Got an E-cutout, please help me out.

I have an E-cutout that I bought used without a switch and harness.

THE PROBLEM:
When I go to close it, once it has reached the closed position and you let off the switch the thing cracks back open slightly and sounds bad. This happens cause of all the gear reduction tolerances adding up and then rebounding under the high torque of the gearbox.

It seems to me if the current going to the motor can be limited to just a tiny bit then the this will not happen. I am thinking that on the factory stock E-cutout switches and harnesses there may be a current limiting resistor attached to fix this problem.

Can anyone verify for me if they have a resistor or some other kind of circuit attached to their E-cutout switch.

Thanks

Problem solved.
I guess nobody here has an E-cutout to look at for me.

Problem solved.
I guess nobody here has an E-cutout to look at for me.

What'd you do to fix the problem? I've been considering an e-cutout myself over a manual cutout because I like the idea of being able to open and close it on the road vs. having to wait until you get where you're going.

Problem solved.
I guess nobody here has an E-cutout to look at for me.

There are several types of elec. cutouts on the market today, maybe if you would have included a picture of the problem or the manufacturer who made it, people could chime in a give you a hand. Anyways on my DMH there is no circuit attached to mine, just one weather plug that connects to the 2 way switch wire.