High HP Fuel Systems - Q&A (4th Gen)

whats up guys i am having a little hard time trying to set up my fuel system, let me let you guys know what i am doing here big system with
this is for an lt1 engine
A1000 pump
and 13101 regulator
10an feed from rear to front
i have my stock rails modified with the crossover pipe deleted with 8an feeds on the front of the rails on each rail then on the rear of the rails i have 6an fittings welded up for the returns my ? is how do i plumb this on the regulator do i have to run a seperate return line to the rear now or do i just Y the two 6an coming out of the back of the rails going ot the return port on the back of the regulator? thats my ? or do i have to do something else.also the i was told that this regulator is boost referenced 1:1 just hooking up the vaccum is this true?any help that can be given would be greatly apprecaited.
__________________

With that setup I would assume that you are running in parallel. You need to get 13109 it has 2 -6 inlets and 1 -6 return so you can take both rails to the regulator and then one return out back. Your current regulator has 2 -10 ports and 1 -6 return so you would have to buy adapters to get your rails to match. Another way you could do it is y them together and run a 13105 which has 1 -6 inlet/outlet. Only thing I'm not sure about it is running -8 to the rails and then -6 at the back of the rails, seems like it would be a restriction. How much power you looking to make? A -10 feed is pretty healthy.

enough power is what i am looking to make, without lacking fuel or a proper fuel system lets just say i am building big for later somewhere in the 700-800hp(this is why i said BIG BOY SYSTEM) range also i already bought the 13101 regulator so i will have to make this one work with my application my ? once again will i have to run a RETURN LINE all the way to the back or can i just
Y it off to the 6an return port on the bottom of the regulator or do i have to top it off on the regulator and run a return all the way to the back.....

can someone please help as i think i more or less no what i am going to do it but would like to confirm this with others doing the same.

You need to run a line all the way to the back. Unless you want to run the regulator in the tank.

so with the regulator that i have NOW how would i plumb thisthen?€

Based on what you have provided the best thing I think would be to run the -10 feed, then y it into 2 -8 to the rails and then the 2 -6 lines bring to the regulator and then your -6 out to the tank. You can then run a vacuum line to your regulator for your boost reference.

ok its the return part of the system that i am not understanding.....if i bring both 6an's off the back off the fuel rails then do 1 of them goto the regulator????????>and the other to the return line back to the tank?????????????this doesnt make any sense as i would be only returning one fuel rail back to the tank and not both....



--------------------8an out of regulator X -------------------10an feed from tank
[
[
[
6an return on bottom of reg.
l
l y'ed off to bottom port on reg?
6an return /\ 6an return
[ f [
[ u [
[ e [
[ l [
[ r [
[ a [
[ i [
[ l [
\/ Y'ed off 8an to each side of fuel rail
l
8AN FEED AT FRONT OF RAIL l 8an feed at front of raIL
l
l 8an maIN FEED FROM REG.


this is what i had in mind but how will the return work and can i use the factory return line from tank.

Dont know what all that is but here is a link to some pics to help you with it.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481634&highlight=Fuel+Lines

-10 feed to a y block. 2 -8 lines out of the y block into the front of your rails. 2 -6 lines out of the back of your rails and into a regulator and then 1 -6 line out of the regulator to the tank as your return. The regulator is at the end of the system not the beginning. You can run it at the beginning if you want but I'm not sure if you have to run in series or parallel or if you can do either.

EDIT: Found a link to LJ's site. Click on the Fuel System link on the left and then the fuel system for 1000 hp. All those diagrams have the regulator at the beginning.

http://para.noid.org/~lj/

here is how mine is set up, I have a 12 line from my tank to the filter and 12 from the filter to the pump. its -8 from the pump to the Y on my intake. the return is 8 to my regulator witch Im using -10 to -8 reducers to hook up to the A1000 regulator and a -6 line back to the tank.

http://www.streetlethal.net/EFI/IMG_2781.JPG

You have one -6AN line coming off the back of each fuel rail. Attach one -6AN line to the -10AN port on the left side of the regulator, and the other -6AN line to the -10AN port on the right side of the regulator. Attach a -6AN line to the -6AN port on the bottom of the regulator, and run that line back to the fuel tank.

