Pro's & Cons of using a Mallory 685 as window switch?

What are the pros and cons of using a Mallory 685, over other ignition boxes, with N20, and eventually on a blower car?

I want to run a window switch, which I can get dirt cheap, but the mallory already has one built into it right? What are they like to set up/use? Easy to adjust timing with them for n20/blower cars?

Also, just curious, who has them the cheapest?

What are the pros and cons of using a Mallory 685, over other ignition boxes, with N20, and eventually on a blower car?

I want to run a window switch, which I can get dirt cheap, but the mallory already has one built into it right? What are they like to set up/use? Easy to adjust timing with them for n20/blower cars?

Also, just curious, who has them the cheapest?

The nice thing about the 685 is you only have to wire one box to run the Window switch, Timing retard, and Ignition.

We offer this unit as part of our LT1 single nozzle package.

I think its a great all around box, especially if you add up an MSD window switch, MSD timing retard box, and an MSD ignition box, you will exceed the cost of the Mallory box pretty easily. Ray, when did you guys start offering the box as an option in your kits? I ordered my kit from you guys last winter and I didn't hear anything about it, just curious?

I think its a great all around box, especially if you add up an MSD window switch, MSD timing retard box, and an MSD ignition box, you will exceed the cost of the Mallory box pretty easily. Ray, when did you guys start offering the box as an option in your kits? I ordered my kit from you guys last winter and I didn't hear anything about it, just curious?

I am the resident LT1 guy...we started offering the 685 when I came on board.

I am the resident LT1 guy...we started offering the 685 when I came on board.

Oh okay, I think that is a very good idea on your part. Definitely something that complements an LT1 nitrous kit very well.

Oh okay, I think that is a very good idea on your part. Definitely something that complements an LT1 nitrous kit very well.

and it is only about $100 more than our digital window switch, that does not boost ignition signal or retard timing.

and it is only about $100 more than our digital window switch, that does not boost ignition signal or retard timing.

Exactly, that is why I'm such a big fan of that box. Its a good deal for what you get.

The mallory box is probably the best deal out there. As mentioned before, you dont have to go mounting and wiring together all the seperate units to get them to work together, its all in one.

Well, looks like that settles that ... Now I gotta see who has it the cheapest lol.

Will the Mallory work with a delteq ignition system?

Will the Mallory work with a delteq ignition system?

I dont see why it wouldnt..

I apologize for the hijack....but I didn't seem them listed on your website?

Are you guys going to sell them seperately, or just shove 'em in your kits?

We can sell the 685's individually they are priced compareably to Summit

i love my 685 yup! :D

What exactly IS a window switch? I am about to run the zex 125 hp lt1 setup and it comes with a fuel regulator box and only comes on during WOT racing.....doesnt our cars have a RPM limiter in them already? Thanks ---

so its a window switch,ignition box,timing retard all in one?

so its a window switch,ignition box,timing retard all in one?

Yep, not a bad deal I would say.

alwayscode ~ A window switch is a secondary switch ( Think of it as a secondary power switch, that is RPM activated, that only works when the main switch it turned on ). You set it for the RPM's you want the nitrous to come on and off at. Without a window switch, if you went WOT from idle, with N20, its WAY harder on the motor than if the RPM's were higher, say at 3,000 RPM's.

Nitrous and extra fuel are injected at the same rate, say 100HP shot, and will inject the same amount of extra fuel/n20 at 1000RPM's as it does at redline. This is what makes N20 hard at low RPMs. Typical window switches are set, on a stock LT1/PCM to come on at 3000-3500 ( In an attempt to already have good traction too ) and turn off at 5800 RPMs ( To avoid the problems with the stock rev limiter). The stock rev limitier pulls fuel, not spark, and so if your spraying, and would hit the rev limiter, it kills injector pulse. No pulse means no fuel, no fuel leans it out big time, it gets super hot, detonates, and will, it not at first, eventually blow the motor. You want to basically set your window switch at just a hair (100-200)RPM's higher than where you shift at, and/or below the stock rev limiter. This way you are still spraying up until the point where you let off ( Or dont heheh) to shift.

Also, another reason so use a window switch, well, in a M6 car: What happens if you miss a shift ? It forces the motor to spin higher then it was ever designed to. This alone is hard on it. Then the PCM (If it was never programmed ) reads its past the rev limit, and cuts fuel. So now your revving high, and leaning out. To top matters off, you would still be spraying an extra 100-150HP on it, and that really is the icing on the cake, that will blow your motor.

From the last couple years reading on here, the number of guys W/O a window switch who missed a shift, and had their engine survive it, are very far and few between. Its bad lol.

Hope that helps some.

GREAT EXPLANATION RM125....I totally understand it now, thanks for your time :) ---

I missed a shift and the motor lived..but I let go of the button heh.

When hooking up the mallory 685 box. the window switch wire needs to go where? also with the Start retard wire? Any one have an answer?
Thanks Mike

The start timing retard is a built in feature of the box and is programmable by the controls. You don't want to play with its value, leave it at the default, which is .01 I believe. Some people who have messed with it could not get their cars to start. You need to be concerned with two wires, the violet wire, which is for the window switch, and the yellow wire, which will be for the timing retard when you are spraying. The violet wires provides a ground, therefore, you will want to disconnect the main ground of the nitrous relay and connect it to the violet wire of the Mallory. If you have a fuel pressure safety switch, then the ground wire of the fuel pressure switch will be connected to the violet wire of the Mallory instead. The yellow wire is connected to the 12v on the activation side of the ntirous relay. A wire tap would be the easiest way to achieve this. When the nitrous relay sends a 12V input to the solenoids, it will then initiate the timing retard.