I was getting ready to start building the enclosure for my subs and wanted to give the specs a once over, it appears my buddy may have fibbed when he said everything should work together.

The subs I have RF P110S4 show they are good for 150 watts RMS and 300 peak @ 4 ohms
The amp Sony xplode XM-1652Z says it puts out 1000x2 RMS @ 4 ohms and at 2 ohms puts out 500x2

From what I understand the two subs will take 300 RMS combined and the amp would cook them. Is this right or am I off my rocker and don't understand how this works?

 

What's the deal with that amp? Other than the fact that it's a poor quality Exploder? Most high quality amps produce more watts into a 2ohm load than they do a 4ohm load. Not the other way around.

If the subs are 4ohms each and you wire them together in parallel you end up with a 2ohm load. Which will be 250W to each sub (500Wx2 @ 2ohms). Even if the subs were 8ohms each you could wire them in parallel for a 4ohm load and still be able to use that amp. If the amp truely produces 1000W into 4ohms (which I doubt) you just need to set the gain properly and you won't have any problems. Too often people try to use the gain control as a volume control. They figure the higher I turn it up the louder it gets so that must be OK. It aint so.

 

I'm aware it's not considered "ideal", but my buddy moved on to a bigger setup and sold it all to me for cheaper than any one of the componets new so it was the right price, worse case scenario is that the amp will die and I'll buy a new one, no biggie. I looked up the specs on several other sites and they all said the same thing 1000x2 @4ohms and 500x2 @ 2ohms, in case anyone is interested here are several links.

http://www.epinions.com/Sony_Xplod_2...ay_~full_specs

http://www.mysimon.com/Car-Amplifier...l?pid=30042292

http://www4.shopping.com/xPO-Sony-So...www.google.com



anyone have any ideas why it would be backwards in it's 2 ohm to 4ohm output? I'm mildly interested now.

 

I'm guessing that it's a typo that went un-detected somehow. To have the power figures backwards like that just doesn't make any sense.

 

but I found the same specs at close to a dozen websites........leads me to believe it's not a typo

 

Sony never puts RMS wattage on amp exterior - only peak power
This seems more right:
http://shopping.yahoo.com/p:Sony%20X...ier:1994234602
It's 165W RMS x 2:


RMS Power 165 Watts x 2
Peak Power 380 Watts x 2
Output Details 165 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.04% - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s), 200 Watt - 2 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.1% - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s), 400 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 0.1% - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s)
Output Power 1000 Watt
Input Signal Voltage 1.2 - 12V, 0.3 - 6V
Total Harmonic Distortion 0.04%, 0.1%, 0.1%

It's class AB so it probably will be hot as hell doing it's job, but have no reason not to work.

 

Well if Sony made the typo then all their distributors would have the same bogus info.

 

If those figures are accurate then it would be a poor choice for a subwoofer amp IMO.

 

so when I mount the amp................
make sure it has some room to dissipate heat and run the subs in parallel and everything should be good to go?


anyone mind answering a few more questions????


The amp also has a high level input, it's a square plug, what's that?

has a on/off switch that says LPF (80Hz) what's that?

A **** witha flat tip screwdriver slot in it, beside it it says (BTL) at the bottom it says "level" and it also has a bunch of numbers around it 6, 4, 2, 1 0.5 and 0.3v ................is this the gain?

a bunch of gold screws on it, has a plus and minus for each side right and left but there is a line drawn on the amp connecting the plus on the left the minus on the right, it's marked BTL what does this mean?


I assume 12V is from the battery and GND goes to the chassis, whats the REM connection for?

 

If it's 165X2 wouldn't it be almost perfect for the subs I have?

 

If your subs are both 4ohm each I would not recommend wiring them in parallel and using that amp bridged to 1 channel.

Those are speaker level inputs for when your HU doesn't have RCA outputs.

LPF = Low Pass Filter set at 80Hz so the amp can be used with a subwoofer. It blocks the mids and highs and only allows bass below 80Hz to pass.

The **** is the amp's gain control. It is very important that you adjust this correctly and not use it as a volume control.

That's how you bridge the channels together.

REM is the remote Turn On lead.

 

If you want to run stereo subwoofers it will work. Whether or not it's enough power to suit your needs depends on the music you listen to and how loud you want it to be. 165W per subwoofer is a little on the light side for most people.

 

where should i set the gain at then?
what do I hook up to the remote turn on lead?

I'll try the amp out see how it works and worse case scenario I'll get something else. No biggie.

 

It depends on the output voltage from your HU. Whatever you do don't just crank it up because it makes the subs louder. If you force the amp into hard clipping you risk damaging the speakers.

If you are using the amp with an after-market HU the remote turn on lead will be there. If you have a Firebrid you can tap into the remote antenna lead. If you have a Camaro you'll have to wire one in yourself.

 

Now that you mention it I think I remember seeing that wire when I was soldering together the harness last week.

thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.