cage question

im picking up a s+w 8 pt, but does anyone make a cage where you dont need to chop up the dash?

An 8pt shouldnt have to chop the dash at all. I think thats only necessary if you go with a 10pt.

An 8-point is usually only a roll bar. The S+W kit is that way..... main hoop (2 pts) + diagonal braces from main hoop to floor (2 pts) + rear braces (2 pts) + diagonal braces to the front ( 2 pts). They sell a 10-point cage with the halo, plus the front supports from the halo to the floor (2 pts).

8-point bar:

http://www.spohn.net/productimages/8_point_big.jpg

10-point cage:

http://www.spohn.net/productimages/10_point_big.jpg

I believe you could modify the front supports to miss the dash, putting the cross-bar across the outside of the dash. But they will make access to the front of the car even more difficult and look fairly obtrusive, compared to front supports that hug the A-pillars, go through the corners of the dash cover and puts the cross-bar inside the dash.

How fast do you plan on making your car? A full 10pt roll cage legal from 9.99 to 8.50 seconds in the 1/4 mile. NHRA requires a full roll cage if you plan on running faster than 9.99 sec in the 1/4 mile or if you exceed 135mph at any E.T.

How fast do you plan on making your car? A full 10pt roll cage legal from 9.99 to 8.50 seconds in the 1/4 mile. NHRA requires a full roll cage if you plan on running faster than 9.99 sec in the 1/4 mile or if you exceed 135mph at any E.T.

well, when an unnamed defense contractor sends me my checks (holding my breath still on the bid) i will be on the phone with you ordering a 408 longblock with your choice of heads, cam and reasonable rotating asembly..........oh and maybe that s88 turbo you mentioned :cool: and a 150 shot of n20. so instead of doing an 8pt now and having to upgrade later, id like to do the long term work now. dont know what times that/your setup will give me but im sure it will be quicker than my current setup

i dont mind if it has to go thru the dash as long as the dash doesnt get completely destroyed or interferes with foot room for the pedals

I would just go with the 10 point so there is no need to tear the interior out and add it later. Below I have some pictures of a S&W roll cage installed on a '02 Camaro.


http://victoryracingengines.com/albums/Eric-Phillips/MVC_643F.jpg

http://victoryracingengines.com/albums/Eric-Phillips/DSCN1331.sized.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/victoryracing2005/DSCN1626.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c255/victoryracing2005/DSCN1624.jpg

thank you guys. eric, did you have a clearance issue with the stock door trim hitting the side arms, or them hitting the seat? thanks for the pix

The bars actually came straight from S&W. We just put a little kick in them to stay away from the door, and to make the car a little easier to get into.

If you go to the following site you will see a car with a 12 point cage. It's a 10 point with two additional bars going to the front of the car.


http://www.advancedinduction.com/Abare.html

Any way, it shows how the front down bars of the 10 point cage are on the outside of the dash. It's how I'm going to try and do it.

The reason for the 10 point is that the structural strength of the roof bars and the front down bars will prevent the roof from collapsing on you if you get upsided down. At any speed!

Better safe than sorry!