11.55 @ 117 Mph

got the OBDI high stall (no shift) problem fixed and got some good passes on the car.

60ft- 1.66, 1.61, 1.61
330- 4.75, 4.72, 4.71
1/8- 7.35, 7.34, 7.32
MPH- 93.63, 93.53, 93.82
1000- 9.63, 9.62, 9.610
1/4 11.558, 11.552, 11.541
MPH 116.78, 117.03, 117.31

getting 4.4-5.0 degree sof KR the entire run. Not sure if is false or real. I tried pulling 3 degrees to see if that helped and it still tried to pull the same 4.4-5 degrees so maybe it is false. ???????

My alt. is making some noise so that could be it. Also felt like it was a lil lazy shifting and I felt it hit the rev limiter 2-3 times between 1-2 shift on 2nd pass. I still have the stock 80K transmission so that might be it. I'll try raising the limiter a lil and see what happens.

97 T/A, 383, LE2 heads, LE2 cam, ported intake, 58 MM TB, Yank 3000, 3.42 gears, 17" DR's, STOCK suspension (factory torque arm, shocks, LCA, etc). I have the front sway disconnected and no rear floor mats (forgot to put them back in after vacuuming car, LOL.

Nice times Lloyd. What were the track conditions like, DA, track prep etc.?

Any chance the knock sensor wire is picking up electrical interference from a nearby plug wire, or some interference from the alternator problems?

badass , all there is to say. :)

Great numbers Lloyd.:bow:

I guess your passes were at Ennis (just down the road from you there at Red Oak)? Ennis (Texasmotorplex) is a really great track! My car runs almost 3 tenths faster at Ennis, than here in OKC. Additionally, most cars from OKC are 2 to 3 tenths quicker there.

The NHRA Div-4 Bracket Finals are at Ennis every year and I enjoy coming down to Texas for that race. This winter I need to get down to Irving and pick-up a Wolfe 6-Point roll bar.

WD

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634

it was about 55 degrees but had a 10-15 MPH head wind. Not really sure about the DA.

It was at Ennis Texas Motorplex and they were on top of the track prep. I have a stock rear with 3.42's and it "single tracked" twice in the burn out box but the car barely spun at all on the 17" M/T DR's with 18 PSI.

No plug wires are near the knock sensor but there are starter wires, O2 wires, etc all around it. Not sure what is causing the KR (or if irt is real or false) but my alternator has a loud "screaching" noise about 90% of the time. It did not start doing this until recently. I never see the voltage vary but the alt. is clearly making noise.

I just need to go to the track and disable the knock module (to eliminat that variable) and then play with timing to see if it is needing/wanting more or less and then keep looking at the time slips for results.

It is trying to put in 37 degrees from 4000 RPM up and the KR is bringing it down to 32-33 degrees. If the engine really "wants" 32-33 degrees, there will not be any gain but if the engine wants more (35-38 degrees), it could get even faster.

Lloyd Pull the belt off and make a pass. If the alternator is the problem that should show it. Frank95z

I thought about that on the way home from the track, LOL.

I am taking the alt. back to Oreilleys and getting warrantied today so I might not have to worry about it any more. If it makes the noise at the track next time, I'll just pull the belt and see what happens.

I'll probably disable the KR and see what happens by slowy pulling timing instead of the knock sensor pulling timing.

Nice Lloyd, those 7.30 1/8th miles are good for 11.40's so the timing or the headwind was hurting you. Put some skinnies up front and 15x8" rims out back and pickup another couple tenths. Goodluck Later Clint

Very nice Lloyd.:cool:

good job llyod

Def got more in it Lloyd. The 3.42 gears aren't exactly ideal either. I just trapped 115mph yesterday with my stock bottom end LE2 head and you know the cam I'm running (smaller than the LE2). Good work for the 2nd time out though. Keep at it.

Nice! :)

thanks for the comments.

We all "think" there is more left in our set ups with a few changes though, lol.

I am probably done with the Motorplex since they told me after every pass "if you run an 11.49 or faster, you'll have to get a roll cage".

I'll just run some 1/8 mile tracks since I have no plans of a cage. Maybe they are not as strict on their "roll cage" rule.

No plans on changing gears. 3.42's in OD is 2100 RPM at 70 MPH with my 275/40/17's. Only changes MIGHT BE some 15" Drag stars for track use but the 17"s (2002 WS6 wheels) look sweet and nobody expects my car to leave like that with 17"s.

I'll tune it out on motor and then install a 75-100 shot of NOS. If the trans holds, I might get a 6.99 1/8 mile from it at over 3800 lbs (with my 205 lb fat ass and lil over 1/2 a tank of gas).

thanks for the comments.

I am probably done with the Motorplex since they told me after every pass "if you run an 11.49 or faster, you'll have to get a roll cage".

I'll just run some 1/8 mile tracks since I have no plans of a cage. Maybe they are not as strict on their "roll cage" rule.

NHRA doesn't require a "cage" at 11.49 for a "full interior" car, only a roll "bar" and typically a 6-point is used. Additionally, the 6-point bar is good down to 10.00. Then at 9.99, you must have a complete cage. NHRA has relaxed the roll-bar requirement down-from 11.99 to 11.49 (possibly in 2005).

