Can rotors warp this quickly?

My stock rotors were in bad shape; everytime I hit the brakes from a 55 MPH + roll, I get this huge vibration all through the car. I decided to replace my front rotors with some $35 Autozone Duralast Rotors and left the rear ones alone because I didn't think they would make much a difference. I left the stock brake pads because they are still in excellent condition. The vibrations disapeared for about a week, you could still seldom feel it from a 70 MPH + brake but it wasn't much to fret over. Well it's Monday and the vibrations are back to full force. I havn't driven my car hard at all. I never exceed 75 MPH and even when I do I NEVER brake hard from those speeds. I let off the gas when coming to a stop WAY before I tap the brakes. I do have to stop from 55 - 60 MPH quite a bit but the area I live in is a 55 MPH zone so I really don't have a choice. Even when I do stop from these speeds I give myself plenty of room so I don't jam on the brakes...

Could those Autozone rotors have warped that quickly and easily?

havr u braked and then ran over a puddle?

Yes they could have, i have gone through 4 sets in about 2 years, thanks to the great autozone 2 year warrenty that seems to be redone everytime i get a new set.

You CANNOT drive hard on these brakes. for about 2 months i've managed not to warp these last ones, but I drive real easy on the brakes.

all it takes is enough braking to heat them up and then hit some water and there ya hae it waroed rotors. Not scuffing the brake pads when installing new rotors (if reusing the pads) can cause this to as it doesnt allow the rotor to break in properly.

uneven torque on the wheels and heat will warp the rotors the first hard stop

When I did my LS-1 brake conversion I used the cheapest Auto-zone rotors and pads I could get($25 apiece). I have since changed to Hawk pads, and have many thousands of miles on the rotors, including tons of hard stops from various speeds. No problems yet.

uneven torque on the wheels and heat will warp the rotors the first hard stop

I tourqued them all to 100FTLBs even on every wheel so I don't think thats the problem.

Also I have heard when a store leaves a rotor standing up, instead of setting it flat on the ground, it is likely to warp before you even put it on your car... Is this true? If so, I do know that all of Autozones rotors were in this position before I purchased... Perhaps I should make efficient use of my warranty?

all it takes is enough braking to heat them up and then hit some water and there ya hae it waroed rotors. Not scuffing the brake pads when installing new rotors (if reusing the pads) can cause this to as it doesnt allow the rotor to break in properly.

I didn't scuff the pads... How do you scuff pads?

When I did my LS-1 brake conversion I used the cheapest Auto-zone rotors and pads I could get($25 apiece). I have since changed to Hawk pads, and have many thousands of miles on the rotors, including tons of hard stops from various speeds. No problems yet.

You were able to get away with Valuecraft Rotors while my Duralasts are already on the nimitz? :(

My autozone rotors have not warped at all.. not even a little bit.. My stockers are were poo and warped after someone stopped short on me and I had to go hard on the brakes.

If they have the lifetime warranty, by all means, swap them out!

Autozone has always honored the warrenty for me no questions asked.

I just call before i go and make sure they have em, go pick em up and bring the old ones back in the same boxes, they refund my money and im good to go

it's a good idea to do new pads when you do rotors.

this reminds me that i need to do the rotors on my truck, they're almost done. now i get to go blow another $300 on the damn thing.

Argh... I replaced the Duralasts with my warranty and they were warped all to hell in just ONE WEEK. I put the new ones one and test drove it to find out it didn't help at all. Very shaky stop from 55+ MPH. I immediately took them off just to find that the BRAND NEW ROTORS came WARPED FROM THE BOX!! I didn't even bother turning them. I'm just going to go with a different brand... Are there ANY stronger rotors out there for our cars that can withstand the heavy heat? (and heavy braking?)

Dude, I AUTO X with my Duralast rotors. I think you need to try a different AutoZone in your area.

Make sure you are doing the job right too.. If you got the pads from Autozone, you can take those back and get new ones for free too..

I have had 0 issues with my rotors.. Me thinks something is not right there.

Dude, I AUTO X with my Duralast rotors. I think you need to try a different AutoZone in your area.

Make sure you are doing the job right too.. If you got the pads from Autozone, you can take those back and get new ones for free too..

I have had 0 issues with my rotors.. Me thinks something is not right there.

Will my waranty be accepted by any other Autozones?

