Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input

So I had my first night at the dragstrip.

Ran a 16.1, 15.5, and 14.9

Not too happy

First run I did a nice burnout for the first 1/4th of the track, just wouldn't grab at all.

Second run, spun them again, bad, then hit 2nd hard, and they started breaking loose in second and the rearend got a little squirly.

Third time, they broke loose AGAIN, but i let off the throttle, they grabbed, and grabbed in 2nd gear too.

My 60 foot times, were 2.5+ so I'm guessin its the tires (and driver) and not the car.

My friends 2001 altima had better 60 foot times :eek:

I raced a 2004 Mach I and was dead even with him on the 2nd run which was good (first time for him too).

Oh well

I hope the engines ok, I ragged it out tryin to make up for the lost time and brought it up to 6000+ :(

Theres barely any tread on my rear tires...but i thought, wouldn't that make them the same as slicks :bow:

Dude, you need some serious practise launching that M6!!! ;) Even with crappy street tires, you need to find the (not so:rolleyes: ) "sweet spot" that you can launch, HOOK, and THEN stand on the throttle. I know when I took my car to the track for the first time with the 6-speed, to actually hook off the line I had to "launch" around ~1200 - 1500 RPM or so (I think ... I know it was low:think: ). Once the car was off the line and rolling, then I could step into it and start to motor. My best 60' time of the night was a 2.152, and it was a 13.4 @ 107 second run.

I have a buddy with a '97 Z28 M6, completely bone stock (except for a short shifter) and he ran a 13.7 @ 100 with a ~2.1 60' time on street tires. Your LT1 has that in it, but you need to be less throttle happy!! :p If you did a "burnout" for ~1/4 or the 1/4 mile, you didn't even give your tires a chance. Basically, launch like you're in the city, being followed by a cop, and just when you get rolling and the clutch is engaged, the cop disappears! :yes:

But just so you know you're not alone, I also ran a ~14.7 or something like that with my car, because I also got too throttle-happy on one of my first runs, spun the tires like there was no tomorrow, and cut a ~2.4x 60' time! ;)

First... You did just fine as long as you obeyed rule number one...

Rule number one: Enjoy yourself.

With a stick and bald tires you have a lot going on, especially for someone starting out. You sound like me when I first went... My car was a standard and I had regular street tires and didn't know anything about tire pressure or weight transfer, and my first reaction time was over a second... I spun a whole lot but I had a great time.

I just kept going back and met up with people and I learned a whole lot by asking questions and over time and lots and lots of practice I gradually improved and my fist year at the track I came home with four runner up trophies and then for the last race of the year I went to New England Dragway which was my first time at a full 1/4 mile track.

It was Camaro/Firebird Day and they had a slicks and non-slicks class and I ended up winning the non-slicks class and beat that season's street champion in the final round.

I had a blast but learning the ropes took a lot of time and required that I put my ego in my pocket and listen to everyone around me. Most importantly I had a great time.

This weekend I am going back to New England Dragway and I am racing my brothers 2002 LS1 in the non-slicks class for Camaro Day. He has a stick as well and I have a couple of old drag radials sitting in some VHT just waiting to be burned up. :D

You're not doing a burnout, are you? That's a no-no on street tires -- it'll just make them slimy.

You're not doing a burnout, are you? That's a no-no on street tires -- it'll just make them slimy.

Nope didn't do any burnouts, just spun em a couple times to clean them out. The staging lanes had a lot of dirt and gravel that was sticking to them.

Yea I guess that was my problem then. My tires are really wide and I thought the track would be real sticky. So I figured, WOT at start wouldn't be a problem even if the tires were bald. I have some video that I'll put up eventually, and yall can critique me then. Its pretty funny.

But yea, the night was really fun. I wouldve beaten that Mach I if I had some tires :mad: . The only thing that didn't sit well with me is how hard I was on the car.

Dumpin clutches, power shiftin, and going 6000 rpms +, can't be good on a DD :rolleyes:

Make sure you stay in the groove!

What was your RPM when you released the clutch?

In my car, about 1300 rpm and a quick but smooth release of the clutch as I got WOT seems to produce the best launch.

You'll need to experiment with different RPMs, different clutch techniques, and anything else you can think of, to determine what is going to work best for you.

Ideally, find a way to get to the track when you'll be able to make more than three runs. My first time at the drag strip, I got to make 17 runs. :D

What track?

Make sure you stay in the groove!

What was your RPM when you released the clutch?

