Anyone use Brodix heads W/Brodix single plain

STS-T1 215cc cnc ported @.650 305intake 224exhaust #1008100 are 23 degree head
11-sp-X 225cc @.650 284intake 206exhaust #1111002 are 23 degree head
wp-10-sp-X 231cc @.600 313intake 230exhaust are 23 degree head
18-std-X 244cc @.650 321intake 209exhaust #1181002 are 18 degree head
18sp-X 244cc @.650 321intake 230exhaust #1181000 are 18 degree head

Anyone used any of these heads in combination with a Brodix single plain manifold? What has to be done to bolt these heads to a LT1 block with any single plain? 18 degree heads i think if seen a few Lt1s with them how do you convert them? I would like a pair on my 383 stroker, I take it you have to run a 18 degree type piston? I can use the rockers off my 23 degree heads on these 18 degree which is sweet, there are also 18 degree heads that flow more that aren't listed they are just cnc'd by brodix I don't think i would need that much. Any thoughts thanks if not I will try LT1-LT4 tech:D :D

Well one thing that must be done is they have to be converted to reverse cooling.

From what I understand this is rather difficult/expensive.

But that's all I know, if that:)

I narrowed it I want the KC 11 SP X 23 degree head 231 cc/2.100 intake 1.60exhaust @.650 314 intake 233 exhaust or an 18 degree head since there a little cheaper:D
Maybe its a stupid idea and I should just stick with AFR I just thought it would be sweet to have Brodix heads with there single plain to match.

I have not done this conversion so consider the source.... Yes the heads need to be converted to reverse cool, How is that done? well the coolant gets to the heads from a port in the block(its the round hole in the deck located just above the bore to the front of the block) this port is isolated from the rest of the block which means the coolant must exit this hole into the head, the coolant cools the head then exits the head into the block through the other coolant holes. Think of it as "top down" cooling, from the pump to the heads down into the block.
IMO the biggest problem is the oil drain back holes would hang open into the coolant port on both ends of the block. If you look at a standard sbc there is a provision for the drainback in the corners of the deck, that is right where the LT1 coolant holes are. Again these are my observations and have not done this so I could be wrong. I am sure the experts will chime in to correct me. Using a converted brodix intake would be trick because you could just block the thermostat port and allow that passage to be the crossover tube, you could do this 4 corner also.
After all this though you have to consider if its worth all the effort compared to GM heads ported by one of the vendors here?

Thanks, I E-mailed brodix too I'll see what they say

You wouldnt be the first person to think of this.

Ya i figured so owell

If you really want a set of double throw down LT heads talk to Dennis @ AFD. He can do a All Pro RR head for you, it's not cheap but for the bore size you're not going to beat it in a 23° head.

Bret

This is one of the brodix heads listed in the first post.

http://cz28.net/gallery/d/4187-2/DSCN1597.JPG
http://cz28.net/gallery/d/4190-2/DSCN1594.JPG

Any more info on this??



David

Too bad Brodix "Heat Treatment" on the heads isin't really good for weld, makes those castings hard to convert. That's why they didn't make the list I posted above in the thread. Of the companies i've listed there are enough guys out there who can get big power and numbers from those castings anyways to worry about this.

IF Brodix did a conversion on the heads, thats another thing but for a external shop to do it well that's a different story. It's their issue if the head gets soft and screws up on the customer not Brodix's fault.

Bret

The aluminum Brodix uses on their cylinder heads is a A-356 which is actually one of the more easily weldable aluminums.

Too bad Brodix "Heat Treatment" on the heads isin't really good for weld, makes those castings hard to convert. That's why they didn't make the list I posted above in the thread. Of the companies i've listed there are enough guys out there who can get big power and numbers from those castings anyways to worry about this.

IF Brodix did a conversion on the heads, thats another thing but for a external shop to do it well that's a different story. It's their issue if the head gets soft and screws up on the customer not Brodix's fault.

Bret

The aluminum Brodix uses on their cylinder heads is a A-356 which is actually one of the more easily weldable aluminums.

I wonder why Brodix says this on their website: "We highly recommend that no one other than BRODIX weld on your cylinder heads because this normally causes problems. For example, welding could ruin the heads by making them soft or leaving pits of contamination."

They also discuss re-heat treating heads after repairing by welding. Perhaps the castings are either solution hardened or precipitation hardened during manufacture. Have you had any problems welding Brodix heads, Rod?

Bandit

The conversion process has already been discussed so that's on you to choose.

