Who knows there E40D's

I have a E40D grinds when you put it in reverse....I think the rear planetary is gone, Anyone know? any advise?
Going to pull it out tommorow night

What year is it? E4ODs aren't known for breaking rear planetaries. they do like to break O/D and forward planetaries. Later units have steel planets, which seems to have helped, but later units break the low/reverse drum that the rear planet rides in. The later '98-up units are referred to as 4R100s. If it's a '96-up unit, watch your check balls. There are only 8 in the case, instead of the previous 9. This is providing it's not a real early unit.
Early '89 take 14, late '89 take 10, '90-'95 take 9 in the case.

Do yourself a favor, check into a Shift Technologies (Superior) shift kit, and install a new solenoid pack while you've got it apart.
Also watch the EPC steel check ball and spring under the seperator plate (under the solenoid pac)

Make a note of your sprag rotation!

Make sure you use a Precision front seal! The stock Ford/National front seals can't take heat very well.

If you have any other questions, give me a call 302-250-1202

Frank
CPT

o.k. frank....may be giving you a call soon
It is a 93 bronco 5.8L it goes in revers and it moves find but if you stab the gas something is grinding and it slips.... This is my brothers and he wants to run it at bronco nationals and wants it back yesterday sooo I will pull it and see what i've got.....

I pulled it apart....everything looks great, this is the only problem I found. the reverse clutches..friction is gone and the teeth are gone. Any reason that would cause this. This was a ford reman trans....it has not been abused, It looks like it was posibly set up too tight...Thanks

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p46/mdacton/get-attachment-1.jpg

The E4OD doesn't usually eat reverse frictions. Pull the piston out of the case to check it, and the seals. Since this is an earlier unit, you've probably also got a bronze/metal rear sprag cage. If so, you're inner sprag race will be bad. I ALWAYS update them to the later style plastic sprag, and a new inner race.
Be very careful with your clearance ptting it back together. The apply hole in in the worm track in the rear of the transmission. Make sure you air check it! Check the condition of the spring pack for the reverse piston.
This thing should've had a bad reverse delay before it ever go that bad.
Check your valves very carefully, especially the ones in the accumulator body. The small valves have a habit of sticking.
Check your pressure regulator boost valve (in the pump) The sleeves have a habit of wearing. If you get the Superior shift kit I recommended, you can order it with a new steel regulator valve and sleeve.
I replace the solenoid body on EVERY E4OD I build. Trust me, I've built ALOT of them! The E4OD was never known for being a real reliable transmission. There are many updates/changes I make when I build them.
What did the direct clutches look like?

Bet you thought I only built 4L60E's, huh?:cool:

Frank
CPT

all the other clutches look like new....the previous owner bought a reman from the dealer, It only has 20-30k on it......I think your on the right track by the valve sticking, It does have some of the upgrades, sprag and race



4L60's.....I see You know your stuff :D :bow: :bow: :bow:

o.k. frank I found my problem just don't know what caused it the revers drum......all the clutches in this rans look o.k. but the steels are smoked

I got everything just waitong on this reverse drum, will be here in the morning. Any special tools or tips for putting it back together, this thing is pretty intimidating...there are a lot of parts

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p46/mdacton/Picture036.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p46/mdacton/Picture037.jpg

What's in this picture is the "effect", not the "cause" The friction teeth eating into the drum is what I see here.

I'll get back to you on the tools. I've gotta get some transmissions built right now, or I'll have customers screaming at me...LOL

We're a little backed up right now. OK, we're alot backed up!

Frank
CPT

Not alot of special tools needed, but you'll have a hard time getting the O/D / Int. piston housing back down without the tool I use. It's got to be compressed to overcome the spring for the Int. piston.

Frank
CPT

I wish I woulda had ya build me the A4LD that's in my beater '94 Ranger now Frank :( It's got a serious hunk of **** for a rebuild in it.. oh well. Stocker lasted about 130k miles.

well I will probly just make that compressor....I have some descent fabrication skills and have made most of my other tools. Thanks for your help frank.

well frank the trans turned out good....then this morning I got a phone call....no forward no reverse. I pulled the t-case off and the inside of the planetary was just ripped apart. I never found what burned up my reverse. Someone I talked to said when the inside slider on the t-case...bushings on the fork wear out the gear will ride on the planet pinion gear going down the highway , was also told this would cause my trans problem with the reverse.


I have good reverse engagement now crisp but never found my original problem.

was also told this would cause my trans problem with the reverse.





I've never heard of that causing a reverse problem before.

Frank

I can't figure out what caused it...I did fix a broken spring in the valve body about 6 months ago but don't remember whitch one......once I rebuild this t-case i'm done with it.

Much respect to you trans guys.....Its not for me, I hate a snap ring and my hands are too big to do most of the stuff.

Thanks for the help