SR Camshaft Selection Help Needed!!!

Im looking for someone that can either make or help me Spec out a solid roller camshaft for my 396. It needs to be ground on a Small base circle .900'' and Unfortunally i don't have the knowledge to know what will work and what won't so im looking for a company thats proven and that i can trust to spec the cam correctly. so the motor reaches it's max potiential and i won't have to tear into because Cam B is really what i needed for my goals instead of Cam A. So im turning to the experienced bunch for recommendations on who to contact.

My Goals with the car are low 11's high 10's on the motor, i have a wet kit from my previous engine but would like to keep it off and run the car N/A. It's a Street/Strip Car and is full weight. 6-speed with a 12 bolt rearend w/4.30 gears.

Engine Specs
Competition 396 by GES
Eagle 4340 Crank
Eagle 6'" Rods
Mahle Forged -5cc Pistons & low Drag Rings
ARP hardware
Deck height is 0
Compressed height of piston is a 1.062
.036 Cometic head gasket and 61cc head will be a 12.02 compression ratio.
Melling HV Oil Pump
Canton 6qt Oil Pan

Head & Intake Specs
Ported TFS Heads, 61cc Chamber
Valve Springs???
Locks & Retainers???
Ported Intake to match the heads
Asm Mono blade TB

Intake Exhaust
.100 68 54
.200 143 117
.300 217 177
.400 263 219
.500 290 243
.550 293 251
.600 294 257



Valvetrain
Cam ?????
LT4 HD Timing set
Jesel Shaft mounts 1.6
Morel SR lifters w/ Tie bar
Pushrods???

Exhaust Specs
Kooks 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 stepped headers
3'' True duals w/ Flowmaster Single chamber mufflers

This is the basic info on the engine combo, all left i really need is to get the cam spec'ed out and i can start putting this bad boy together. Hopefully with the quality of parts i have here & good tuning i can easily reach my 1/4 mile goals. Thanks for the help guys, if you see anything that might need to be addressed or recommend anything please speak up... theres alot of time, money, blood, sweat & tears going into this project i would like it to come out correctly the first time :D .

You might want to contact Bret Bauer.

Rich

Bret, AI, or Cam Motion. I have seen very good results from all of these companies.

http://www.lynk.com/rickb/camcard.jpg

I made 448 through a TH400 with a 4200 stall 9.5" converter with this cam

Bret gets my vote.:cool:

bret gets my vote also he did great work with mine

http://www.lynk.com/rickb/camcard.jpg

I made 448 through a TH400 with a 4200 stall 9.5" converter with this cam

Found in my experience anyway that LTx stroker motors seem to perform at their best with a little less duration than the card shows. Especially if you have larger intake ports in the heads. I've tried as much as 254/263 duration solid roller with .680/.670 lift (or pretty close) and currently make more power with just a 245/248 .630/.630 hydraulic cam.

Still have an issue I can't seem to find, but the car made as much as 483 rwhp and has an exceptional powerband. Everything says I should be making quite a bit more but we'll get there....when we get there.

The very first thing I do is plug in the dyno numbers into an excell spread sheet to see what my average gain/loss is going through a simulated 1/4th mile run. Basically do the average hp within the rpm range of each gear. A lot more meaningfull than peak power.

Hi Guys,

I think the horseower is not representative of the final goal for this cam. I knew the LT4 intake would only support so much airflow. I'd hoped to see 480ish really but the nitrous was going to be my equalizer for the intake restriction. The duration was for the nitrous. Cam is installed straight up.

Hi Guys,

the nitrous was going to be my equalizer. .

My favorite original one liner regarding nitrous is....."A monkey on a Tricycle could run 11's with enough nitrous"

I'd say you got that right, it does work.

My favorite original one liner regarding nitrous is....."A monkey on a Tricycle could run 11's with enough nitrous"

I'd say you got that right, it does work.Right. With due care, a lot of electronics and good block prep.

My favorite original one liner regarding nitrous is....."A monkey on a Tricycle could run 11's with enough nitrous"

I'd say you got that right, it does work.

