HELP: Car dies once Warmed up

Edit: Datamaster File here http://putstuff.putfile.com/63772/5103896/3

I took the car in for the o2 sensor and fuel filter. He ended up welding the exhaust leak right by the o2 sensor and changing the fuel filter. It fixed my check enine light. That was all I wanted, so I thought I was good.

When I went to leave the car had been running for about 20-25 minutes and I tried to back up and it stalled and wouldnt start. We then put a NEW battery in the car! So after about 10-15 minutes it fires right over. We talk for 5 minutes while it runs.....I go to leave and it died the same exact way. It sputters when you try to rev on it then just dies and wont re-start.

So I left the car there and came back 3 hours later. It started right up and I drove it about 3 miles home. As I come around the last corner the sputter came back and it died a block from my house.:confused:

So to recap: Fresh fuel filter, fresh exhaust weld fixing o2 sensor, once the car is warm it develops a sputter ans stalls. It will re-start once it cools down.

fuel filter installed backwards? Maybe?

does it throw any codes when this happens?

Throwing codes would make the check engine light come on right? If so then no codes. No lights.

the car wont start or not even turn over? you said you tried a new battery. did you check all wiring around where he connected the o2's? kind of strange.

i have been told that welding can damage the computer and other electronics if the battery is not diconnected before hand. maybe an old wives tale, i dont know.

The car will start fine when its cold. Once it gets up to temp it sputters and dies. Let it sit for 15 minutes and it fires up fine again.

The place I took it to the best shop in town and I have been going there for 8 years. I will get it back to them if no one here has any more thoughts. Just thought I would try the Camaro "experts". Thanks guys.

fuel filter installed backwards? Maybe?

not possible.

Did he arc weld on the exhaust, adjacent to the O2 sensor, with the O2 sensor still installed? If so, there's a good chance it fried the O2 sensor. They can not stand much in the way of electrical current. They are so sensitive that you can toast them simply by probing them with a low impedance multi-meter.

There are codes that don't turn on the SES light.

Did he arc weld on the exhaust, adjacent to the O2 sensor, with the O2 sensor still installed? If so, there's a good chance it fried the O2 sensor.
Thats a possiblity, but would a bad o2 sensor make the car die like this? If so wouldnt the SES light be back on?

After some research, could it be an ignition control module? Also, the coil is different than the ICM right?

After some research, could it be an ignition control module? Also, the coil is different than the ICM right?

It is a possibility. And yes, the coil is different from the ICM.

Something like this happened to me once...how is the fuel pressure when the car is hot??? My pump would quit once it got hot...and would be fine once it cooled down...took me a couple of days to figure that one out...just a thought:shrug:

Yeah i would go with the ICM.

Will a fuel pump still "hum" when you turn the key to on if the pump is bad?

i had the same problem try the mass air flow sensor

Will a fuel pump still "hum" when you turn the key to on if the pump is bad?

Sure.... it might make even more noise if its bad. Or it might not run at all, and might not make any noise at all.

Im going to get vague stuff like this. Sorry for clogging up the internet Fred.

What is "vague" about my answer? Sorry you took it that way - it was dead serious. Sound is not the way to judge the health of a fuel pump. It could sound perfectly "normal" (on the quiet side) and not be able to meet the flow requirements of the engine. Or it might make a loud whine, or it might not run at all.

OK thats all I wondered cause it still makes noise. Im going to buy the laptop cable and scan it.

Check the fuel pressure at max engine load/RPM.

one quick question,

if it was running out of gas wouldnt the o2 sensors throw a "Lean" code like 02 bank 1 lean?

Just Wondering


Don

There are two different "lean" codes, and its doubtful they would set an SES light with loss of fuel from the fuel pump.

P0171/P0174 (Bank 1 lean/Bank 2 lean) set when the long term fuel corrections approach their limits (21.9%), and it would take a longer period of operation for the long terms to ratchet up that high. You'd be out of gas before the long terms changed that much.

P0131/P0137 set when the O2 sensor reads lean at 40mV or less. But it has to check 400 samples and have 380 of them fall below 40mV in that sample. Losing fuel from a low tank level would be sporadic, and might not produce the required number of failures.

The last time my fuel pump failed, I got the po 171 and po 174 codes.

Problem solved!! Appearently my motor has been swapped for a 96-97 LT1 because my opti spark is VENTED! It appears as though there is a hose that needs to vent back into the intake. That tube was laying open in the engine bay and my mechanic plugged it! As soon as my NEW mechanic unplugged that tube it ran beautiful!!

So I guess I need the part number for the L-shapped plastic insert that goes in the intake elbow for this tube to attach to.

Thanks to ALL those who have helped and offered opinions.