remember right they are something like 80 grams lighter than the TRW's. Its been about four years since I did the research but I do remember the SRP's beeing much lighter the the CC difference was +- 4CC. I bought them as a piston and ring package from scoggin dickey. The price was good, like $50-100 more than TRW+rings. My thinking was that I hoped that the lighter pistons would help the bottom end hold together longer. Good Luck.[/QUOTE

You wouldnt have the part # laying around would ya?

If the speed pros are the old TRW's you may want to consider some SRP's. If I remember right they are something like 80 grams lighter than the TRW's. Its been about four years since I did the research but I do remember the SRP's beeing much lighter the the CC difference was +- 4CC. I bought them as a piston and ring package from scoggin dickey. The price was good, like $50-100 more than TRW+rings. My thinking was that I hoped that the lighter pistons would help the bottom end hold together longer. Good Luck.

I wouldn't buy light weight SRP's for a blown motor unless your going to spin it past 7000.

If the speed pros are the old TRW's you may want to consider some SRP's. If I remember right they are something like 80 grams lighter than the TRW's. Its been about four years since I did the research but I do remember the SRP's beeing much lighter the the CC difference was +- 4CC. I bought them as a piston and ring package from scoggin dickey. The price was good, like $50-100 more than TRW+rings. My thinking was that I hoped that the lighter pistons would help the bottom end hold together longer. Good Luck.

yeah, but speed pros are pretty popular over on TTF. People are pushing them to mid 20 PSI, and some people even had the speed pro's survive when nothing else in a motor did :)

So, for a little bit heavier piston that will not see over 6200......the speed pro's will be fine for my beefy little motor ;)

What did everyone throw in the stock rods for bolts? ARP 2000?