PCV/crankcase Evac with Drawings, need Help

Guys help me figure out my PCV/ crankcase Evac setup on my LT1 D1SC motor.

Here is 4 drawings that I came up with for the setup can I want you guys to explain to me which one would be better and why?????
I didn't draw in VC filters or inserted Check valves b/c frankly I really didn't know where They would be needed. Thanks Fellas.

BTW I have MAD Paint skills, lol.IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i77/TAKID/catchcan1.jpg[IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i77/TAKID/catchcan2.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i77/TAKID/catchcan3.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i77/TAKID/catchcan4.jpg

You really need to post this on the "Forced Induction" forum. The guys there solve this problem every day. Anyone who doesn't have a blower is not likely to know the answer, or know which setup works best.

I'll move it for you.

Thanks Fred, does anyone have advice on this??? Procharger told me not to run the PCV setup, but I have also heard otherwise. I have researched this a lot and I see a lot of controversy.

Setup #4 is the best in my opinion. If you vent to atmosphere you will get foul smells. Also the supercharger intake does not provide enough vacuum at idle to vent the crankcase.:)

Well I got some really good info from someone, and it was to run the stock PCV valve from the driverside of the intake (it already has a Check valve in there) into a Catchcan and then run a Line from the can into the suck side of the blower.
I was told not to worry about breathers or anything on the valvecovers,
and to plug the hole in the passenger side Valvecover?????
I have never seen anyone do this but I trust the guy who told me it would be ok.

Well I got some really good info from someone, and it was to run the stock PCV valve from the driverside of the intake (it already has a Check valve in there) into a Catchcan and then run a Line from the can into the suck side of the blower.
I was told not to worry about breathers or anything on the valvecovers,
and to plug the hole in the passenger side Valvecover?????
I have never seen anyone do this but I trust the guy who told me it would be ok.

You will have very little ventilation with that setup requiring frequent oil changes and contaminated oil. You will have a vacuum at WOT but no ventilation. You need a source of fresh clean air to go into the crankcase/ passenger side valvecover.

Why would you need a check valve if that line never sees boost? In other words your drawing air from the lifter valley and sending it to the suck side of the blower through a catch can.

I suggest you leave the driver side pcv valve and rubber line hooked up as though it were stock(it hooks into the front of the intake manifold for vacuum and draws harmful blowby from the lifter valley on the driver side of the engine).

Then I would run the passenger side breather hose through an air/water separater(check out projecttransam.com for details) to the suck side of the blower. There is a picture at the bottom of my cardomain site.

I've run this setup for 25,000 miles and it works great. Also you don't have to add a catch can to an already overcrowded engine bay. I get about 2 or 3 drops of oil in the separater when I wind it up to 6400 rpm. This is because the blower intake makes alot of vacuum at high rpm. No oil leaks, no pressure in the crankcase, and I'm running 6000 miles between oil changes.:eek:

If you seal up the motor properly you only need a PCV. Using a breather just opens up the motor to suck moisture in and collect on the inside of the valve covers. If this is so wrong then why would GM do this for motors going 100,000miles?

The air/water seperator is a good idea, but for any of these systems to work the motor needs to be 100% sealed and check valves installed so you prevent anything from entering the motor other than thru the induction system.

Bret

Yep Bret is the one who helped me out on this, it seems rather simple and would not be as cluttered as some of the other setups I have seen.
Since the stock PCV setup contains a check valve Bret told me to direct it to the catchcan then into the suckside of the blower, and to just use a plug to plug up the hole in the passenger side Valvecover.

I have always considered a Catchcan the same thing as a air/water seperator??

If you seal up the motor properly you only need a PCV. Using a breather just opens up the motor to suck moisture in and collect on the inside of the valve covers. If this is so wrong then why would GM do this for motors going 100,000miles?

The air/water seperator is a good idea, but for any of these systems to work the motor needs to be 100% sealed and check valves installed so you prevent anything from entering the motor other than thru the induction system.

Bret

Brett,

Every stock PCV system I've ever seen has a breather filter or some way to allow fresh clean air into the crankcase. Even back in the 70's my Ford Econoline Van (Shaggin Wagon) :D had a breather filter inside the big round air filter can.

BTW you make great cams. When I called Comp Cams two years ago they compared their cams to yours.:)

I have always considered a Catchcan the same thing as a air/water seperator??

There is nothing wrong with using a catchcan. They are just usually more expensive and bigger as far as space goes.:)

There is nothing wrong with using a catchcan. They are just usually more expensive and bigger as far as space goes
I was looking at catch cans but I seen this and I may just go with this now.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=84458&parentCategoryId=10053
I know I can get one cheaper at a local parts store but I like the design and mounting spots on this one. I plan on mounting it near Suck side of the blower so it can be a simple transition.
What do you guys think.

