Have le1 heads + cam, want 450 rwhp

Trying to determine best direction to go here. My car is still being tweaked at the moment, but when its done I figure it will have around 360 rwhp with my combo(le1 heads + 224/230 cam + ported intake, etc).

My goals are fairly simple I guess, its a street car, not a DD, never take it to the track, want car to be fast yet not too fast(my opinion of 450 rwhp came from driving in some fast cars and I feel that is the limit of being safe on the street as far as what I can control).


What supercharger set up would get me at my goal? I'm assuming i'll need to do a 355 of sorts to be reliable, however i dont want to spend a small fortune on the engine. That being said, I'll need about 80rwp-90rwp hp increase to satisfy my needs. Understood i'll prob need a new tranny eventually, but thats ok.

Also, what should be done as far as short block? Again, I'll spend what I need to spend, but I would rather it be less than more. I'd like to get away with only rods/pistons/rings. What other things should i be aware of as far as upgrading? I have 32# injectors already and an MSD ignition. Car has 90K on the clock.

I am trying to piece together a budget so I can plan it out over the next year or so and start collecting parts and have a time plan as to when i can get this all done. Work will not be done by me, so perhaps whats involved hours wise getting a block torn down, machined, etc would be helpful. I know most chargers are around ~3500+-, plus install was about 10 hours of labor, + tuning ~ 500. So that puts me around 5 G's already before engine work.

Please help me to make an informed decision! Thanks.

Well, I made 446 RWHP last year through LE2 heads/cam and a Vortech non-intercooled supercharger running 6 lbs. of boost. But keep in mind this is through an auto with a 3,000 stall convertor - I also have different pistons that yield me around 9.2:1 compression.

I love my Vortech S-trim and would definitely recommend one to anyone. The installation is fairly easy - even tapping the oil pan is not a big deal at all.

For your options - I would suggest either:
-Vortech S-trim (around $3,700)
-Procharger p1sc (around same price)
-Powerdyne 6 lb. model (around $3,100 - but you get what you pay for)
-100 shot of nitrous (less than $1,000 - but many do not like nitrous)

Regarding the motor build - If you really don't want/need over 450 RWHP - then you don't need to go too crazy. The main thing you'll want to do is get those stock pistons out of there if you are going forced induction. Get some good forged pistons in there and lower your compression by at least a point. You'll probably want a set of forged I-beam rods also just in case. For the crank, at those power levels your talking about - you can just re-use the stock crank if its in good shape, just get it polished. The crank is the most durable part of the LT1 assembly by far. I have seen stock cranks approach 600 RWHP in LT1's and be fine, as long as the tuning is on and the rest of the assembly is good. If you do decide to go 355 - then you can re-use your stock crank for that.

I've been there/done that with what you are attempting to do - so let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck with everything..

Well, I made 446 RWHP last year through LE2 heads/cam and a Vortech non-intercooled supercharger running 6 lbs. of boost. But keep in mind this is through an auto with a 3,000 stall convertor - I also have different pistons that yield me around 9.2:1 compression.

I love my Vortech S-trim and would definitely recommend one to anyone. The installation is fairly easy - even tapping the oil pan is not a big deal at all.

For your options - I would suggest either:
-Vortech S-trim (around $3,700)
-Procharger p1sc (around same price)
-Powerdyne 6 lb. model (around $3,100 - but you get what you pay for)
-100 shot of nitrous (less than $1,000 - but many do not like nitrous)

Regarding the motor build - If you really don't want/need over 450 RWHP - then you don't need to go too crazy. The main thing you'll want to do is get those stock pistons out of there if you are going forced induction. Get some good forged pistons in there and lower your compression by at least a point. You'll probably want a set of forged I-beam rods also just in case. For the crank, at those power levels your talking about - you can just re-use the stock crank if its in good shape, just get it polished. The crank is the most durable part of the LT1 assembly by far. I have seen stock cranks approach 600 RWHP in LT1's and be fine, as long as the tuning is on and the rest of the assembly is good. If you do decide to go 355 - then you can re-use your stock crank for that.

I've been there/done that with what you are attempting to do - so let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck with everything..

Thank you for the reply. I have an auto/verter as well, so it sounds like the 6psi will do me well. Did you do the block work yourself? How much was just the engine work? Which pistons/rods/rings did you get? If possible, i'd like to copy your set up :D. How did your auto handle the 440 rwhp ?

I used SRP -24CC dished blower pistons
(took my compression down to 9.2:1 with ported LT1 heads)

Also used Eagle H-beam rods (but I-beams will work fine also)
I did all the work myself - except for honing the block, polishing the crank, and assembling the short block. The engine work, including parts and labor - totaled $1,800

My 4l60e auto tranny started slipping after only a few thousand miles with my set-up. But depending on the miles on your tranny - it may hold up for a while. But the 4l60e's are not noted for taking a lot of power real well.

I ended up doing the 6-speed conversion this winter. It made my car much more fun to drive - plus the t-56 tranny's can take a heck of abuse and still hold up....