In my car, about 1300 rpm and a quick but smooth release of the clutch as I got WOT seems to produce the best launch.

You'll need to experiment with different RPMs, different clutch techniques, and anything else you can think of, to determine what is going to work best for you.

Ideally, find a way to get to the track when you'll be able to make more than three runs. My first time at the drag strip, I got to make 17 runs. :D

What track?

Well my first run I think I did a 2500 launch...which was a nice show for everyone as the mustang pulled away.

Second I had it at about 1500, but as soon as I jumped on it, started spinnin, and then when I hit second, it started gettin loose :eek:

The last time I had it at about an idle, maybe a little bit of throttle, and same thing...Green...WOT, Spin, Off throttle, then on it again.

I think the problem was that as soon as i saw the last amber, I was just going wide open, so in reality a 1000rpm was actually a 4000rpm launch.

Yea it was really crowded. It was at the Orlando Drag Way. 2 Lanes of bikes, 4 Lanes of street cars, and 2 Lanes of the crazy drag cars.

And just on a sidenote, how hard is it on the car to do all this, and what kind of engine rpm is bad for the engine...still dont know much about the 350.

Well, first of all, you don't have "a 350" in the traditional sense. You have an LT1. It is 350 cubic inches, but it's misleading to refer to it as a 350.

Your engine can handle quite a bit of abuse. Try not to bounce it off the rev limiter, and you should be okay.

If you're looking for a bit of insurance against harm when you abuse it, a set of chrome-moly pushrods (typically about $100) would be a smart move.

The thing you actually need to be worried about is the rear end. It's not very strong, and hard clutch-dump launches are very hard on it. It'll handle stock power on street tires without a problem, but if you add more power or stickier tires, you're pretty much begging for it to break. It can be strengthened, but most people here will tell you that it's not worth it. Replacing it with a stronger rear end will cost you at least $2000, but strengthening it and repairing it when it breaks will catch up to that figure and pass it eventually.

Well, first of all, you don't have "a 350" in the traditional sense. You have an LT1. It is 350 cubic inches, but it's misleading to refer to it as a 350.

Your engine can handle quite a bit of abuse. Try not to bounce it off the rev limiter, and you should be okay.



What exactly does the rev limiter do...I assume limits the revving...but what does it sound like and at what point does it do it.

I'm not sure, but I think it's at 6000 on a stock LT1. When the RPMs get to that point, the computer cuts the fuel supply so that it can't rev any higher. The revs will fall to 5700 or so, and then the computer will turn the fuel injectors back on and it will climb again (if you're still on the gas and you haven't shifted).

"Bouncing" off the limiter refers to holding the pedal down as it repeats this process several times.

It's hard to describe the sound, but you'll know it when you hear it. You can literally watch the tach needle "bounce" off of the 6000 mark as it happens.

If Orlando Dragway and Orlando Speedworld are the same place, then I have been there several times. The track is usually greasy for street tires on an average night in my experience. It is also usually quite humid which can be rough on performance numbers. Avoid any spot on the launch pad that looks shiny and try to avoid following FWD cars. They don't give you much room to get around the water box there.

:) Wait till you are spinning in 4th

Launching just takes tons of practice and will help your times greatly. What was your mph? That will give a better idea of how the car is running, even while you are learning to launch it.

315s regardless of quality should be able to get you moving since you are fairly close to stock.

Sweet spot on our cars sadly means that on street tires you have to find the point were it bogs just enough that you dont spin them. I am learning to deal with my VTEC so I end up bogging then spinning after it revs up.

Yea its the Orlando Speed World

And like you said, I keep hearing from people that the track is pretty slick.

I also was suprised at all the dirt and crap in the staging lanes...it was all over my tires.

And as far as MPH goes:

First run 16.1 at 95

Second run 15.8 I think (not 15.5 as previously posted, dont have the time slip, lost it) at 96

And third 14.9 at 24, I coulda sworn i was goin faster than that.

I'd like to get around 99-101 with traction.

My 60 times were 2.5s and above I think...maybe a 2.4 at best. Pretty horrible.

My reaction times were also .5+ at best, which is also terrible. My friend in his 2001 altima, first time at track, was getting consistant .1s...bastard

We also had a little debate on when the actual clock starts for the 1/4 mile. Is it when you pass the beam, or is it when the light is green?
Could you theoretically sit at the line for 10 seconds then go, and have it still be a 13.5 or whatever?

