My Car Sucked at the track....

Ok... I have not been to the track in over 3 years... (got my car new in 2000);)

Since then, my car has gotten a New Z06 clutch, 4:10 gears, Edelbrock torque arm and boxed trailing arms. I have 94K miles... change to NGK plugs about 10K miles ago with new MSD wires. My car dynoed 310 to the wheels N/A last year before the gears.

NOW... I do have a issue... My car is showing the upper CAT code, I guess they are Bad?

Anyway, I ran
14.0 at 102.9 2.27 60ft
13.9 at 101 2.12 60ft.
and over REV third and redlighted... went 14.6@100 2.3 60ft

I suck...

ANYWAY... my best time prior was 13.5 at 104... no suspension mods and stock 3.42

Oh... I was going 12.8 at almost 114 with the 75 shot of NOS...

What do you think???:confused:

Probably weather/track conditions, and what about your tires? :think: 60' times are kinda crap :rolleyes:.

But don't worry, you're not alone ... I've run 14's, then mid 13's, then low 13's, then 14's again!! :D Like I said, conditions can make it or break it sometimes :shrug:.

My tires are brand new only 3 weeks old... speed rated Z or W michelin Brand.

My 60ft is crappy... I did get a 2.1 which is my best LOL...

But I have gone mid 13s with with a 2.2 60ft

if the cats are clogged ur engine cant make as much power... thus slower times...

have you had it tuned? How bad is the wheelspin?

no tune on this car... I HAVE a ZO6 mass air...


wheels spin is not that bad...

Was your car throwing the code when you had it dyno'd 310rwhp?

Your MPH indicates either a serious lack of power (possibly due to the cats), or that you granny-shift with the worst of them. ;)

My car dyno'd 313 at the wheels (m6 with 4.10s) and went 12.52 @ 110.04.

Ben T.

Was your car throwing the code when you had it dyno'd 310rwhp?

Your MPH indicates either a serious lack of power (possibly due to the cats), or that you granny-shift with the worst of them. ;)

NO my car started throwing the code about 2 months ago... I had is cleared in the computer but it keeps coming back :eek: so I am looking at some MAC MIDS with ORY

My car dyno'd 313 at the wheels (m6 with 4.10s) and went 12.52 @ 110.04.

Ben T.


Ben,

are you running DR tires? That is a KILLER TIME FOR JUST BOLT ONS.:D

What are you coming out on off the line? 3K rpm?

I am at 4th gear going through the traps...i am guessing 4-5 rpm

no tune on this car... I HAVE a ZO6 mass air...

:irk: Honestly, you want to know why you've lost performance when you have a converter code (possible partially clogged cat), and a known problem maker in that non-stock MAF?

Anyway, I ran
14.0 at 102.9 2.27 60ft
13.9 at 101 2.12 60ft.
went 14.6@100 2.3 60ft

I've always ran 13s with those 60' times. I'm just speculating, but it seems like your car isn't pulling as hard as it's supposed to be, up top.

How's Bithlo these days? I should have gone Friday but didn't.

Is the track prep decent and how are the crowds?

My car dyno'd 313 at the wheels (m6 with 4.10s) and went 12.52 @ 110.04.
What tires? Any suspension mods?

I've always ran 13s with those 60' times. I'm just speculating, but it seems like your car isn't pulling as hard as it's supposed to be, up top.

How's Bithlo these days? I should have gone Friday but didn't.

Is the track prep decent and how are the crowds?

Track is pretty decent... crowds are good... I left early but still got 3 runs within 7-9pm could have gotten a 4th easy.

:irk: Honestly, you want to know why you've lost performance when you have a converter code (possible partially clogged cat), and a known problem maker in that non-stock MAF?

Converter...yeah I am think that...

Also... the MAF is not necessary non-stock. I is a ported/descreened factory MAF:bow:

Ported MAF ends and descreening on the LS1 is a big no-no. They can be even more of a problem than an aftermarket MAF.

It may be the car or the driver.
At this point its hard to tell.

I have seen a bad driver pull a full second off his 1/4 mile time just by being trained to launch properly. (Case in point was a 17yr old driving a then new Mach 1.. He started off running 14.1's then after about 5 trips to the track in 1 month and learning how to do it right, he repeated 13.1's...)

So.. How are you launching?
Whats your technique in detail.. How high are you revving? Are you dumping the clutch or feathering it? I wouldnt expect high MPH with the 4.10s but I do expect a hugh gain in et..
Whats the air pressure in your tires? Are you doing dry spins or going for burnouts?

All these things matter so its good to let us know so we can help guide you to quicker times!

That was with the stock suspension and a 6600 RPM clutch dump on 27" ET streets. Only suspension mods were boxed in (welded OEM) LCAs. This was also in 85* south louisiana humid air. Every upshift was at WOT but using the clutch. Be advised, this is also a GREAT way to tear your car up. ET/MPH will be improved, but I only recommend this if you can fix it WHEN you tear it up.

Again @ 313rwhp.:cool: Full weight daily driver still getting 26mph on the interstate with 4.10s.

Ben T.

I took my 2000 SS M6 down the track at the beginning of October and ran 14.07@102.???. The stock 3:23 gears, stock tires, freemods, K&N, and ZO6 clutch. It was back in october 69 degrees. Spun the hell out of 2nd. for about 40ft. staying in the hole time. Even put it some what side ways. Oh, and launched at 3 grand.

Again @ 313rwhp.:cool: Full weight daily driver still getting 26mph on the interstate with 4.10s.
Ben T.

Lid, Loudmouth, Yank 3500, 3.42 gears, 26" ET streets with 312 rwhp 12.15 @ 110 in a full weight (3600 pounds with me in the car) complete street car.

STR for the win, Al.

Ben T.

Ported MAF ends and descreening on the LS1 is a big no-no. They can be even more of a problem than an aftermarket MAF.

DIDn't know that.... I guess if I get tune I would see it.

I am just concerned with the lose of ET .4-.5 10ths is alot to me...:confused:

the MPH i guess could be from the gears.

It may be the car or the driver.
At this point its hard to tell.

I have seen a bad driver pull a full second off his 1/4 mile time just by being trained to launch properly. (Case in point was a 17yr old driving a then new Mach 1.. He started off running 14.1's then after about 5 trips to the track in 1 month and learning how to do it right, he repeated 13.1's...)

So.. How are you launching? I avoid the water box... do quick 2-3second burnout to clean the tires...pull to the line and give it about 2000 to 2200 RPM. I then feather out of the hole and FLOOR it about 4000 RPM... quick shift to 2nd... positive shift to 3rd and quick shift 4th... (quick shift is NOT POWER SHIFTING) but I stay all the way in the gas. car is trapping near the top of 4th gear.
Whats your technique in detail.. How high are you revving? Are you dumping the clutch or feathering it? I wouldnt expect high MPH with the 4.10s but I do expect a hugh gain in et..
Whats the air pressure in your tires? Are you doing dry spins or going for burnouts? factory size tires traction A temp A z or w rated speed tire... dry spinning... No WARREN JOHNSON here.... stock air pressure

All these things matter so its good to let us know so we can help guide you to quicker times!

I hope you can help... I am thinking right NOW MAC MIDs and ORY to get rid of the bad front cats... and SLP ram air and bellows... then get a dyno tune:bow:

Lid, Loudmouth, Yank 3500, 3.42 gears, 26" ET streets with 312 rwhp 12.15 @ 110 in a full weight (3600 pounds with me in the car) complete street car.

NICE...:bow:

I hope my LSx C3 runs that fast... I am guessing high 12s

346 out of 2000 vette
stock 6.0 heads
comp cam 224 581/581
edelbrock carb intake
680 DP holley
covette manifolds
2.5 MAD chambered dual exhaust
TH350 auto
hughes 10in 3000 stall
factory IRS with 3.36 gears

I hope you can help... I am thinking right NOW MAC MIDs and ORY to get rid of the bad front cats... and SLP ram air and bellows... then get a dyno tune :bow:

Power shifting = staying on the gas while you shift. So unless I've misunderstood your explanation, you are powershifting.

Power shifting = staying on the gas while you shift. So unless I've misunderstood your explanation, you are powershifting.

I use the clutch, to fully engage it... my understand is people slip the clutch when they powershift... thus running the risk of clutch or transmission failure...

I speed shift... not powershift.

just my .02

I use the clutch, to fully engage it... my understand is people slip the clutch when they powershift... thus running the risk of clutch or transmission failure...
All of the descriptions I've read/heard of powershifting say that you should push the clutch in just enough to disengage (i.e. don't push all the way to the floor).

Not sure what exactly you mean by "slip the clutch" in the context of changing gears under power. Can you elaborate?

All of the descriptions I've read/heard of powershifting say that you should push the clutch in just enough to disengage (i.e. don't push all the way to the floor).

Not sure what exactly you mean by "slip the clutch" in the context of changing gears under power. Can you elaborate?

Types of shifting
First, let’s talk about three different types of shifting and show the progression from slow and easy to fast and, umm, nope- we won’t go there.