The regulator controls fuel pressure by opening and closing a valve in the regulator, to control how much fuel flows back to the tank.

Putting a -6AN outlet on the rail, when you have an -8AN inlet on the other end, will not cause a "restriction". There is always less fuel flowing out of the rail than there is flowing into the rail, so the outlet can be smaller.

I thought on high HP applications running in series wasn't the best idea because of the pressure/volume differential between the first and last injector? Running in parallel effectively cuts that risk in half.

thanks lethal93ta i wanted to know would i be able to keep and use the stock return line back to my stock tank off the bottom of the regulator like you have your system set-up??

I ran a -6 braided line all the way back. you could use the stock feed line but the stock return is kinda small.

it is but i am working with my stock plastic tank and was going to run a bulkhead off the bottom of the tank but only 1 i was going to run how crucial is it to have a larger line for the return in a fuel system like i will be running can i just use the stock return line off the tank reason being is i didnt want to make 2 holes in the tank.


so now that i have caught the idea will i be able to use the stock return from tank?and is there a fitting from MALE QUICK CONNECT(return fuel line) to 6an i think i have seen it before anyone know of how i can do what i want?


now we are getting somewhere, so let me get this straight the regulator is at the end of the system behind the rails as the fuel flows into the rail first then out the rails to the REGULATOR as i see in your set-up lethal93ta?

i thought the regulator had to be plumbed right at the begining before the fuel entered the rail.

It doesn't have to be plumbed at the beginning, but it can. In the diagrams on LJ's site you can see where the feed goes into the regulator and then the rails. Newer fuel systems actually have the return in the tank so they don't have to run a return line, but I'm not sure what you would do for a vacuum source then if you did that. You could run -10 feed into/out the regulator and then y it into 2 -8 lines to the rails and put caps on the -6 fittings at the back. Of course your return would be a -6 from the regulator to the tank, and most people just use their stock feed line as a return line. You won't need another bulkhead for the return line, just your -10 feed line.

what you posted above how would that work if you cap off the back of the rails there wont be and in and out to the system.

so you are saying in 10 to reg....out 8an to a y to the front of the rails and then just cap off the rear and take the return port on the bottom of the regulator and connect that to my stock or factory return line from the tank? i thought i couldnt do it this way that i would have to have fuel come in and go out of fuel rails?


is there a connector for what i am loking for to use my stock return?

http://para.noid.org/~lj/Fuel/images/fuelconfig.jpg

All of the above configurations are in series. Injuneer suggested the bottom one. In my last post I suggested the top one, except instead of having one -10 line going out of your regulator to one fuel rail, I suggested 1 -10 line coming out of your regulator and then y into 2 -8 lines that go to the front of your rails and plug both -6 fittings at the back. You don't need fuel going into and out of the rails. The regulator, based on pressure will release any excess fuel not used into the return line. Once you have your pressure in the rail the regulator won't let anymore fuel into the rails it will just send it straight to the return. When you do need more fuel it will block the return and send it to the rails for you to use.

On a side note, not to confuse you anymore, but I was always told that parallel is better than in series. There is nothing wrong with running in series, pretty much all factory cars run in series, just my personal preference when running high HP applications.

heres a pic of how i have my pump set up on my tank, Im using the stock feed line on the sender with a -6 adapter for the return.
http://www.streetlethal.net/EFI/IMG_2934.JPG

cool do you have a pic or part number for the fitting you used on the return line up front...?

I didn't recommend the bottom one, and none of those diagrams show the rails in parallel. Parallel means the supply line splits and feeds both rails, and there a return line off both rails (but perhaps Y'd in to the pressure regulator). That is the preferred way to handle large fuel flows. Running in series, as shown in Fig. 2 causes a large pressure difference between the inlet and outlet of the system. The parallel path reduces that pressure difference by a factor of two.