The Heads:
1) Why are you turning away from the GM heads that come on that engine?
2) Are you building an all out race engine?
3) I have no qualms about the Brodix heads - I'm a dealer
4) Welding - The reason that Brodix cautions people not to weld on their heads is because the average shop has no clue about how to weld the 356 T6 material. It takes a 356 style rod made exclusively by Alcoa at a cost of $15.00 per LBS with a 10 lbs min buy. The same is true for Dart heads that use the 355 T6 made by Alcoa.
5) My recomendation for your application and all around best performance would be the -8X/40-60 or the -10X/40-60 mildly ported.

But - The GM heads we used on the GoldStrand Corvettes with engines by TRACO Engineering now TRA-CO Racing Engines (Jim Jones) made 410 ft/lbs of torque at 4500 rpm's. If you do the math thats a serious street engine because at 5250 rpm the torque and horsepower are equal. We always installed 2.050 by 1.600 valves and changed the seats to make them fit.

I have plenty of Camaro's and Corvettes running with the newer heads and 2.00 by 1.570 valves in um without changing the seats and they are really fast.

Hope that helps you out

Denny Schmidt

No I have not had problems welding on A356 OldSStroker and a poor welder can leave contamination and pits due to a poor weld which gives reason for their warning. The A-356 is a popular casting material for wheels and engine components so it is not a problem to find a heat treater especially in my area as I can name quite a few across the top of my head on top of my head besides the one I work for. They can be done with a few processes (F, T-51, T-6, T-7) but these heads would be done with a T6 process which means they are dipped in solution approx 1000*F for approx 5 hours I would be more than happy to a take a pic of the weld on the 18X heads OldSStroker but I am not willing to take off my valve covers. The welding to convert the heads is done in a non critical area that would not require hardening and by no means would anneal the whole head.

I wonder why Brodix says this on their website: "We highly recommend that no one other than BRODIX weld on your cylinder heads because this normally causes problems. For example, welding could ruin the heads by making them soft or leaving pits of contamination."

They also discuss re-heat treating heads after repairing by welding. Perhaps the castings are either solution hardened or precipitation hardened during manufacture. Have you had any problems welding Brodix heads, Rod?

No I have not had problems welding on A356 OldSStroker and a poor welder can leave contamination and pits due to a poor weld which gives reason for their warning. The A-356 is a popular casting material for wheels and engine components so it is not a problem to find a heat treater especially in my area as I can name quite a few across the top of my head on top of my head besides the one I work for. They can be done with a few processes (F, T-51, T-6, T-7) but these heads would be done with a T6 process which means they are dipped in solution approx 1000*F for approx 5 hours I would be more than happy to a take a pic of the weld on the 18X heads OldSStroker but I am not willing to take off my valve covers. The welding to convert the heads is done in a non critical area that would not require hardening and by no means would anneal the whole head.

Thanks for the solution HT info. FWIW, what would you charge for doing the necessary welding to convert a pair of 18X to reverse cooling? Just curious.

Thanks for the solution HT info. FWIW, what would you charge for doing the necessary welding to convert a pair of 18X to reverse cooling? Just curious.

I'm also curious, pm me a price if you don't want to post it here.:)

Thanks,
Jeremy

The price a shop would charge would be between $200 - $300 to convert the heads (IMO its simply not worth it to charge $200 or so to drill into somones $2500 heads) www.cfmmotorsports.com would be more than happy to do it for you in that price range. BTW the only real welding involved is closing the coolant passange that the new oil drain passes through.

The price a shop would charge would be between $200 - $300 to convert the heads (IMO its simply not worth it to charge $200 or so to drill into somones $2500 heads) www.cfmmotorsports.com would be more than happy to do it for you in that price range. BTW the only real welding involved is closing the coolant passange that the new oil drain passes through.

Well it's worth it if someone wants to run an optispark and keep their LT1 as stock appearing as possible I guess. I actually thought you could do the conversion for some reason, thanks anyway though.:)

Jeremy

On the 18X head it says "exhaust port standard" you can use standard 23* headers and rockers here on these heads? Seems like there is good power potential here....you can get the heads and intake as a package. Anyone got an opinion on this? On say a zero deck 383? How much power is potentially here?



David

I can only dream!

Well it's worth it if someone wants to run an optispark and keep their LT1 as stock appearing as possible I guess. I actually thought you could do the conversion for some reason, thanks anyway though.:)

Jeremy

I can only dream!

I'd say you ought to learn....based on some of the responses there is definately money to be made:)

I'm working on it! Still trying to but it's hard when I can't even find the ON button on my CNC!

I'd say you ought to learn....based on some of the responses there is definately money to be made:)

I'm working on it! Still trying to but it's hard when I can't even find the ON button on my CNC!

:lol:

I know how you feel. I'm supposed to be one of the "kids" with an infinite wealth of knowledge about technology, but I swear my 7 year old cousin can probably write program with C++ based on how quickly he learns this stuff:mad: