Street twin + Nittos = BOOM!

Even with a weenie 2.017 60', I broke 3 teeth off a spider gear on the 1st pass with the street twin and nittos (Stock 3.42s) :(.

EDIT: Final carnage turned out to be 4 spidergear teeth, and one driveshaft (damaged u-joints/out of balanced) causing a bad vibration at 40+ mph

If you have an M6 and anything stickier than a street tire...look out!

Here's the whole story if you're bored:

First pass at the track with the nittos/street twin combo. Stage, launch at 3k. BAD vibration comes on at the high end of the track. In 4th gear it starts to become obvious something is wrong. Hit the brakes before the end of the run, turn off the exit... "clunk." Drove around pits to confirm "clunk." Drive home with noticable vibration, but not bad enough to get a tow.

Pull the diff cover, find 3 spidergear teeth on the magnet, and some very gritty gear lube! Get working rear end in, take for a spin, vibes still there, 'clunk' while turning is gone. Refurb driveshaft, back to normal.


Ryan - Anyone have a 9" they're trying to sell? :D

Ryan, that's no good :) Sorry to hear that man. Seems some people have problems with stock rears, and others dont. What rpm were you launching at?

Jason

Hey man, 3k rpm dump. Tires actually spun too. It is possible that something happened on the 1-2, 2-3 shift. After the clutch went on the car got pretty violent on shifts :cool:.


Ryan

Was this on the stock rear end? I am purchasing the street twin now, and hope I won't have this problem with the Moser 12 bolt and ET Streets/Hoosier QTPs.

I've seen damage done on the 1-2 shift...Spider gear carnage associated with wheel hop:)

Wierd huh? Some guys break the rear with Nitto Drags, some have even broke the rear with the stock F1 tires!:eek:

And then there are guys who can bang off 6,000 RPM clutch dumps and get a solid 1.6X 60 foot time on ET Streets:) AND they do it more than a few times!:eek:

Originally posted by Grover
Was this on the stock rear end? I am purchasing the street twin now, and hope I won't have this problem with the Moser 12 bolt and ET Streets/Hoosier QTPs.

Yup, stock rear. You will love the Street Twin. Best mod I have done so far, hands down.

I do have some wheel hop since the Street win. Any idea how to fix it? I already have BMR boxed LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, HAL shocks. Running the stock T/A...

Autoroc: Yup...like Jason said, some guys can get away with it, some can't! :think:

I think the Street Twin was too much for my stock rear.

:metal: Street twin :metal:

Ryan

Chevy 10 bolt rears aren't big enough to handle any kind of power adders. I blew out an Auburn and 4.10's on a stock motored SS 6sp. I learned the hard way. Auto's are a little easier on the parts but your twin's will destroy a 10 bolt. Spend the money now on a 12 bolt or (gulp) I hate to say it a 9 inch fffford rearend. It's alot of cash a once but if you don't those 10 bolt posi's and gears will add up to be alot more. Good Luck.

Originally posted by AutoRoc
I've seen damage done on the 1-2 shift...Spider gear carnage associated with wheel hop:)

Wierd huh? Some guys break the rear with Nitto Drags, some have even broke the rear with the stock F1 tires!:eek:

And then there are guys who can bang off 6,000 RPM clutch dumps and get a solid 1.6X 60 foot time on ET Streets:) AND they do it more than a few times!:eek: So far for me its been..
1.LS1 driveshaft
2.Steel D.S and twisted splines in yoke..
3.snapped the out put shaft in 2
4. I'll get back to ya
Street twin is a piece of art IMHO.. i Snapped my output shaft on a 4K drop on Nitto's.. Snapped the D.s on a 5K on et streets. And who knows where or when i twisted those spline.. Lesson learned.. whats cheaper?? Driveshafts?? or T56's?? Put a aluminum d.s in and let it all go.. If it snaps.. Nbd only 100 bux out the window not 300 for the shaft everytime.. Just my .02

Originally posted by 96-speed
Yup, stock rear. You will love the Street Twin. Best mod I have done so far, hands down.

I do have some wheel hop since the Street win. Any idea how to fix it? I already have BMR boxed LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, HAL shocks. Running the stock T/A...


I think the Street Twin was too much for my stock rear.

:metal: Street twin :metal:

Ryan

I have noticed the same problem since my Street Twin install....only I dont have relocation brackets....I think that will be next purchase.

I also was not expecting the amount of clutch chatter that i have....but I'll live with it if it means i dont have to change out another clutch because I killed it at the track.

Originally posted by LVZ2881
I have noticed the same problem since my Street Twin install....only I dont have relocation brackets....I think that will be next purchase.