Using a "dead end" supply, as shown for both rails in Fig 1 and one rail in Fig 3 is probably the worst possible approach. You're controlling pressure based on supply, not on what the pressure actually is in the rails. By using the return line to control pressure, you insure that the pressure in the rails never drops below the set pressure.

You have one -6AN line coming off the back of each fuel rail. Attach one -6AN line to the -10AN port on the left side of the regulator, and the other -6AN line to the -10AN port on the right side of the regulator. Attach a -6AN line to the -6AN port on the bottom of the regulator, and run that line back to the fuel tank.

So in this you are assuming a y in the feed line to feed both rails and run them in parallel? Sorry, I didn't catch that, that's why I posted this after you:

I thought on high HP applications running in series wasn't the best idea because of the pressure/volume differential between the first and last injector? Running in parallel effectively cuts that risk in half.

ummm i was going to go with the setup posted by lethal93ta which Y's off the feed and shoots the return back out to the tank.....
would this be running it in parrellel INJUNEER...

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/TUMADRE94/BIGBOYSETUP.jpg


ONCE AGAIN IS THERE A WAY for me to add a fitting which is a male insert to the factory return line to the tank with a 6an male on the other side is there such a thing or will i have to make and ghetto rig my own fitting with a piece of factory fuel rail tubing and 2 males on both sides to use the fittings used in the project snowball article of GMHTP
does anyone have the part numbers to those fittings in that article?

Yes that is a parallel setup.

The fitting you need to connect the factory 5/16 return to a -6 braided line is here:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294924496+4294839052+42948472 75+4294906726+115+4294841768

http://www.nonameracing.se/photos/default.aspx?page=WebImage.ascx&path=/photos/Projekt_Ascona/ASCONA0707.jpg
is enough to feed 8*160lbs injectors to 65% at least, havent tried to run the pumps harder since im running a wet 100shot N2O.
its feed by a AN8 return is a AN6 from aeromotive regulator.

hey anthony the fitting you listed are to join to the factory return line which is PLASTIC will those fitting made for metal or plastic 5/16 diameter tube.

if so do they seal without leaking on the plastic line.

that cool pic lisa the thing is i wanted to totally delete the crossover tube and feed both rails evenly not one side before the other......

I have a single -6AN line from the fuel filter to the back of the engine, an NOS "Y" fitting to split it into dual -6AN lines, into the back of the rails. I took the return off the crossover line, with a single -6AN line back to a Weldon AFPR under the cowl, then a -6AN line back to the tank. Is easilly supports 800 flywheel HP, running a 300-shot of nitrous and a BSFC of about 0.54 #/HR/HP. As you approach 1,000 flywheel HP, using dual returns off the ends of the rails would be a good idea, and stepping up to an -8AN feed.

Supply and AFPR under cowl.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/DCP04234a.jpg

passenger side supply connection.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/DCP04227a.jpg

Return line off crossover, with bung for pressure transmitter on rail.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/DCP04272a.jpg

Detail of connection to crossover line.
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/DCP03319.jpg

Hard to tell its set up for a 300 dry shot - I like to keep it simple...... :D
http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Engine/DCP04253.jpg

looking good injuneer thanks for the detailed pics of your set-up as i am understanding a little better but i am trying to eliminate the crossover pipe up front all together...

If you eliminate the crossover pipe at the front, you would simply add a return connection to each rail (front or back, your choice.... most people feed to the back and return from the front), and run them both back to the AFPR, with one going in each side, and a single -6AN return line from the bottom of the AFPR to the tank.

awesomemly awesome dudes what a thread....


has anyone heard of a FUEL BLOCK that is Cryogenic...i saw them on e-bay DEI makes them for about $100 would there be a gain to adding this to my system as it makes sense to have one.

I understand the idea behind a cryogenic fuel block but truthfully if the setup is being done properly and the return line is flowing as well as it needs to then there shouldn't be any need for one since the systm would be circulating well enough that you wouldn't have enough heat soak to warrant one.

not if the car stays in 95 + degree weather down here......the car will already be heat soaked before i ever turn the system on....

anyone...

