Wolfe...Roll Bar on my 94 Vert... 4 point?

Im not too familiar with the whole point deal, what is the diff between say a 4 and 6 point roll bar (I think I know, but I want to be sure).

Also, Im not a big track guy, but I like to have my speedy daily driver, so weld-ins would be the best and OPTIMUM for safety right? How do the swing outs work? Do you compromise side impact protection with swing-outs? Also, the removable cross brace, how does that work?

The Wolfe website is really confusing, since the use the same photos for the 4-point, 5-point and 6-point bars. I'll take a guess that they are:

4-point (not NHRA legal):
-Main hoop = 2 points
-two rear braces = 2 points

5-point (NHRA legal):
-Main hoop = 2 points
-two rear braces = 2 points
-front brace on drivers side only = 1 point

6-point (exceeds NHRA requirements):
-Main hoop = 2 points
-two rear braces = 2 points
-front brace both sides = 2 points

Both bolt-in and welded are acceptable to NHRA in a unit body chassis. If done correctly both should be similar in strength. The bolt-in requires that the 6"x6"x1/8" plate sitting on the floor at each point have at least four 3/8" bolts, and a matching plate under the floor to sandwich the mount to the floor.

A swingout bar is NHRA legal. Generally it uses a push-pin in the connection of the bar to the hoop, and the lower end of the swingout has a single bolt to pivot on. Pull the pin out and the bar swings out. The pinned connection has to be the correct design, and if it is, side impact protection will not be compromised.

A removable cross-brace is not NHRA legal. The bar is either bolted in, or has push-pins on both ends, connecting it to the hoop.

You need to understand the risks of installing a roll bar in a street car. Now you have a very hard head knocker for both front and rear seat occupants. The required padding is intended to protect helmeted heads, not bare heads. And, if you opt for a 5-point harness, they are not DOT certified and not legal for street use.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Rollbar/DCP02908a.jpg

Thanks for the detailed response. I think the trade-off of hitting my head against padding is worth the security of knowing that I'm protected in the event of a rollover (I've got a convertible). However, would you not reccomend factory seatbelts when it comes having a roll bar installed?

FYI: Be aware that your vert rear seats will not fold down with the cross bar. They will hit the bar at about 45 degrees.

I've seen cars with removable rear bars pass "tech" at our local track (Englishtown). They don't seem to get too picky on that until you get to the point where you need an NHRA certified cage (<10.00).

I personally like the 5-point with the roll bar on the street. The back of the Corbeau driver's seat is tall enough to prevent your head from hitting the bar. And the passenger side stock seat in the Firebirds has the adjustable height headrest. I also had the hoop set back as far as legally possible (no more than 6" behind the driver's helmet) to minimize contact and keep the bar under the solid part of the T-top roof.

For a while when the car was mostly street driven, I had both the stock harness and the 5-point, but eventually I took out the one on the driver's side, and eventually the one on the passenger side. I was just pointing out the technicality that although the SFI-certifed 5-point harness is vastly superior to the stock harness, it is technically not DOT certified (Simpson points this out in their FAQ) and some hard-a$$ed officer could give you a ticket.