Thanks for your responses so far

There is a third beam, after the beams for the staging lights. The clock for your ET starts when you trip that beam. The Reaction Time clock starts on green, and stops when you trip the same beam.

You could have a 30-second reaction time and a 9-second ET.

You have a reasonably stock vehicle. Try maximum air in your front tires. Try 26 pounds in the rears. Try disconnecting the front swaybar. Try launching around 1500 ans shifting at 5600. That should be about the proper balance for a 1995 that is basically stock. A short throw shifter and drag radials will help greatly.

What will taking off the swaybar do?

I had a pretty built Jeep before I entered the muscle car world, so i'm assuming it keeps the tires firmly planted?

Disconnecting the front sway bar at the track will allow the front end to rise a bit more than if it was attached. This allows better weight transfer from the front to the rear of the car at the launch which helps the rear tires stick instead of spin.

It is usually finding the proper combination of things to make the most out of what you have that makes your runs consistent. Over the years I removed my front sway bar, installed lightweight and narrow front rims and tires, loose (90/10) front shocks and drag springs. I did so only as required. If something worked I didn't just go and upgrade it. I waited until something didn't work or until track conditions required I try something else. I couldn't see the sense in spending money and wondering if what I spent it on would lower my ET by "X" amount as racing simply doesn't work that way at an amateur level. For me to quantify in net terms the amount of gain I received from removing my front sway bar would be impossible. However I know that day in and day out the benefit from that change assists the other suspencsion components in performing as advertised.

On your car I would just unhook it on one side at the track and wire it up so it doen't swing free. If you become more serious or get into points racing or something then go ahead and remove it. I threw mine out years back as it saved a few pounds. If i remember correctly I removed it at the same time as I put the battery in the wheelwell by the passenger rear tire.

There is a third beam, after the beams for the staging lights. The clock for your ET starts when you trip that beam. The Reaction Time clock starts on green, and stops when you trip the same beam.

You could have a 30-second reaction time and a 9-second ET.

Only 2 beams Jake.
As you roll in and block the first one upper stage lights come on
As you move farther in lower stage lights come on
As you leave the clock starts when you roll out of the second beam
The amount of time that it takes from when the green comes on until you roll out of the second beam is your reaction time. That's why you leave on the 3rd yellow so that you'll roll out of the beam right when the green comes on.

Only 2 beams Jake.
As you roll in and block the first one upper stage lights come on
As you move farther in lower stage lights come on
As you leave the clock starts when you roll out of the second beam
The amount of time that it takes from when the green comes on until you roll out of the second beam is your reaction time. That's why you leave on the 3rd yellow so that you'll roll out of the beam right when the green comes on.
Milan Dragway has three beams -- you can see them. Not the beams themselves, but the senders and sensors at the sides. :shrug:

I'm pretty sure TMP (www.torontomotorsportspark.com) (Cayuga) uses 3 beams as well? :think:

I think breaking the first beam (rolling through/past it) sets "Pre-Stage", the second beam sets "Staged" and that's where you want to stage SHALLOW vs. DEEP, because in those few short inches, you've got a chance to get a "rolling start" before you break the 3rd beam which actually starts the clock :cool:.

I may be WAY wrong, but I wonder if there aren't 2 different systems which ultimately perform the EXACT same function, just using different computer logic (one requires broken beam to for staged and rolling out to activate, one requires all beams intact and breaking a 3rd beam to activate? :shrug:

I'm pretty sure TMP (www.torontomotorsportspark.com) (Cayuga) uses 3 beams as well? :think:

I think breaking the first beam (rolling through/past it) sets "Pre-Stage", the second beam sets "Staged" and that's where you want to stage SHALLOW vs. DEEP, because in those few short inches, you've got a chance to get a "rolling start" before you break the 3rd beam which actually starts the clock :cool:.

I may be WAY wrong, but I wonder if there aren't 2 different systems which ultimately perform the EXACT same function, just using different computer logic (one requires broken beam to for staged and rolling out to activate, one requires all beams intact and breaking a 3rd beam to activate? :shrug:

Don't know about that but I looked again yesterday at Stanton and there's only 2 beams.

Don't know about that but I looked again yesterday at Stanton and there's only 2 beams.
I looked too; you're right, there were only two at Stanton. I'll try to remember to look again the next time I'm at Milan. Milan gives you MPH at 1000' on your timeslip, which means that they have at least one additional beam down the track, so I wouldn't be surprised to find that they have another. :)