Dual -8 feeds y-block is behind the fender well cover and single -6 return all the way back to the tank w/ aeromotive check valve at back of the regulator. 2 filters in the feed and 1 filter on the return. Fuel lab regulator and filters. Not a cheap setup but more than capable of 1Krwhp. I'm running 72lb RC injectors as well.

http://fbodyeurope.org/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=3903&g2_serialNumber=3

http://fbodyeurope.org/Gallery/main.php/v/fbemember/SRZ-aka-Grey-Ghost-Album/P1000127.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

anyting else on the fuel block i mentioned....

bringing it back once more i had one more question does it matter where you plumb the regulator weather its plumbed out the back of the rail or front of the rail?€

all of the set-ups i see here are plumbed going to the front of the rails but feeding from the rear can i feed it to the front of the rails with the regulator taking the 2 6an exits off the back off the rails into the AFPR

this would sorta be a problem as i dont see any AN reducers or busings to use on the AFPR since it has a 1/2 port on the AFPR i dont think they make a fitting from 10an to 6an....

some my main ? is can i plumb the AFPR at the back and feed to the front of the rails?i am just now getting all fittings needed to finish up the fuel system up on the manifold. going to be at least another $150

um....speaking of fuel and all that...how about that tail lamp panel i paid for last month and never got yet? i guess your just too busy to respond to my private messages....but kinda funny you wernt to busy to go the bank and cash the money order i sent...hmmmm..... wtf man?

Isn't there a regulator with ports for feed from tank, feed to rails, and a return port to the tank? Seems like the easiest solution is feed the reg from the tank, split it's output to the two rails, and let the regulator bleed off the excess pressure back to the tank.

What's wrong with this idea?

Isn't there a regulator with ports for feed from tank, feed to rails, and a return port to the tank? Seems like the easiest solution is feed the reg from the tank, split it's output to the two rails, and let the regulator bleed off the excess pressure back to the tank.

What's wrong with this idea?


you need the regulator on the return side so it can keep even pressure in the rails if you have it before the rails your just going to regulate the pressure between the tank and regulator not in the rails.

http://www.streetlethal.net/EFI/IMG_2782.JPG

There are "bypass" style regulators that control the pressure AFTER the regulator. You end up with a "dead end" fuel rail, and pressure control becomes a bit erratic with very high HP setups. Every F-Body LS1 engine has this type of fuel system. The regulator is in the tank. Many high HP LS1 systems convert to the full recirculation rails, with the pressure regulator after the rails, because it provide a much more uniform pressure in the system.

THE FUEL LINES AND REGULATOR SETUP SHOULD BE OK. BUT IF YOUR GOING TO MAKE THAT KIND OF POWER WITH A BLOWER YOU WILL NEED A BIGGER PUMP:eek: WE ARE RUNING THE SAME SETUP YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. BUT WE ARE USEING THE ELIMANATOR PUMP. THIS CAR MADE 572RWHP AND WENT 9.90 @ 139 WITH TH400 AND A 9" AT 12.5 PSI (VORTECH T TRIM) ALSO YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST 85 LBS/HR TO SUPPORT 700 RWHP. AND IF YOU PLAN ON DRIVING IT ON THE STREET YOU MIGHT WANT TO GET A PUMP CONTROLER. PS WITH THIS SETUP WE WERE RUNING THE INJECTORS AT ALMOST 90%DC:eek:

the car is not going to see street for more then 30mons which is what AEromotive says when you do use longer then that time then you will need a controller plus the eliminator pump needs to have a controller no matter what. this car isnt going o see more then 700-800 rwhp FOR NOW..