Thank you, I'll remember that one. All though my short term memory isn't what it use.............................wait, what was I talking about? Nitrous, monkey, three wheels, 11's?

My favorite original one liner regarding nitrous is....."A monkey on a Tricycle could run 11's with enough nitrous"

I'd say you got that right, it does work.


:D

http://www.theoldtoyshop.com/Triapef.jpg

There is really a little more to it than that. But some truth to it, for sure.

Rich

Is this a standing joke? Are we prejudiced against power-adders? I hope to see a mid 10 na and low 9's with the nitrous. Is this not a sensible goal? This is an LT1 block for gosh sakes. I got into the 11's with my nearly stock LS1.

People who run NA often do look down on the PA people. They think of PA's as "shortcuts" or "cheating". They are probably just jealous!

Rich

:D

http://www.theoldtoyshop.com/Triapef.jpg

There is really a little more to it than that. But some truth to it, for sure.

Rich

That was funny!

I've contacted a few people that you guys are recommending with no luck, i figure its because its racing season people are getting extremely busy. Im going to contact cam motion later today and see what they recommend.

Edit
Contacted cam motion and they recommended that i fill out there cam form and go from there.

I did call comps tech line and Spoke with someone and they recommended 248/256 .662 Intake .664 Exhaust 112 LSA with a operating range of 2800-6800. Im a little worried about the recommendations of this cam because i told the guy what i had engine, trans & rearend wise and he put me on hold and comes back with this recommendation didn't even ask vehicle weight, goals, purpose of vehicle perferred operation range. So to you guys does this cam look like it would perform well?

Get in the 260's on a 112+4 with a .425 lobe lift and 1.7 or 8 rockers and a .900 base circle. That 396 if it's got 13+ static\ 9.0DCR compression will eat that cam up.

Cam motion charges you $25 for a cam request. Its because they dont just rattle off some numbers real quick. If you spend the time to fill out the sheet they can give you a real nice cam for your set up. They take a few days to get back to you but its worth it IMO. You get the $25 back when you buy a cam from them.

I went with Cam Motion. 263/270 .686/.674 w1.6 rockers on a 112+4. Going into a 355 for track use only with ocasional N2O.

Get in the 260's on a 112+4 with a .425 lobe lift and 1.7 or 8 rockers and a .900 base circle. That 396 if it's got 13+ static\ 9.0DCR compression will eat that cam up.
It will be in the lower 12's on compression.. I plan to use pump gas this won't be a race car only i would like to enjoy it on the street as well.

I would be VERY careful about taking the advice of some people in this post. SOME people in this post haven't built an engine(of any kind) in 4 to 5 YEARS, more or less an LT1(none). He sits and uses engine software(that's ALL he does) and lies about having this car running this, and this engine doing that and talking like he owns this big raceshop. In fact he has only had ONE car that he built and owned and that was over 35 years ago, So beware. He is taken in high regard on this site because of his lies. He knows who he is and he knows I know the truth....as do all of my friends. Most people can't afford mistakes, and definately can't afford to re-invent the wheel.....the best way to go fast on a budget(most of the people on this board) is to copy someone elses setup..hence the LE1/2/3/4 packages.

Again, beware.


David

It will be in the lower 12's on compression.. I plan to use pump gas this won't be a race car only i would like to enjoy it on the street as well.

As long as ya don't go over 9.0DCR ya will not have any problem with 92 octane.
With that cam and 13.5-1 ya will be 9.10DCR.

What's wrong with that on the street,why can't ya enjoy a FAST car on the street?

I would be VERY careful about taking the advice of some people in this post. SOME people in this post haven't built an engine(of any kind) in 4 to 5 YEARS, more or less an LT1(none). He sits and uses engine software(that's ALL he does) and lies about having this car running this, and this engine doing that and talking like he owns this big raceshop. In fact he has only had ONE car that he built and owned and that was over 35 years ago, So beware. He is taken in high regard on this site because of his lies. He knows who he is and he knows I know the truth....as do all of my friends. Most people can't afford mistakes, and definately can't afford to re-invent the wheel.....the best way to go fast on a budget(most of the people on this board) is to copy someone elses setup..hence the LE1/2/3/4 packages.

