Limit of stock crank & 2-bolt mains?...

Hey guys,

Here are the details of my set-up:

-350 ci. LT1 block - 24,000 miles when taken out - inspected and re-honed
-STOCK crank - 24,000 miles when taken out - inspected, polished, magnafluxed - and re-used.
-Stock 2 bolt mains
-SRP -24CC forged/dished blower pistons. Compression at around 9.1
-Eagle 6" forged H-beam connecting rods
-All bearrings, rod bolts, etc. are of very good quality and the shop that assembled my shortblock really knows what they are doing with clearances, etc.

I am currently running around 9 lbs. of non-intercooled boost making a tad over 500 RWHP (Reving to 6500 RPM) on a Vortech S-trim for about 2 years now.

**QUESTION: Is this about the limits of my bottom-end. Or can I increase the boost a little along with methanol injection or add a small nitrous shot? Some have told me to enjoy it as it is - but some have said that I can easily get more out of it. I want to get the most I can out of it, while hopefully not blowing it up right away. I have been enjoying it "as is" for about 2 years now.

thanx in advance for your responces....

Call me crazy but I would say max 650 with studded mains at least on the stock crank. But if I were you I would get splayed 4. Never heard of a crank breaking due to too much power but not saying it won't happen either.

I wouldn't dump nitrous on it though only more boost and then get a great tune.

p.s. a lot of other parts will start breaking before the crank will i.e. rear tranny etc.

Kiel, did you use ARP main studs on the rebuild? The vast majority of blown LT1 guys over the years have had no problems with 550-600rwhp and 2-bolt mains/ARP studs. There are a handful that have made significantly more without problems. If you are on stock main bolts, I would be a little more cautious on pushing too much more than where you are at now.

Jason

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone breaking a stock LT1 Crank before or breaking a Main bolt or cap. I've heard of people breaking the snout off but you shouldn't have to worry about that unless your using a cog setup.:)

Yes - I did use ARP main studs on the rebuild.

Plus - I figure with the 6" rods, this makes the rotating assembly much lighter due to the decreased piston mass. Which means there should be less stress on the crank and mains. Especially when only spinning to 6500 RPM's.

So I guess I will try to throw a little more boost at it......:)

Throw a water injection setup on it with more boost since you dont have an intercooer.....then it will get real fun :) But before you do ANYTHING, you definitely need to put a 255lph intank pump in the car...not just the "inline" one. You will go lean. I would also think about doing a dual 255lph intank or a single 255lph intank+a Boost-a-pump.

Jason

Cars like yours make me happy. Its good to see someone with a pretty nice setup without going all out. Keep us updated on what you do.

I am shooting for a similar power range if the turbos are not too small. If they are screw it and Ill do 500hp and 800tq

My motors gone 30k with the stock crank/2 bolt mains making 450-500rwhp so keep on truckin!

Cool :D

Thanks for all the replies guys....