Also, Ennis is a "very nice" and "really fast" track! I ran almost 3 tenths quicker there (11.22 @ 119.31) than most tracks here in Oklahoma (11.50). I also had the roll-bar issue while there. I really like that track, wish we had one that nice here in Oklahoma

So to fix the 11.49 and below problem, I'm headed over to Wolfe Racecraft in Irving Texas in a few weeks to pickup one of their chromemoly 6-points. Also, sometimes things do go wrong at the track, possibly the car in the other lane “out-of-control” even though you’re in-control, then things get real ugly. Therefore, when you're running at a 120 MPH it doesn't hurt to have that 6-point roll-bar protection. Additionally, I've seen more drag racing wreaks in the past two years, then the previous 10 years. People are pushing the envelope more and more these days I guess.

WD

I'll tune it out on motor and then install a 75-100 shot of NOS. If the trans holds, I might get a 6.99 1/8 mile from it.


That shouldn't be a problem at ALL! :) Depends on the nitrous kit, too.

Nice numbers. :)

What's this 383/LE set up dyno?
Who is doing the tuning?

Nice times, it's street driven I take it?

Randy

I had originally paid $400 for a dyno tune and had a goofy shaped graph that made 389 RWHP and 353 RWTQ. The car felt like a high 12 second car then, LOL.

After checking alot of things and finding nothing wrong with lifters, rocker adjustment, o2's, exhaust leaks, etc, etc, I decided to try Bryans mail order tune (PCMforless) and have not dynoed since but it was like night and day in EVERY aspect of the car. Idle, crusing, mid range, top end, part throttle, full throttle, etc, etc.

I would sugguest ANYONE wanting a dyno tune to get a base tune from Bryan and then have the dyno tuners tweak that tune instead of starting from scratch. This gives them a MUCH better platform to work from.

Only adjustments to this tune was the OBDI high stall fix from Bryan and then I tried pulling 3 degrees with a buddys Tuner Cats to try and eliminate 4.4-5.0degrees of KR with no success. Timing was put right back in since it did not help KR any.

The tune calls for 34 degrees and the scan shows 37 degrees. Bryan says that 34 is the actual timing and the scan adds 2-3 degrees that is not there so the 37 degrees is not correct. If this is true and I was getting 4.4-5.0 degrees of KR, I was actually getting 29-29.5 degrees of timing and that seems WAY LOW for optimium power. I'll have to zero out the knock at 90-100% throttle and play with timing for best track times.

HOPEFULLY I find some good gains from playing with timing but time will tell. We all think we have more left in our set ups but with only 6 passes (3 of those with OBDI high stall problem) in the car, I feel confident there is "something" to be gained.

I had Bryan look at my shift RPM and rev limit since it banged the limiter a few times on 1-2 shift but he said the shift is at 6100 RPM and the rev limiter is set at 7000, LOL so the trans is probably the problem. Might be swapping transmissions pretty soon.

Yea, this set up is very streetable (more so than a 383 with a CC 306 cam) in my opinion. You would not wanna use 2.73 gears and no stall obviously but the 3.42's and 3000 stall work nice with the cam. The cam is in the 230 duration range and that is pretty small for a stroker. I drove it to the track on the 17" DR's and ran it just like I drove in other than letting my wife out before making passes.

It has back seats, stock carpet, all speakers, 12 disc CD changer, all seat belts, etc, etc. It was a lil over 3800 lbs with me in it and that is with out any sub frame connectors, roll bar, 9" or 12 bolt rear end, etc. It is just a heavy car but is moving peretty well. Just a normal fully loaded 97 T/A with a nice 383 and stall.

Nice job Lloyd in a heavy ass car!

Nice 60' with a little stall... I'm starting to think I should switch out to a Yank :/

... I'm starting to think I should switch out to a Yank :/
There should not be any need for that.

Great numbers Lloyd!!!...You know I'm a BIG fan of SMALL cams...mine's a 226/234 and I was "poo-poo'd" because it was "wayyy tooo small" hahahha...You just can't beat the way they drive especially when you drive the thing everywhere...

--Alan

I'll be contacting Nitro Dave about a NOS system when the time comes.

I still have some bugs to work out and possibly a trans to install before that happens.

Maybe by next June/July I'll have it worked out and NOS installed. Being married with two kids, it might actually be October/November of 2010 before that happens, LOL.

ABA,

I have another 4 degrees of intake duration than you but a smaller exhaust lobe than you. I guess they are similar but mine IS a bigger cam. 3.73/4.11's and a 4000/4400 stall would work well with a cam 240 or larger range but the cam I have works well with the gear/stall/weight I have and what I expect from the car.

There should not be any need for that.

Shon, what's your thoughts on the bigger Vigi's as far as efficiency goes. Do they compare well to the bigger Yank's?

Reason I ask is I'll be moving up to a 3800 or 4000 Vigi when I do the tranny rebuild.

Shon, what's your thoughts on the bigger Vigi's as far as efficiency goes. Do they compare well to the bigger Yank's?

Reason I ask is I'll be moving up to a 3800 or 4000 Vigi when I do the tranny rebuild.
Sending PM to not clutter LE's thread.

Nice times Lloyd!!!

Sending PM to not clutter LE's thread.

Kinda like everyone does to AI's threads? Lol. Just kidding. Maybe.:cool:

nice runs! catchin up with me! :)

:thumb: :thumb:

I'll be contacting Nitro Dave about a NOS system when the time comes.


:cool: waiting patiently by the phone:cool: