Broken crank whats compairable to cola

I ran a cola crank in my 1200hp LT1 for about 30,000 miles. I recently detnated and took it out. What crank would be compairable or work with my1200-1300hp motor? Do i need to fork out the cash for the callies magnum? Get lunati, crower..thoughts?

I have had good luck with Callies. The "Dragon Slayer" is the same basic crank as the others but has less machining so it's heavier, has more windage, etc. Something to consider. Did you call Callies, or the others to see what they suggest? I imagine your setup isn't a high revver, so maybe a couple of pounds of crank weight isn't an issue?

Rich

yeah the problem with calling callies is they always recommend the best. I called another company and they said get the megnum as well because the dragons come apart at 500hp. Well yeah if you detnate it. Where i dont think i need the best. My cola lasted a long time with a few detantion experiences. weight isnt much of an issue. My clutch weights in at 50lbs:D
I rev the motor to about 6800-7000rpm

I believe I spoke with you earlier, and I stand by my recommendation of the Dragonslayer.

I ran a cola crank in my 1200hp LT1 for about 30,000 miles. I recently detnated and took it out. What crank would be compairable or work with my1200-1300hp motor? Do i need to fork out the cash for the callies magnum? Get lunati, crower..thoughts?

Just discussing this in another thread:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4121317&postcount=6

It may well be the LT1 block that's failing taking the crank with it. Detonation might just have been the straw that failed the already fatigued block. You might consider a "real" block for the kind of power you are making, even if it only occasionally sees 1200.

Callies would be my choice. Try to discuss your needs with Matt Lipski there.

My $.02

You can get a "Hank the Crank" crankshaft. I hear you can't even drill those things. Hard to come by though.

You can get a "Hank the Crank" crankshaft. I hear you can't even drill those things. Hard to come by though.

I would imagine you can't drill them because of the teflon based coatings. So it's not that it's not possible, just ill advised;)

I was told it was because they were so hard that you couldn't. Something about black metal. Wasn't he the first guy to actually make a stroker crankshaft instead of just welding up and grinding it to what you wanted?

Callies would be my choice. Try to discuss your needs with Matt Lipski there.

My $.02
LOL.. why would you recommend that he talk to Matt ?

I was told it was because they were so hard that you couldn't. Something about black metal.

Well I've never heard of a metal that you "couldn't drill." Unless he makes them from Adamantium;)

LOL.. why would you recommend that he talk to Matt ?

With whom should he speak?

With whom should he speak?
I asked you first :D

I would assume that you got Matt's name from the article in Race Engine Technology magazine.

Honestly, any of the sales staff at Callies can answer most questions you might have. The bottom line is: If you can afford what is recommended, why wouldn't you take the advise of the people making the product. If you are on a budget, get the best quality for the money you have to spend. At over 1000 rwhp, will the Dragonslayer survive ? Probably.... but there are a very large amount of contributing factors in regards to the lifspan of any stressed internal engine component.

I asked you first :D

I would assume that you got Matt's name from the article in Race Engine Technology magazine.

Honestly, any of the sales staff at Callies can answer most questions you might have. The bottom line is: If you can afford what is recommended, why wouldn't you take the advise of the people making the product. If you are on a budget, get the best quality for the money you have to spend. At over 1000 rwhp, will the Dragonslayer survive ? Probably.... but there are a very large amount of contributing factors in regards to the lifspan of any stressed internal engine component.

Ya' caught me! It was a pretty good article. Was that an LSX crank pictured?

My opinion is that companies like Callies, with their heavy involvement in the highest end (most expensive) engines, give good advice and don't generally "up-sell you" beyond what you need.

I still think pushing 1200 hp @ 7000 rpm thru an LT1 block is not wise, even with the best crank you can buy. Something about "a house is only as good as it's foundation..."

Ya' caught me! It was a pretty good article. Was that an LSX crank pictured?
Yep... Magnum XL with the late 1 pc. reluctor. If you look at the Callies ad at the end of the article, you'll see one of the lightest XL cranks made to date.

My opinion is that companies like Callies, with their heavy involvement in the highest end (most expensive) engines, give good advice and don't generally "up-sell you" beyond what you need.
Contrary to what most people would believe, you are correct.

I still think pushing 1200 hp @ 7000 rpm thru an LT1 block is not wise, even with the best crank you can buy. Something about "a house is only as good as it's foundation..."
This is probably true, although I'd be curious to see the failure first hand. Most likely the crank has broken due to bending fatigue, and if there aren't signs of heat in the mains, I wouldn't necessarily point my finger at the block as the cause. Without a doubt, an aftermarket block would give the most peace of mind, but it's hard to argue with the number of miles this engine has been running.

This is probably true, although I'd be curious to see the failure first hand. Most likely the crank has broken due to bending fatigue, and if there aren't signs of heat in the mains, I wouldn't necessarily point my finger at the block as the cause. Without a doubt, an aftermarket block would give the most peace of mind, but it's hard to argue with the number of miles this engine has been running.

I think how it's been run that is more important. With that kind of power, even with twin-turbos, my guess is that boost doesn't come on in a really low rpm. And with 30,000 miles I would guess that it was street driven quite a bit. So it is entirely possible that the crank saw relatively low hp for the majority of it's life and was only damaged on the occaisional track day.

Just speculation of course, he might have made 500 1/4 mile passes with that crank, it's just not as likely.

Well I've never heard of a metal that you "couldn't drill." Unless he makes them from Adamantium;)




isnt it unobtaniam or something like that lol


-john

isnt it unobtaniam or something like that lol


-john

:lol:

All jokes aside though, anything that can be machined can be drilled, plain and simple. Unless there is some surface treatment after the machining that would make it harder than anything we have to drill with, it is just not possible. But like I said before, it is much more likely that you "can't" drill it without messing up the coatings that he applies to his cranks.

Any of you knowledgeable machinists have any input? I'd love to be wrong about this.

:lol:

All jokes aside though, anything that can be machined can be drilled, plain and simple. Unless there is some surface treatment after the machining that would make it harder than anything we have to drill with, it is just not possible. But like I said before, it is much more likely that you "can't" drill it without messing up the coatings that he applies to his cranks.

Any of you knowledgeable machinists have any input? I'd love to be wrong about this. Case hardening -Very hard to drill,easy to grind.

I agree with OldSStroker that you should be using a more ridgid aftermarket block. If you are experiancing block flex(which I don't see how you are not) then that can lead to crank failure, stronger block will extend crank life.

I agree with Eric@VRE that the Callies Dragonslayer would be fine for this application.

I have only had the pleasure of working with fewer than 10 HTC cranks, they are NICE pieces, as for drilling them, that should only be a problem in relation to the oil-shedding coating only in the area that you have heated and drlled through it.