U-joint carnage!

Learned a lesson this last weekend...Don't drive 3hrs to a car show and get talked into taking your car to the track w/out a trailer!
Looks like the u-joint gave lose and decided to take out my umi torque arm :mad:

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/Codypatt1/IMG_2363.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/Codypatt1/IMG_2383.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/Codypatt1/IMG_2372.jpg

that really stinks... I have seen way too many failures like that so I opted for front and rear loops on my Spohn arm. A rear loop would have saved you alot of expensive parts. When you get it all fixed you should research it and invest in one.

What kind of u-joints do you like for our performance cars?

also use solid u-joints not the hollow ones like the ones that broke on your car

What kind of u-joints do you like for our performance cars?



factory gm joints (around $90), or neapco brute force, both of these are solid joints not hollow

They have solid u-joints that will fit a 1350 series yoke? I bought those from NAPA a while back which was the ones everyone said to get for the 1350 series conversion...I will look into getting a rear DS loop but I did have a front DS loop which saved me from more carnage.

BTW~ This was launching at 3500 with nitto's..

Does anyone know if the Denny's DS's come with a solid u-joint?

They have solid u-joints that will fit a 1350 series yoke? I bought those from NAPA a while back which was the ones everyone said to get for the 1350 series conversion...I will look into getting a rear DS loop but I did have a front DS loop which saved me from more carnage.

BTW~ This was launching at 3500 with nitto's..

Does anyone know if the Denny's DS's come with a solid u-joint?

probably, will for sure if you ask for it

Yup, looks like Denny's comes with solid u-joints..I'll for sure be investing in one of those!