well had to bring up this thread once more as i have more questions i finally connected all the electrical for the pump in search of leaks i only had one up at one of the welds on the fuel rails but i will be getting it repaired and sealed tomorrow. my question is that when running the fuel rails in PARRALLEL will it hold fuel pressure as when it was ran in series from factory....also i tried powering up the a1000 pump with the power wire that feeds the factory fuel pump and it worked but wasnt pumping fuel pressure like when it was stock you would just turn the key and it would hold fuel pressure any ideas here? i have decided to run a seperate relay and wiring for the a1000 my questions are how large of a relay do i use for the pump is a 30amp relay allright and what guage wiring should i use, i was thinking of using the power wire to the factory pump as my 12v switched source then running a wire from the battery to the relay which would be my 12v constant source and then eithe using the factory ground wire that goes to the factory pump or tapping a ground into the chassis from the relay would this be smart the only thing i see is that the 12v switched power source will also have a relay and fuse i am thinking that this shouldnt be a problem wiring it up the way i stated above? if anyone could help me out on this it would be greatfully apprecaited.

also where are you turbo guys setting FP i set it a factory setting at 42psi with line on as this is what i was told to do.

my question is that when running the fuel rails in PARRALLEL will it hold fuel pressure as when it was ran in series from factory....also i tried powering up the a1000 pump with the power wire that feeds the factory fuel pump and it worked but wasnt pumping fuel pressure like when it was stock you would just turn the key and it would hold fuel pressure any ideas here? i have decided to run a seperate relay and wiring for the a1000 my questions are how large of a relay do i use for the pump is a 30amp relay allright and what guage wiring should i use, i was thinking of using the power wire to the factory pump as my 12v switched source then running a wire from the battery to the relay which would be my 12v constant source and then eithe using the factory ground wire that goes to the factory pump or tapping a ground into the chassis from the relay would this be smart the only thing i see is that the 12v switched power source will also have a relay and fuse i am thinking that this shouldnt be a problem wiring it up the way i stated above? if anyone could help me out on this it would be greatfully apprecaited.

For the first question it will work the same as series as long as you tee the return lines together before the regulator so that your regulating both returns.
For the power to the pump, the way you plan is excatly the method that Racetronix uses with their hot wire kit. 30 amp regulator and 10 gauge wire IIRC.

i have my setup just like shown in the above post on the intake manifold as shown in lethal93ta's post it just didnt hold pressure not even a little it had small leak on one of the welds on one of the fuel rails was sweating some fuel but will that drop fuel pressure right after i disconnect power...and there are no other leaks on the fuel system how long are you guys holding fuel pressure for after you turn off the car when i say you guys i mean the people running big boy fuel systems.

anyone???????

hello can anyone help me here...

My setup loses pressure on shutdown. The Weldon AFPR is not designed to hold pressure on shutoff.

i am running the aeromotive part # 13101 will this regualtor do the same Fred? do you know if other regulators do the same?

cause its exactly what mine is doing right after shutdown it losses pressure drops to the bottom with no pressure whatsoever.

i see its going to be hard to get info on BIG BOY fuel systems up on here as i am getting hardly any advice....what gives..

You have to be a bit more patient.... this isn't a question like what CAI is the best, that 90% of the members think they can answer.

I know I can't spend my entire waking hours on these forums. I don't know if the Aeromotive AFPR's release the pressure. The logical answer would be to ask Aeromotive directly. It might provide you with an answer a bit faster, since we can't meet your demands.

Good luck.

My Fuelab regulator looses pressure as well after the key is turned off. It also takes 2-3 keys to prime the sucker too. :D No biggie. I got a aeromotive check valve in place now so it doesn't instantly lose pressure at key off. The check valve though really shines through when in boost and not loosing pressure.

what check valve are you speaking of do you have a link of it somewhere.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/aei-15107_w.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AEI%2D15107&N=700+115&autoview=sku

awesome so with this the system will hold pressure like stock after its turned off as i found out my aeromotive setup will do the same as what you guys are using on you cars.

i am picking one of these up tomorrow and plumbing it in, if i disconnect the fuel line in front of the pump as i have it sumped to my a1000 will fuel start puring out or just whats in the line will come out and be held back by the fuel pump? also can this be plumbed after the pump and both filters since thats where i have space to put it or else i would have to redo my lines out back?where can it and cant it be placed.