I also was not expecting the amount of clutch chatter that i have....but I'll live with it if it means i dont have to change out another clutch because I killed it at the track.

My ST seems to be very similar to stock. I had the rear shocks cranked up, so maybe that had something to do with it...???

All I can say is that I won't be going to the track with nittos and the 10bolt again...just too risky :(.

Ryan

Simple solution: Sell me the Street Twin:D

Originally posted by Jim S. '95 Z28
Simple solution: Sell me the Street Twin:D

::waves finger side to side::

:D

Ryan

I had the same problem as you except I broke two spider gears in HALF inside my posi, on ET streets on the regular highway.
What to do..... I upgraded the posi with a Zexel torsion posi unit and put my stock 3.42 gears back in. Upgraded the clutch to a McCleod dual disk and went to the track.
M6 car, 5K dump, ET streets = still no breakage. I made 53 passes this year and still nothing has broke. I have put in a 1LE driveshaft and the Zexel posi but that is it. I run 13.00 @ 107 with a stock LT-1 with long-tube headers, shifter and a cut-out.

If funds are low, put the zexel in, you won't be disappointed.

Originally posted by Black_Z
I had the same problem as you except I broke two spider gears in HALF inside my posi, on ET streets on the regular highway.
What to do..... I upgraded the posi with a Zexel torsion posi unit and put my stock 3.42 gears back in. Upgraded the clutch to a McCleod dual disk and went to the track.
M6 car, 5K dump, ET streets = still no breakage. I made 53 passes this year and still nothing has broke. I have put in a 1LE driveshaft and the Zexel posi but that is it. I run 13.00 @ 107 with a stock LT-1 with long-tube headers, shifter and a cut-out.

If funds are low, put the zexel in, you won't be disappointed.

Is that the SLP option for SS back in 96-97? I picked up a rear form 97 RedSS (Cody). It has the upgraded differential.

Regardless, I am not going back out to the track without a back up!

Ryan

Originally posted by 96-speed
Is that the SLP option for SS back in 96-97? I picked up a rear form 97 RedSS (Cody). It has the upgraded differential.

Regardless, I am not going back out to the track without a back up!

Ryan

You don't have to do all that.

Just sell me your Street Twin, and you'll actually make money:D

Originally posted by Jim S. '95 Z28
You don't have to do all that.

Just sell me your Street Twin, and you'll actually make money:D

Tell you what... I will put it in the mail tomorrow with a few bills. You send me that t-trim and we'll call it even :p .


Ryan

Originally posted by 96-speed
Tell you what... I will put it in the mail tomorrow with a few bills. You send me that t-trim and we'll call it even :p .


Ryan

LOL. Let me sleep on it:D

Sorry to hear that Ryan.:( I hope when I get my M6 in Im not replacing rears on the regular.:o

Another stock rear end broken with just drag radials and a good clutch?

Join the club. :D :D :D

Just to let everyone know... The (stock steel) driveshaft was also thrashed. Had to replace the u-joints and have it rebalanced!


Ryan

Originally posted by IllusionalTA
So far for me its been..
1.LS1 driveshaft
2.Steel D.S and twisted splines in yoke..
3.snapped the out put shaft in 2
4. I'll get back to ya
Street twin is a piece of art IMHO.. i Snapped my output shaft on a 4K drop on Nitto's.. Snapped the D.s on a 5K on et streets. And who knows where or when i twisted those spline.. Lesson learned.. whats cheaper?? Driveshafts?? or T56's?? Put a aluminum d.s in and let it all go.. If it snaps.. Nbd only 100 bux out the window not 300 for the shaft everytime.. Just my .02

And is it worth it? Just curious... (BTW I'm not directing this question specifically towards you but to everyone)

I know the Street Twin is THE clutch to have for high HP stuff but it also seems to be aweful hard on other driveline parts. It seems to me that unless you need the extra holding power you would be better of running something less agressive. I would rather have the clutch give a little than to snap a DS or rearend.

My $.02... :cool:

Originally posted by Soma07
And is it worth it? Just curious... (BTW I'm not directing this question specifically towards you but to everyone)

I know the Street Twin is THE clutch to have for high HP stuff but it also seems to be aweful hard on other driveline parts. It seems to me that unless you need the extra holding power you would be better of running something less agressive. I would rather have the clutch give a little than to snap a DS or rearend.

My $.02... :cool:

Jason: Theoretically that would ideal...but I could have gone easier on it - clutchdump/hard shifting. I was pretty much going 'balls to the wall.' The thing about the street twin is you don't hear too many problems with them (besides breaking other parts). Where it seems like there are several people who have issues with any clutch minus the ST or a stock clutch. The ST grabs like a beast and drives like stock.

To answer your question....yes :). One less thing to worry about!

Ryan