Clutch pedal gone. Need help ASAP PLEASE!!!

I was driving home tonight just driving normal. I leave a light and shift into second gear. Car is fine. I push in the clutch to shift to third gear, I hear a pop and the pedal goes away. No pressure at all. Can't shift out of gear.

Pull over and turn off car. Put the car in first gear and turn the car on (so the clutch is obviously stuck engaged) it lurches forward and starts driving, so I power shift to second. Stay in second the rest of the way home.

When I get home, I look under the car and there is fluid steady dripping from the slave cylinder (I think that's the one on the tranny, right?). So I get under there, and it seems to be leaking from the seal on the slave.

So clutch pedal popped and lost pressure and slave is leaking. Somebody please let me know what you think it is. This is my daily driver!

just get a new slave. not hard to do. 2 bolts on the bell housing and a roll pin to get the line off

Its also possible that the clutch fork broke, and allowed more travel on the slave than it normally would. I had a fork snap like that a few years ago, but it didn't take out the slave. It will be obvious once you remove the slave if thats what happened, though.

I've never delved into tranny before, so I'm just nervous about digging in. Is it that simple to pull it off? Just the bolts and pin? Do I have to worry about air in the system once I take it off?

Also, if it is the fork, do I have to drop the tranny to change the fork? Thanks so much guys.

I'm freaking out because I'm still new in my job which means I can't miss work. I have to ride the motorcycle in 30 degree weather tomorrow morning.

You would have to at least pull it back some, but its probably ok. I just mentioned it because its a possibility.

yeah, unless you get a full master/slave setup that is pre bled, your gonna have to bleed it. just push the rod in about an inch and just pump it by hand, short, quick strokes until thier is no bubbles in the res. just have someone up top to keep and eye on the master.

Okay, got the slave off and it came out in pieces. I have never dealt with this before, but I do not think that's a good thing. Here are some pics. I hope they work. Just signed up with photo bucket to host these.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u112/400HPCamaro/SlaveCylinder1.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u112/400HPCamaro/SlaveCylinder2.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u112/400HPCamaro/SlaveCylinder3.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u112/400HPCamaro/SlaveCylinder4.jpg

In the last two pics, I'm showing my clutch fork. Again, I'm not sure because this is the first time I've ever opened it, but did it break off, and is that a broken finger on it in image 4? I appreciate any help you all can give me.

yup, looks like the fork broke too. how many miles on the clutch? any more than 40k, just pull the tranny and replace everything.

Man, that sux. I think there is only about 20K or so on the clutch. I never race the car anymore, so the clutch still hits like a mother! That's probably what did this. Houston rush hour traffic on and off and on and off the clutch. It chatters like hell. Any tips on pulling the tranny anybody?

I think I may change the rear main seal while the tranny is off (car has 160,000 miles). Would that be smart? How much harder would it be? Thanks.

hold on ill post you a link to a good write up

http://www.zmydust.com/lt1clutch.html

just follow this guide. everything you need to know

what kind of clutch are you running?

It's a Spec Stage 3 with a stock flywheel. I've tried just about every clutch once. This one grips good, but it's the most chatter of any I've used.

i think that is just the nature of Spec clutches. i had a stage 1 and the chatter was ridiculous and it only lasted 10k. went to a Mcleod single disc and have never been happier. holds 500hp and NO chatter at all. but just follow that link i gave ya and you should be fine

Wow. Even the Stage 1 does it? I thought it was just that I was running an off/on switch clutch. Interesting. The instructions in the link look awesome. Thanks a ton for that. Do you know if there are any stronger options than the stock clutch fork or do i just need to go back with that?

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/cart.cfm?CFID=7323675&CFTOKEN=25875228

I replaced my stock clutch fork with a new one, and haven't had any further issues. Its funny you mention a chattering clutch, as I'm convinced the POS Ram HD clutch I had in (this was about 5 years ago), which chattered like hell, had a lot to do with the fork breaking. I went to a McLeod Street Twin, and while it was like an on/off switch as you describe, it didn't chatter at all.

Yeah man, I know it's the chatter that is killing it. You can learn how to deal with the chatter and even ride it out to some extent, but it doesn't make it any easier on moving parts. A little chatter isn't such a bad thing, but in Houston it takes me an hour to go 20 miles to and from work, so there's a lot of off and on the clutch.

Atlanta is the same, probably worse...chatter is something I won't put up with!

I've run a Spec stage 2 and it wasn't chattery at all. Now there's a stage 3 in there and clutch pedal doesn't feel bad at all! No miles on it yet, but I find it odd that the clutch was so hard for you to push in. It sounds like something wasn't aligned quite right. Oh, and I suggest you buy a whole new hydraulic asembly including master and slave cylinder: It's a snap to install and they only cost about $125 or so from Gmpartsdirect or else from Dal Slabaugh at Van Devere Olds. That is who I bought mine from. You wont have to worry about bleeding the thing.