does it matter where i plumb this into my system the only place where i can add it to is after the fuel pump as i already have all my line pre made already.?someone told me to put it on the return side but i am using the factory feed plastic line as my return so i cant add it to there. so i was going to add it after pump but before the fuel filter after the pump.

no put it on the feed side...

heres some tips.
your gonna have to diconnect the system sooner or later, put shutoff valves on your tank.
i would connect the check valve right after your shutoff. if you disconnec there it won't allow the fuel to come out of the line onto the ground and the shutoff will stop the fuel in the tank from coming out.

then your prefilter and onto your pump.


here' my problem. i welded bulkheads into the tank for the feed and return. i'm having cavitation issues when the fuel is somewhat low, especially on hot days in city driving.

whats the best way to tap into the tank without cavitation? our tanks are shaped funny for normal sumps. i'm assuming i'd have to add some baffling inside but that would be tricky, its hard to work in the tank like that.

any thoughts?


i tapped into the factory wire were it meets the body for my relay on/off, ran 10 gauge back from the battery and grounded to the frame. i made the mistake of wrapping my power line around my braided fuel line. i had a fire at the track above my relay. not entirely sure why but have some thoughts.

coiling wire is a bad idea. especially with metal inside, you create point of resistance and some heat.
braided line could also eat through the insulation. bad idea again.

i think between the two my power shorted some how, although my braided line looks fine. i bypassed the relay and was able to drive it home but the wire leading into my tank are toasted.


btw, what size fuse does aeromotive call for on the A1000...it has to be fused.

remember to use a 10gauge ground to the pump, thats a must, don't skimp on your grounds.

pics can be seen in link in sig

Always risky to put "devices" in the pump suction line, between the tank and the pump. Any pressure loss there increases the chances of fuel vaoprization and cavitation. Assuming the fuel is at atmospheric pressure in the tank, once the pressure loss in the pump suction line drops the pressure below the vapor pressure of the fuel, its going to flash to vapor. As the fuel heats up, the point at which it flashes approaches atmospheric pressure. And the fuel in the tank will heat up simply from being pump repeatedly through a recirculation loop. Make sure there is no exhaust heat adjacent to the fuel tank, or adjacent to the fuel lines.

The exit from the tank should not have a sharp edge. A radiused "high flow" fitting is preferred. The suction line should be at least a -10AN. 90's should be avoided. If you have a valve, is it a full-area valve when it is open (e.g. line bore ball valve). Do you have a check valve? You wouldn't logically put it in the pump suction line. Then there's the issue of how fine is the mesh in the pre-filter, and does it have a large enough filter area to handle the flow with minimum pressure loss. The pre-filter's micron rating should not be any finer than the pump manufacturer's recommendation.... typically 100- or 40-microns.

Your wiring should be run independantly in a plastic sheath to protect it.

good points, i wasn't thinking about the pump with the check ball. i haven't installed my check ball yet, i lacked the room and the fittings. i guess straight off the pump would be the next best place, you want to maintain pressure between the fuel pump and the regulator for less down time when you hit the key.

i quite sure the ball valve allows for full flow on the -10 line, i had the cavitation issues before i installed those. i installed those after my pump gave out last year. turned out it was about 6-7 yrs old (bought used) didn't save a dime cost me almost 100 to have it rebuilt.

i know you should run a radiused fitting but i can't remember if mine was or not.

a 90 degree elbow is virtually unavoidable in out cars is it not?
i'm using aeromotive filters designed to be used with the pump so thats not a problem.


now i'm wondering if i made a mistake putting the feed and return lines close together, i know they do in the can but thats completely different. i thought about trying to tack weld something over the ports. some kind of baffling, looking for thoughts and ideas.

i know the way i didn't isn't working, i need to change some things around i'm close but not quite there. i thought about a fuel cell but decided that wasn't going to work. better to buy a brand new tank to play with than go that route.