Granny Shifting
When we first learn about the mysteries of the manual transmission and that third little pedal on the left we all heard something like this- “Ok-wiggle the stick and make sure it is in neutral, gently push in the clutch all the way, carefully push the stick into first gear and slowly release the clutch and give it a little gas.” This would result in one of two outcomes- a hard lurch and stall or almost no perceptible forward motion and the sweet odor of burning clutch accompanied by shouts of “Let it out! Let it out!” Once the car actually moved in first you would repeat the process for each successive gear shifting as high as 3000 rpm and letting off the gas between shifts. With practice you could do this smoothly and even quickly, conjuring visions of Dan Gurney blasting down the Mulsanne straight.

Today, we politely call this process Granny shifting- guaranteed to prolong the life of both transmission and clutch and not raise any eyebrows with your local patrol officers.

Speed Shifting
If you are reading this then you assuredly moved on to the next stage, which we call Speed Shifting. Once you had a taste of a couple of stoplight acceleration contests you realized that the time spent between shifts was wasted, especially if you went up against an automatic, or worse, an auto with a shift kit. With each shift your opponent would gain a small advantage. With practice, you can click off really quick speed shifts by slightly lifting off the throttle with your right foot at the same time you stab the clutch with your left foot and slam the stick into the next gear with you right hand (or left, for those Down-Under and other such exotic places.) Now there is very little loss of acceleration between shifts and you can hang with your buddy’s automatic.

Spending some time at the track helps to refine the technique and prepares you for the final stage in shifting evolution- Power Shifting!


Power Shifting
Ever listen a manual car down the race track? You can tell the good drivers from the not so good simply by the sound of the engine at each shift.

The Granny Shifters sound like this- Waaaaaaaaa! -moment of silence- Wuh, Waaaaaaaaa!

The good Speed Shifters sound like this- Waaaaaaa !-tiny delay- Waaaaaaaa! With less rpm drop the engine does not bog down going into the next gear- you might even hear a good Bark! from the rear tires.

The Power Shifters sound like this Waaaaaaa! WHAA! Waaaaaaa! WHAA! Waaaaaa! WHAA! Waaaaa! and bark the tires in all gears (unless on slicks.) The rpms not only don’t drop- they actually go up between shifts since the throttle is wide open the whole time!

How to Powershift
The Power Shift Shuffle goes something like this- the gas pedal goes to the floor and stays there- never lift! Preload the stick by pulling on it before you reach your shift point. At the pivotal moment simultaneously KICK the clutch pedal and slam the stick into the next gear. Time it right and you will see the rpms climb 200 to 500 rpm between gears and feel a strong surge as the next gear engages. I started power shifting only the 3 to 4 shift my last track day of 2001. It is the easiest shift, straight back, with time to prepare mentally while 3rd winds out. I was able to knock off a pair of 13.50 runs that day and go home grinning from ear to ear. It was time to go to the next level and see if I could actually improve on those mid-13’s.
:bow:

http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/essentials/fixit/heeltoe/shifting.htm

power shift defined

This is an advanced technique that gives a speed boost to the car when upshifting. This should only be used in racing applications (and probably only in very short races), as it is very hard on drivetrain components, especially if done improperly. Even done properly, it generally puts undue stress on the drivetrain, and shortens the lifespan of the driveline components.

To perform a power shift, keep the gas pedal on the floor (instead of lifting) while pushing in the clutch. At the same time, quickly shift to the next gear. Quickly re-engage ("pop") the clutch as soon as the new gear is selected. If done properly, the car will receive a "bump" in acceleration (due to the jerk of the decelerating engine) as the clutch is re-engaged. If done improperly, it can result in engine or transmission damage, sometimes catastrophic
:eek:

I hope you can help... I am thinking right NOW MAC MIDs and ORY to get rid of the bad front cats... and SLP ram air and bellows... then get a dyno tune:bow:

If you get mids you'll eventually wish you had just gotten LT's.

I run 13.01@108 in a BONE STOCK Z28. Sure its a factory stripper but thats besides the point (I only race with a full tank of gas and the scales say 3390-3410 depending on the temp outside without me in the car, spare and jack have never been moved from the car since day 1)
I shift quickly... I dont power shift.. definately not granny shift but I dont keep the gas buried either between shifts. My car being stock and having stock exhaust sounds like this..
vroom... brooooom, grroooooooooooom, hissssssssss......
Ya.. by the end of third, its too far to hear... Which is how I like it.. hehhe

STR for the win, Al.

Ben T.

The point was that with his rwhp (you with 313 and me with 312 and both running 110mph) he's way off the mark as far as mph goes.