It seems having the system 100% sealed makes the actual "crankcase" evac more efficient. If you have an outside air source present (i.e. breather(s)) you may only be sucking air through the breather and into you're catchcan/vacuum pump/etc. minimizing or atleast reducing the actual crankcase gas/pressure removal which is what you want to be removing.

I mean...take you're home vacuum cleaner...set it to the hose extension, and cut a couple holes up on the side of the hose, it doesn't suck anything through the nozzle anymore does it? Seems to be a similar principle...Just my $.02.:think:

...I suggest you leave the driver side pcv valve and rubber line hooked up as though it were stock(it hooks into the front of the intake manifold for vacuum and draws harmful blowby from the lifter valley on the driver side of the engine).

Then I would run the passenger side breather hose through an air/water separater(check out projecttransam.com for details) to the suck side of the blower. There is a picture at the bottom of my cardomain site.

I've run this setup for 25,000 miles and it works great. Also you don't have to add a catch can to an already overcrowded engine bay. I get about 2 or 3 drops of oil in the separater when I wind it up to 6400 rpm. This is because the blower intake makes alot of vacuum at high rpm. No oil leaks, no pressure in the crankcase, and I'm running 6000 miles between oil changes.:eek:

Any reason why this setup wouldn't also work in a turbo application? Also, would it be beneficial to put an air/oil sperator on the stock side of the PCV setup?

I have my drivers side of intake looped to the connector next to it, then ive got the passenger side of the throttle body capped off. i run the hose from the passenger valve cover to the intake side of the blower. I am planning on running another passenger side VC on the drivers side and teeing them together and then to an oil catchcan, and then tying that into the suck side of the blower between it and the filter. it seems to keep the motor the most sealed while allowing it to pull the most out. while also keeping oil from making it into the the supercharger.

From what I have seen, There is quite a Few ways to get Crankcase evac out of the a Motor effeciently. I have talked to several People and shops about this and something I was told that would work well is picture number 1.
Exotic Performance plus, VRE, Shane at thunder racing, Stenod, all told me I really didn't need a PCV setup b/c it was basically for emissions and I should just use a Pipe plug to plug it up. Here is one of Stenods customer cars they just did and this guy drives this on the street often even with the Glide http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565163&highlight=PCV
Some peope say, " well you need to change your oil more frequently" and I change mine every 3000 miles regardless.
I still have some things to think about with the PCV setup but I may go with Bret's idea still since it seems like less work and just as Effecient:)

Any reason why this setup wouldn't also work in a turbo application? Also, would also be beneficial to put an air/oil sperator on the stock side of the PCV setup?

This setup would work fine on a turbo application. The reason I don't use a separater on the pcv side is for 2 reasons. The Pcv side moves alot of CFM and I don't think the separater could keep up and the Pcv side is not as prone to oil spray at high rpm.:)

From what I have seen, There is quite a Few ways to get Crankcase evac out of the a Motor effeciently. I have talked to several People and shops about this and something I was told that would work well is picture number 1.
Exotic Performance plus, VRE, Shane at thunder racing, Stenod, all told me I really didn't need a PCV setup b/c it was basically for emissions and I should just use a Pipe plug to plug it up. Here is one of Stenods customer cars they just did and this guy drives this on the street often even with the Glide http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565163&highlight=PCV
Some peope say, " well you need to change your oil more frequently" and I change mine every 3000 miles regardless.
I still have some things to think about with the PCV setup but I may go with Bret's idea still since it seems like less work and just as Effecient:)

None of the motorheads have ever liked PCV. If it doesn't give more power then you don't need it, right? I disagree that it is only for emission control purposes only. If yours is a daily driver like mine then it is a good system to have for keeping your oil and crankcase clean.:)

I wish you could see my oil after 6000 miles. Its color is still golden brown and doesn't look much different than the day I put it in. I got kind of worried that maybe it wasn't circulating.:eek:

This setup would work fine on a turbo application. The reason I don't use a separater on the pcv side is for 2 reasons. The Pcv side moves alot of CFM and I don't think the separater could keep up.and the Pcv side is not as prone to oil spray at high rpm.:)
Seems like I'll go with a setup like that then. Seems to not add too much more clutter to the engine bay, is pretty simple and doesn't seem too costly.:)

i have mine setup like your second example. at idle it has very little draw if any but i am sure as engine and blower speed increase it should have a good amount of vacum on it. if this does not seem to work well i will most likely run the lines to the collectors.