what about getting some of that foam that they put in fuel cells, i thought about packing the bottom of the tank with that leaving a cutout around the bulkheads. i guess you'd run into some issues with the sending unit..

heres a pic of how mine was ran, the only thing i changed was adding the valves so far.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e256/limige/pumpshot.jpg

Thought we were going to do a sticky for "Big Boy Fuel Systems" or a FAQ, but I didn't see one so I'm just going to past my setup I finished this weekend. The return line is going to be secured to exit right above the pumps so the fuel will help cool the pumps.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/ulakovic22/Project%20Car/TwinPumps.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/ulakovic22/Project%20Car/DualWalbro.jpg

I'm getting ready to upgrade all my lines and parallel the rails. Was thinking of taking pics of everything along with a list of the parts. Was going to post it as sticky potential. I started this week. Should be done in a week or 2. It will be a complete write up.

Ken R.

What junction block is that?

It's an air compressor 1 into 3 block I got at home depot.

Going to merge this into the "sticky"

i'm in the process of redoing mine as well, got another factory tank to work with, drained it flushed it with water and its drying out now. i ordered an 80 amp relay, 30 amp maxi fuse and 10 gauge wiring off darvex.com and plan to order one of those competition engineering sumps from summit to weld onto the bottom of the tank. i believe they tell you to plug 5 1 1/2" holes into the tank and weld the sump underneath creating a baffle. return will probably be on the front top corner of the tank and i'm still looking into where to mount my A1000 and which way everythings going to run. once i figure out where things will be i can determine which fittings, extra line i may have to order and place the order for fittings, hose and sump.

awesome alot of good info in here on fuel systems...

i also had a question on my own sticky regarding the Return line in my system i had decided to go with the stock fuel FEED line as my Return line to my big boy fuel system i flipped the fuel filter around so that the flow goes the other way, would there be a problem with me running a filter on the return back to the tank the way i have it run?i mean the car turns on and runs but i havent driven it like that i wanted to know if i was going to encounter any problems.

I don't think it matters if you run a filter on the return, but I'm sure it's not needed. As long as you have one on the feed line, the fuel shouldn't get dirty and need filtering on the way back to the tank. I guess it couldn't hurt unless it gets clogged and starts effecting fuel pressure, but I don't see that happening.

mines done, came out well. its at my welders now for a stainless exhaust. i'll get some pics once i pickup my car.

would love to see some pics...postem

Subscribing, lots of info.

i am running the aeromotive part # 13101 will this regualtor do the same Fred? do you know if other regulators do the same?

cause its exactly what mine is doing right after shutdown it losses pressure drops to the bottom with no pressure whatsoever.

I don't know if anyone answered your question yet, but when I had one of the Aeromotive regulators that was hanging off the fuel rail, it didn't hold pressure after the engine was off, so I called them and they said that it was intentional to get the flow rate that they wanted. I don't think it matters, though. My car always started right away, cold or hot with that regulator on there. It wasnt like the lines all drained back to the tank or anything. So when the pump was turned on, it pressurized right away and the engine fired.

What junction block is that?

its a 3 in 1 air manifold

Pics of the recent addition. I logged the fuel pressure dropping during every run at the track, after 15# boost, the fuel pressure started to drop with the single Aeromotive A1000. I am triggering the second pump with a 10# pressure switch off the intake. This was also causing the 95# injectors to pull a 102%DC at 23# boost. Now just some final tuning at the track, then off to the dyno for some #s

The dual feed off the sump...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/ak95ta/fuel%20system%20pics/IMG_2153.jpg

The main pump...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/ak95ta/fuel%20system%20pics/IMG_2154.jpg

The secondary pump...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/ak95ta/fuel%20system%20pics/IMG_2155.jpg

The filter and Y setup...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/ak95ta/fuel%20system%20pics/IMG_2156.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/ak95ta/fuel%20system%20pics/IMG_2158.jpg

All the factory heat shields fit, panhard bar brace, and the 4" mufflex exhaust. I just went out and logged a quick run, no fuel pressure drop.