Did a search and just want to make sure...

Ok im swapping out the 10 bolt for a 9". Im going to be re-using the LS1 aluminum Drive shaft and want to make sure the 240-0447 u-joint is the right one. I pick it up from napa the other day and it has inner c-clips on the cups that press into the drivshaft. by looking at the u-joint in the driveshaft now there isnt any clips, or at elast non that I can see. thanks!

If you're upgrading differentials to withstand hard launches on sticky tires, the LS1 driveshaft is now your weak link. I would look into buying a steel driveshaft. I watched my friend twist his LS1 driveshaft like it was made of taffy.

Here's a link to driveshaft sources: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422813

If you're upgrading differentials to withstand hard launches on sticky tires, the LS1 driveshaft is now your weak link. I would look into buying a steel driveshaft. I watched my friend twist his LS1 driveshaft like it was made of taffy.

Here's a link to driveshaft sources: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422813

Oh ya I know all about twisted aluminum shafts but I couldnt find one for the price I wanted to spend so Im still looking for a steel one but I would still ike to (A) drive the car around till I find one (B) have the alumium one as a spare incase i break the steel one. right now I make around 400 at the wheels so its not like I blow the aluminum one up right away, but I do plan on spraying so I KNOW I need a heavy duty steel one.

So ya will the conversion u-joint work in the aluminum LS1 shaft?

You'll not only need to match U-joints but you'll also need to check the length. The stock length was too long for my Moser 9" setup. I had Denny's make me a new steel driveshaft that was about 3/4" shorter. So if you end up needing a shorter driveshaft and a different U-joint, that's money that could be applied to a new steel driveshaft.

Well I got the U-joint for 10.99 so Im not to worried about that....