Noisy panhard rod
Noisy panhard rod
I picked up a used rod/rod PHR a few months ago to replace my poly/rod one.
Since I put it in it has been noisy as hell. I've re-installed the thing many times and can't seem to stop it. I am doing it with the suspension loaded, and while it seems tight after I finish putting it in, after a quick drive the thing is loose again. The part that is making noise it the rod ends rotating and hitting the body/axle mounting points.
I've tried splaying them in a way so that they are already resting against the mounting points in opposing angles, therefore not able to move in either direction, but somehow that didn't work either and I ended up getting enough wiggle room so that is still rattled a bit.
Here is a pic of the end.

It is technically a homemade piece but it is from a guy that owned a local shop that had a strong following that made very good LCAs that saw fast times.
Since I put it in it has been noisy as hell. I've re-installed the thing many times and can't seem to stop it. I am doing it with the suspension loaded, and while it seems tight after I finish putting it in, after a quick drive the thing is loose again. The part that is making noise it the rod ends rotating and hitting the body/axle mounting points.
I've tried splaying them in a way so that they are already resting against the mounting points in opposing angles, therefore not able to move in either direction, but somehow that didn't work either and I ended up getting enough wiggle room so that is still rattled a bit.
Here is a pic of the end.

It is technically a homemade piece but it is from a guy that owned a local shop that had a strong following that made very good LCAs that saw fast times.
Are the nuts backing off a bit? It looks similar to my double adjustable PHB. I was having a similar problem and had to adjust it so that the rod ends were both horizontal to the floor when well tightened. Then try a bit of threadlock on the jam nuts to help keep it in place.
Above you typed: "I've tried splaying them in a way so that they are already resting against the mounting points in opposing angles," That sounded kinda like what not to do if im interpreting it right. IF you were to draw a centerline through both rod ends (not just the center parts but the holder thingy too) they should both be parrallel to each other.
Worst case, replace the rod ends with new ones. Maybe theyre worn out? (looks kinda chewed up from the pic). People recommend the QA1 rod ends on this board a lot
Above you typed: "I've tried splaying them in a way so that they are already resting against the mounting points in opposing angles," That sounded kinda like what not to do if im interpreting it right. IF you were to draw a centerline through both rod ends (not just the center parts but the holder thingy too) they should both be parrallel to each other.
Worst case, replace the rod ends with new ones. Maybe theyre worn out? (looks kinda chewed up from the pic). People recommend the QA1 rod ends on this board a lot
Well, the thing is when the car is on the ground if I reach up I can rotate the bar in place and replicate that noise by smacking it against the mounting points. It's not tight. The locking nuts on the ends are tight, and for the hell of it I did replace one of the ends with a QA1 since it had the smallest of play in it. The other one looks/feels fine.
I used the jegster LCA in the rear....they have a solid bushing on one end and rod end on the other so they don't turn.
Try it again with each rod end slighty opposing each othe from parallel.....just a little. That would lessen the clunk but it will still do it. I tried everything I could to resolve it with no luck
The rod end shown is a cheap 2 piece rod end which has a tendency to hammer out rather quickly and will make the noise you are talking about. I would recommend replacing the rod ends with a good quality 3 piece unit with Teflon lining (FK Bearing, Aurora, and NHBB are the best). When ordering a rod end ask for a fit which will have a breakaway torque rating of approximately 7-12 inch pounds. The break away torque will help keep the ball from rotating in the housing freely.
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