I went w/ this catch can and should be in the mail today. http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html

I like the idea of running the other line off the catch can to inlet side of the blower too. Looks like I'll be changing mine as well.


I wish you could see my oil after 6000 miles. Its color is still golden brown and doesn't look much different than the day I put it in. I got kind of worried that maybe it wasn't circulating.:eek:

Man I must have a bad system or something because of all the cars I've owned even new off the show room floor and changing the oil myself I've never seen oil go in clean and come out clean. Not trying to debunk you but I'd love to see that for myself.

I went w/ this catch can and should be in the mail today. http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html

I like the idea of running the other line off the catch can to inlet side of the blower too. Looks like I'll be changing mine as well.



Man I must have a bad system or something because of all the cars I've owned even new off the show room floor and changing the oil myself I've never seen oil go in clean and come out clean. Not trying to debunk you but I'd love to see that for myself.

Ok its not quite as golden brown as I thought it was but you can see by the picture that it still has good color to it. Consistancy is good too. This is with 6300 miles mostly city driving. Castol Syntec Blend 5W30.:cool:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2373000-2373999/2373730_28_full.jpg

You will have very little ventilation with that setup requiring frequent oil changes and contaminated oil. You will have a vacuum at WOT but no ventilation. You need a source of fresh clean air to go into the crankcase/ passenger side valve cover.

Why would you need a check valve if that line never sees boost? In other words your drawing air from the lifter valley and sending it to the suck side of the blower through a catch can.

I suggest you leave the driver side pcv valve and rubber line hooked up as though it were stock(it hooks into the front of the intake manifold for vacuum and draws harmful blowby from the lifter valley on the driver side of the engine).

Then I would run the passenger side breather hose through an air/water separator(check out projecttransam.com for details) to the suck side of the blower. There is a picture at the bottom of my cardomain site.

I've run this setup for 25,000 miles and it works great. Also you don't have to add a catch can to an already overcrowded engine bay. I get about 2 or 3 drops of oil in the separator when I wind it up to 6400 rpm. This is because the blower intake makes a lot of vacuum at high rpm. No oil leaks, no pressure in the crankcase, and I'm running 6000 miles between oil changes.:eek:

Quick question going back to this setup. I've discussed with someone involved with my build that states that the one-way check valve in the stock driver's-side PCV system would fail under boost and pressurize the crack case. Has anyone run into this problem? Could I install an upgraded one-way check valve if the stock one could fail?

Mine has not failed in 30,000 miles. If it does it only costs 3 dollars at the local parts store. It looks pretty sturdy to me. I have checked mine at full boost by having an assistant hold their finger over it. It doesn't leak. I think if you put an aftermarket check valve you would lower the cfm while in vacuum.:)

Mine has not failed in 30,000 miles. If it does it only costs 3 dollars at the local parts store. It looks pretty sturdy to me. I have checked mine at full boost by having an assistant hold their finger over it. It doesn't leak. I think if you put an aftermarket check valve you would lower the cfm while in vacuum.:)
Gees, I meant boost, not post in my last message. Fixed.:)

That's what got me. He was telling me that if I put a shop hose up to that valve, that it would easily be able to blow the wrong way through the valve if it was pressurized. This is really confusing me and is the last thing that needs to be done before we get this thing fired up.:(

[QUOTE=T/A KID;4138713]I was looking at catch cans but I seen this and I may just go with this now.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=84458&parentCategoryId=10053

For what it's worth, I just tried one of these and the little plastic bowl is already showing cracks after only driving one day. I tried to mount it over to the side of the engine compartment, but evidently it still gets too hot for this catch can.

[QUOTE=T/A KID;4138713]I was looking at catch cans but I seen this and I may just go with this now.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=84458&parentCategoryId=10053

For what it's worth, I just tried one of these and the little plastic bowl is already showing cracks after only driving one day. I tried to mount it over to the side of the engine compartment, but evidently it still gets too hot for this catch can.

Get in touch w/ this guy. It's what I'm using and well worth it. Their prices have gone up though...I got mine for under 90 bucks last yr. :D I did mine a little diffferent in terms of installation. I'm using a catch can for each VC, TB ports capped off, and being a 93 my pcv is located on the DS. I took the vac line ran it to the inlet of the CC oil/water seperator can and ran the outlet line to the pcv/line port. No oil thus far but it pics up condensation that has a fuel odor to it.
http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/new_page_1.htm

http://fbodyeurope.org/Gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=5602&g2_serialNumber=2

OK, thanks. That looks good.