oil return line pics?

I would like to see where you are tapping the oil pan to run the oil return line. I bought a -10 AN fitting to weld onto the oil pan but I don't want to put it in a place where its going to interfere with other components of the vehicle. Oh and I'm planning on doing this on the driver's side of the pan so if you have a pic of that, please post or link me to it.
Thanks,
Michael

I would like to see where you are tapping the oil pan to run the oil return line. I bought a -10 AN fitting to weld onto the oil pan but I don't want to put it in a place where its going to interfere with other components of the vehicle. Oh and I'm planning on doing this on the driver's side of the pan so if you have a pic of that, please post or link me to it.
Thanks,
Michael

Here are some pics from my Canton pan that I welded a -8AN fitting on. My welding skills suck and it was my 1st time welding. =D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/th_DSC01671.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/DSC01671.jpg)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/th_DSC01670.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/DSC01670.jpg)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/th_DSC01669.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/DSC01669.jpg)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/th_DSC01668.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/DSC01668.jpg)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/th_DSC01667.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/DSC01667.jpg)

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/th_DSC01666.jpg (http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y26/Blown383/DSC01666.jpg)

-B

The spot on the pan that Blown383 welded his fitting is the safest place to return oil to the pan.

Thanks. I'm going to go start on that right now!

just make sure that you dont have anything protruding into the pan as the crank rotates right through that area

But in those pics the fitting is pointing down.... I thought you needed the flow to be as straight as possible b/c of gravity. ???

The #1 main cap is directly behind that area, so you don't have to worry about the crank hitting the fitting even if the end of the fitting is partially inside the pan.

http://www.tcg-racing.com/Pictures/Misc/Crankinmotor1.jpg http://www.tcg-racing.com/Pictures/Misc/Oilpanonmotor1.jpg



:thumb:

But in those pics the fitting is pointing down.... I thought you needed the flow to be as straight as possible b/c of gravity. ???

Its just the camera angle. On the engine stand it angled so that the oil would flow right into the pan. :D

-B

Yes definitely position it as close to a main cap as possible.

I still have not made up my mind yet where to tap the pan. I can't really tell how high the oil level gets in the pan and by the time you put the fittings on the bottom of the turbo, the line droops lower than the hole in the oil pan. I think I'm going to not use my braided line and instead use a hard line of some sort with intentions of running the line in a straighter plane.

Got a question for you guys that welded the fitting. Did you just use the normal steel wire and 80/20 argon/co2 or did you go out and buy aluminum feed wire and 100% argon like you're supposed to?

Got a question for you guys that welded the fitting. Did you just use the normal steel wire and 80/20 argon/co2 or did you go out and buy aluminum feed wire and 100% argon like you're supposed to?

It depends on the fitting you purchased. If its a steel fitting....then it has to be steel wire, if its aluminum....then you need to buy aluminum.

-B

It depends on the fitting you purchased. If its a steel fitting....then it has to be steel wire, if its aluminum....then you need to buy aluminum.

-B
But the canton pan is steel right? I've never welded two unlike metals together. My oil line kit came with an aluminum fitting.

Edit- take it back, the fitting is steel, all the other fittings are aluminum.

But the canton pan is steel right? I've never welded two unlike metals together. My oil line kit came with an aluminum fitting.

Edit- take it back, the fitting is steel, all the other fittings are aluminum.

Only way to do that is to braze the fitting on using a filler metal that has a lower melting point than steel or aluminum.....however its never wise to mix and match metals. I would just invest $5.00 in a new -10AN steel fitting. :D

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/16264/10002/-1

-B

But the canton pan is steel right? I've never welded two unlike metals together. My oil line kit came with an aluminum fitting.

Edit- take it back, the fitting is steel, all the other fittings are aluminum.


Rats... in that case you have no problems.... have fun welding!

-B

well guys, i need to tap my oil pan in that front spot there and was wondering, how far can i go before it hits the main cap?
Im scared of hitting anything using a tap lol

well guys, i need to tap my oil pan in that front spot there and was wondering, how far can i go before it hits the main cap?
Im scared of hitting anything using a tap lol


Gonna do it with the pan on the car???? If so i advise that you get dirty and fill the car up with ALOT of oil so the chips come out while drilling.
And do a few oil changes early to make sure. Same while tapping too. Fill it up again and tap. (have someone fill it up while u tap ;) )

Jay

Gonna do it with the pan on the car???? If so i advise that you get dirty and fill the car up with ALOT of oil so the chips come out while drilling.
And do a few oil changes early to make sure. Same while tapping too. Fill it up again and tap. (have someone fill it up while u tap ;) )

Jay

well, i will do several different things.

I will not only tap it with vaseline on the tap, but then once it is tapped, i will run oil through it with the plug out twice to get the chips out that way. After that, i will fill it up and let it sit overnight, then drain it again. And to top it all off, a magnetic drain plug.

well, i will do several different things.

I will not only tap it with vaseline on the tap, but then once it is tapped, i will run oil through it with the plug out twice to get the chips out that way. After that, i will fill it up and let it sit overnight, then drain it again. And to top it all off, a magnetic drain plug.
its still hard to get chips out. I just had my oil pump drive sheer and I drained it and only got a few small flakes. So I pulled the pan (pain in the ass) and there was a ton of chips in the pan stuck to a little bit of sludge (and the motor is a fresh 355 rebuild with around maybe 20-30K KM)

So I would stick a magnat on the bottom of the pan and glue it there or something so you know there not gonna wonder up into the crank etc.

Jay

Do it right and remove the pan... it shouldn't be that hard since its a Canton pan. It'll even be easier if you have a tubular K-member. Even with the pan off there were chips that went flying EVERYWHERE!

-B

Do it right and remove the pan... it shouldn't be that hard since its a Canton pan. It'll even be easier if you have a tubular K-member. Even with the pan off there were chips that went flying EVERYWHERE!

-B

well, i have a stock pan, and stock k-member. How do i go about dropping the pan without pullin the motor? I dont have a life, and only have one set of jackstands haha

well, i have a stock pan, and stock k-member. How do i go about dropping the pan without pullin the motor? I dont have a life, and only have one set of jackstands haha

Undo the motor mounts...jack the motor up on the crank pully(with wood)...slowly. Jack it up as high as you can go remove the PITA bolts and whatnot.

Mine was different bc its in a 3rd gen and I have a S10 tranny housing with camaro internals, I dont have a oil level sender, and i didnt have to remove the starter.

I had to drop my k-member. (not hard at all)

Jay