446rwhp - A-trim: What would YOU do next???

Well,

Current setup: short shifting at 5500rpm (stock fuel cutoff)
-Stock bore - dished forged pistons
-Stock crank
-Stock rods
-240in-190ex cfm on the heads at .550
-218-230-114 cam
-M6
-A-trim Vortech - 7psi
-yadaya bolt-ons...

Car made more power than I would have thought on a hot day (90F), no tuning what so ever!, 24lb injectors w/ FMU - 446rw and 435ftlb...

I guess my question pertains to the fact that I'd like to make more horsepower (500rwhp)....while minimizing investment....

I plan to upgrade to an S-trim and water injection...or some mix of alky to supplement fuel.

Just thinking out loud and looking for opinions. I'm thinking max out the 'S' with stock injectors and FMU with an injection system to deliver alcohol to cover any fuel I might need.

Constructive criticism welcome ofcourse.

-Scott.

you need some injectors first off, next would be fuel pump and a tune. With tuning and adquate fuel the car should make more power. Give more info about the car: Headers(lt/shorty)? compression ratio? tb, cutouts?

you need some injectors first off, next would be fuel pump and a tune. With tuning and adquate fuel the car should make more power. Give more info about the car: Headers(lt/shorty)? compression ratio? tb, cutouts?


I'm with this guy as far as advice. Stock pump (especially an old one) is a liability although a booster in line pump helps, FMU just pours fuel into the engine to keep it out of detonation and protect it but many times tend to be inconsistent, and a tune with proper fuel supply and appropriately sized injectors will find you some horsepower, and chemical intercooling is good for a lot of reasons, but I wouldn't use it as a way to make up for a weak fuel system.

If you upgrade head units, don't bother stopping on the S. Go straight to the T. The only disadvantage is that it's a little louder (V1 with straight cut gears like the A-trim).

Mike

If you upgrade head units, don't bother stopping on the S. Go straight to the T. The only disadvantage is that it's a little louder (V1 with straight cut gears like the A-trim).

Mike



however you still have stock rods which might cause a problem...do you have the stock rod bolts in there as well or were they upgraded?How about the mains? studs or bolts? If not to neither I wouldnt push it and the T-trim is alot louder but sounds bad-ass.

however you still have stock rods which might cause a problem...do you have the stock rod bolts in there as well or were they upgraded?How about the mains? studs or bolts? If not to neither I wouldnt push it and the T-trim is alot louder but sounds bad-ass.

The thing is that the T-trim doesn't make any more boost or flow any more air than the S. It's just more efficient and can be spun faster if desired.

Mike

The thing is that the T-trim doesn't make any more boost or flow any more air than the S. It's just more efficient and can be spun faster if desired.

Mike
Doesnt make anymore boost/flow more at the same PSI? or max??
I was under the impression that the S was comparable to the P1 and the T was comparable to the D1?

The S and the T will make the same boost and flow the same air on any given pulley combination. The T makes more power because it is more efficient. Also, the T doesn't choke as soon, so the ultimate power potential is greater.

Mike

There's much more power to be tuned out of that combo.

Trash the FMU and get some 36# injectors and a dyno tune on that setup and you'll probably see a 25+ rwhp increase.

I'd go with the T-trim (if you like Vortech... personally I like self-contained oiling systems) and some 42# injectors if you plan on going that route. At some point, the 10.5:1 compression is going to get the best of you. You might want to think of getting some bigger CC heads to lower the compression if you don't want to invest in a shortblock.

Mike

36# injectors will still be limiting if you're headed for 500 rwhp. Don't go any less than 42#. Custom tune for sure!

Thanks all,

Give more info about the car: Headers(lt/shorty)? compression ratio? tb, cutouts?

slomarao,

-LT Hookers, 3"Y, 4" Mufflex w/ the Flowmaster
-4.000 SRP's ~9:1
-Stock throttle body
-Crane box/coil
-Comp rollers
-Hard PVC intake
---Decent build really - I think limitations are the rods, fuel, and blower.



If you upgrade head units, don't bother stopping on the S. Go straight to the T. The only disadvantage is that it's a little louder (V1 with straight cut gears like the A-trim).


Mike,

Man I would really like to get the T-trim but it is more expensive than the S (through Vortech). I can trade in or get the 'A' rebuilt to 'S' specs for $900 - $1000 the last time I checked with them.


however you still have stock rods which might cause a problem...do you have the stock rod bolts in there as well or were they upgraded?How about the mains? studs or bolts? If not to neither I wouldnt push it and the T-trim is alot louder but sounds bad-ass.


TransAm396,

Both the rods and mains are ARP bolts. But yes, I still cringe thinking about it once in a while.... Limiter at 5500 eases my mind a bit. With this cam, I really should be shifting at 6000 I'd imagine.


Thanks to all for the input. I'll give it some more thought. I have 50# MSD injectors laying around (I am aware of the suspected problems at high fuel pressure levels). I could install those, ditch the FMU and dyno tune it. In parallel I would upgrade to an S or T trim w/ gaseous intercooling. When I start running out of fuel I could do dual intake pumps.

Sounds expensive :D

Thanks again,

-Scott.

36# injectors will still be limiting if you're headed for 500 rwhp. Don't go any less than 42#. Custom tune for sure!

I have 36# with 514rwhp through an auto (530+ through a 6-speed) and a high flow fuel pump. My car gets 20 city and 27 hwy with 3.73s and runs 11.20s on street tires :shrug:

I have 36# with 514rwhp through an auto (530+ through a 6-speed) and a high flow fuel pump. My car gets 20 city and 27 hwy with 3.73s and runs 11.20s on street tires :shrug:

Do you know the duty cycle? ....I would think quite maxed out, no?

btw Kraest, what are your mods to get to that 500+ whp level? I ask because when/if finances ever right around I might get a '97 C5 if I can find a good deal and do something "simple" like a low boost charger and some bolt on's. How much boost are you pushing?