WOW Thats power

Okay I know this should probably be in the suspension section but everyone here should have the same problem... How the HECK do you keep your tires on the GROUND!!! I just finished installing a 4.5# Powerdyne.. The rear end will break loose at 40 - 50 mph... Are there some suspension tricks or things I can do to help keep the tires planted.. I know the obvious answer is to change to drag radials.. Let me know your thoughts..

I didn't notice LCA reloc brkts in your list, could try that, 315s 17in wheels and DR could help............... I've found the most useful technique is learning how to use the gas pedal properly.

What kind of tires are you using? What rear gear are you using? I assume you are in second. With mine, without the nitrous on, if the surface is decent I can go WOT in second with just a trace of wheelspin. If the surface is at all slick though, forget it in second. I am using Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 285/40/17 on the rear with 3.42's.

I am also using the 1LE suspension parts, tubular LCA's with relo brackets and a Spohn TA. But the relevant variables seem to be the surface and the tires, more than anything else.

Rich

I have 3.73 Gears, and Tubular LCA's also, I have thought of the Relocation brackets but talking with several Suspension builders they feel the relocation brackets are a waste of money.. I havent tried them and couldnt tell you if they actually have, Im just going off of what i was told. The rear tires are Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 285/40/17 they have less than 2,000 daily driving miles on them.

the relo brackets are a HUGE help... If someone with suspension knowledge tells you that changing the angle of bars on a 3-link or 4-link setup won't change traction/forward bite, he is on crack.

a steeper angle of the rear bars means that when you accellerate, the forward movement of the rear end combined with the resistance of the car to move forward (gravity, etc) causes the rear tires to be planted harder into the ground.

Yeah, I thought if trying to find some on Ebay and seeing what type of difference they make.. I just didnt want to pay full price and not be happy with them.

the relo brackets are a HUGE help... If someone with suspension knowledge tells you that changing the angle of bars on a 3-link or 4-link setup won't change traction/forward bite, he is on crack.


I wouldnt need reloc. brackets if my LCA's are adjustable right?

Thats a good question, mine are adjustable as well, both ends are adjustable..

the adjustable LCAs just let you adjust length. That's used mainly for centering the wheel within the wheel well (needed when you run a 28" tire since our rear ends sit slightly forward of center at stock).

What you are doing with the relocation brackets is dropping the back of the LCA down. That's what gives you the extra bite.

I'm pretty sure Joe Overton pulls 1.25 60' times without LCA relocation brackets.

I don't doubt that... But that has more to do with spring selection, tire selection, air pressure, weight reduction, weight transfer, etc. In Joe O's case, traction isn't a problem and LCA relocation brackets would only help to give him bigger wheelies. :D

If he wants to stick with street tires and get more traction, relocation brackets is the way to go.

you need Adj LCA's , ADJ TQ arm and ADJ PHB then you dont need LCA reloc brackets.... you could just get away with an ADJ TQ arm

Okay i have adj. LCA, adj. PHB but not the Torque Arm. My brother in law is David Wolfe of Wolfe Racecraft, so Im sure i could get one pretty cheap.. Is that really all that i Need to get it to stick?

yep, and good tires