Again, beware.


David
How would ya know anything about my racing,I wasn't there for 35 years.
At least I have built many more than ONE ENGINE in my life Mr Tool Belt. Ask Brett if it will work.
LT1 is no different than SBC except the advantages of cooling.

When ya going to bring my stuff back ya have decided to keep/steal.

Check with Charlene, she has the reciepts...for $4800, All you got to do is have the balls to ask for them. You owe ME.


D

The reason the car has sat for 2 years is ya didn't work on it. I agreed to do the engine and you do the car,that didn't happen, I did the car too. Nice copy of my engine pretty much down to the "T". What's wrong ya can't come up with your own design.
Prior to this everything in speed equipment ya owned was bought and installed by me when I was home on vacation. Some of it ,most,of it was pretty fast for what it was.

The 4800.00 for what-- not my tools and air compressor. You own none of them (and I have the receipts to prove it) compressor,engine hoist,measureing tools and such.That has nothing to do with my engine tools,but if that's the way ya want it so be it.You will not keep that stuff I promise ya.

As long as ya don't go over 9.0DCR ya will not have any problem with 92 octane.
With that cam and 13.5-1 ya will be 9.10DCR.

What's wrong with that on the street,why can't ya enjoy a FAST car on the street?
Is there a link that i could use to help Find/calculate DCR?

and your saying with the cam you mentioned eariler a 13.5 compression and 9 DCR will have somewhat street friendly manners?

http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

This will download it on your computer. Go 1/2-3/4 way down the page and click on it.

[QUOTE=FASTFATBOY;4588091]Come on with it, I am ready and waiting...and I DO have reciepts. You got it all back. Yeh I didn't work on the car.....dude you got a warped mind...I worked on it plenty and held down a full time job to keep a roof over YOUR head for free(as Charlene is doing). The difference in my engine is:

MINE will get finished
MINE will be street driveable
MINE was ALOT cheaper than your NEVER will be finished engine.
MINE will be at cruising the coast this year.


Yours.....none of the above.


Yeh YOU built and installed the last motor ALL by yourself...did you forget I WAS THERE????????????? You are truly in a dream world. And you bought EVERY piece of it.....thats a damn lie , I paid for every piece on the last engine. PERIOD!

The reason the car sat for 2 years is every 4 months YOU changed something on the damn thing. And over engineered it, lots of stuff that car didn't need and I didn't want. But you did it anyway...oh well.

Again, Charlene(you know the one you are schmoozing off of)has the cancelled checks and reciepts for $4800 paid TO YOU, with car parts written right on the checks. Just gotta muster up the balls to ask to see them.


BTW you get enough money to live on your own and live well, why are you using your sister?


You got YOUR engine off of EA Pro....you didnt design squat..EA Pro did. Got a little secret for ya all internal combustion engines are "copies"[/QUOTE

EAP CONFIRMED the design.That's the way to go nowadays didn't ya know that with your ONE engine. All you wanted was any old kind of junk as long as it was shiny. Your friends know who bought what and who worked on it.
The reason the last one let go is the cheap cam bearings ya bought to put in it.
No one is taking advantage of anyone,that's the way ya would like it though.

Again I say ya will not steal my stuff. THIEF
Ya think ya can take advantage of an old man,guess what.

Iroc Z28.

Ya have to use the advertised duration numbers with that calculator.

Iroc Z28.

Ya have to use the advertised duration numbers with that calculator.
Thanks for the link! i will start playing with numbers to see how a engine is effected, starting with my Old 847 Cam

Is there a link that i could use to help Find/calculate DCR?

and your saying with the cam you mentioned eariler a 13.5 compression and 9 DCR will have somewhat street friendly manners?

For some reason I always feel disfunctional computing dynamic compression but with a 12.8 to 1 compression and the 245/248 cam mine says 8.4 which really surprises me as I was expecting it to be a tiny bit higher. Anyway in going from 12.4 to 1 to 12.8, I had to pull about 5 degrees out at lower kpa to prevent pinging with just that much of a minor change.

Besides that.....drives great.

OK......you guys now can fight some more. Who's turn is it? I forgot.

Well i put in my cam request to Cam motion and we will see what they come back to say. In the mean time im going to keep contacting others and see what they recommend & wait for others to chime in this thread.

I do have a question what does this + # mean after the LSA? For example like 1racerdude said 112 + 4 what does the + 4 represent?

4 degrees adv ground in the cam.


David

it meas they grind 4* of advance into the cam so you dont have to try and advance the cam timing with your timing chain setup.

Thats what i thought but wasent sure. is that better then trying to advance the cam by the timing chain?

Thats what i thought but wasent sure. is that better then trying to advance the cam by the timing chain?


Yes.



David

The pin placement is such that ICL is 4* advanced.
Advanced pull the torque to a lower RPM and the opposite higher. You don't need more than 4* if the cam is right for the engine set up.

Alright got my cam specs from cam motion they recommend

A 247/253 .683/.664 on a 110 LSA the part number shows the last numbers being a 110+4 so i don't know it's a true 110 + 4 or if it's just part of the part number.

What do you guys think of the cam? it's similar in duration to the comp cam recommendation but the lift is different along with the LSA. Im going to plug it in and see what the DCR will come out to be.

the lift seems backwards to me first off your flow numbers lack on the ext side and they tell ya you want a bigger lift on the ext to clean out the chamber for the fresh intake charge

Alright got my cam specs from cam motion they recommend

A 247/253 .683/.664 on a 110 LSA the part number shows the last numbers being a 110+4 so i don't know it's a true 110 + 4 or if it's just part of the part number.

What do you guys think of the cam? it's similar in duration to the comp cam recommendation but the lift is different along with the LSA. Im going to plug it in and see what the DCR will come out to be.

Not sure about the lift aspect one way or the other but the spec's are consistent within the range of what I've personally seen in very well performing stroker LTx engines.

Haven't done business with Cam Motion in 7-8 years after my solid lifter breakage episode so things may have changed but it seems every time I got cam spec's from them it was different. Perhaps it's just me....I'd expect them to be the same or at lease very similiar for the same setup.

Haven't done business with Cam Motion in 7-8 years after my solid lifter breakage episode so things may have changed but it seems every time I got cam spec's from them it was different. Perhaps it's just me....I'd expect them to be the same or at lease very similiar for the same setup.


I had the same experience with Comps "Cam help line". I think the people just type crap into the computer and read what it spits out with no real knowledge of what really going on. I called 4 times, gave the same info and got 4 different cam recommendations. Maybe its better now but it wasn't when I tried it a couple years ago.

I had the same experience with Comps "Cam help line". I think the people just type crap into the computer and read what it spits out with no real knowledge of what really going on. I called 4 times, gave the same info and got 4 different cam recommendations. Maybe its better now but it wasn't when I tried it a couple years ago.
I was actually going to try that with comp, the guy didn't seem like he asked enough questions and seemed like he didn't know what was going on so i thought about calling and talking to someone different and see if they recommend the same cam.

I you want to double check the recommendation, call Mr. John
at Bullet 662-893-5670. This guy knows his business.

Sounds like a nice cam for your application. Not sure what your specifics are but Cam Motion wont steer you wrong. Their cams usually have alot of lift for some reason. Those specs are probably with 1.6 rockers also. If you step back to a 1.5 it will lower the lift quite a bit. I say the more lift the better;)

My Cam Motion cam has more lift on the intake also : .686" I and .674" E

Just make sure you check PTV clearance.

I you want to double check the recommendation, call Mr. John
at Bullet 662-893-5670. This guy knows his business.

Agreed.... I've used a lot of Bullet cams over the years. I consider it an advantage, since not too many people know of them.

I you want to double check the recommendation, call Mr. John
at Bullet 662-893-5670. This guy knows his business.
Thanks for the tip, i will give him a call tomorrow.

the little cam motion roller will run well. i had a cam motion roller 249-260@.050 and the car went 10.40's @127-128.