Make sure the rotor is firmly pressed against the hub when you install the wheel. Its easy for the rotors to slightly bind on the stud instead of going flush on the flat surface of the hub when putting your wheel on. I had this happened once. The lugs tightened like normal, and everything. Just one rotor was slightly in a bind and it warped quick. Got it turned and now I make sure they're mated properly. Have never had the problem again.
This is why the factory installs those retainers on the studs that holds the rotor on.

I found the problem, to bad I didn't sooner though...

I have absolutely no rear brake pads and 100% of my braking for the longest time has been going on in the front. The rear rotors are all warped to hell. The front rotors are completely destroyed. They look as if I just took them and tossed them into Magma.

When I've been checking my brakes I was only looking at the front pads because I figured that front pads wear quicker than the back and if the fronts are still good then the back pads must still be fine. I never considered that whoever did the last brake job probably only changed the front pads and didn't do the rear pads. Meaning the front pads looked okay because they were NEW...

Long story short, I'm going to have to replace EVERYTHING...

Front Pads and Rotors. (I was told the pads have warped and are no good.)
Rear Pads and Rotors.

I might get them from Autozone but I'm still a bit skeptical (and I'm seriously tired of working on these brakes.)... Anyone know of some relatively inexpensive but quality Front / Rear Pads and Rotors I can buy?

The BEST bang for the buck in rotors is the Autozone stuff. Pads, well, if bucks are a problem, put on the cheapest pads they have... but save for good pads. And don't expect the cheapest pads to save your a$$ when you go into a corner way too fast. In normal street driving, the cheapo pads are actually fairly good, but they do dust a lot.

Best all around bang for the buck: Autozone Duralast rotors, Hawk HP+ pads for all around.

And since you seem to be having a LOT of trouble with warping, make sure the calipers are sliding well on the pins.

Oh... and quit trying to save money on the only thing that keeps you from running into the back of stuff.

Yeah, no doubt...stop buying cheap brakes. I know that being able to stop 5-10 feet shorter might not justify spending an extra $100. But if you don't you might find the wheelbase of your car shortened 5-10 feet after you smash into the back end of Grandma Tuffet's Buick.

I'm glad you figured out what the problem was. Rotors don't warp in a week from the driving you describe unless they are totally defective and I've never heard of giving them break in time. I put new rotors on my Grand Cherokee and Chevy Astro Van. I drive both 4000 pound cars as if they are Ferrari's. I've even spayed the rotors with cold water after miles of hard braking just to watch plumes of steam bellow out. They don't warp if they are good brakes. If they do, get a refund.

Will my waranty be accepted by any other Autozones?
yes, that is why they ask for your name/phone number, warranty info in the NATIONWIDE computer system

Oh... and quit trying to save money on the only thing that keeps you from running into the back of stuff.

Tires should be figured into this just as much as pads.

Tires should be figured into this just as much as pads.

Eh, Well she's wearing some 245/50/16 Falken's All Season Tires, they're directionals and according to Discount Tire Direct, they're Z rated tires...

Z rated doesn't mean anything for braking. Its the tread compound.

uneven torque on the wheels and heat will warp the rotors the first hard stop

sticky calipers too. After you drive a little bit, feel if your wheels are hot, it one side is hotter than the other it is undoubtedly a sticky caliper which will eventually warp the rotor(s)

Autozone sells junk parts.... Ive hears SEVERAL cases installing brand new rotors from auto zone that were warped from the start. With the junk they sell they need the warrenty... Being a big corperation they can afford it. If you want it done RIGHT the FIRST time and the ONLY time, I would go to a dealer, or your best bet is NAPA.

If you want it done RIGHT the FIRST time and the ONLY time, I would go to a dealer, or your best bet is NAPA.


Dealership rotors will be stock which will be the same light crappy casting that easily warps. If you want it to NOT warp, don't go to a dealer.

Autozone sells junk parts.... Ive hears SEVERAL cases installing brand new rotors from auto zone that were warped from the start. With the junk they sell they need the warrenty... Being a big corperation they can afford it. If you want it done RIGHT the FIRST time and the ONLY time, I would go to a dealer, or your best bet is NAPA.

somebody's retarded...the only time you'll warp a rotor right off is if you've forgotten to spray the rotor clean before you brake. every rotor made in the us comes from one of 2 factories. you can't tell me that one company sells crap rotors while another sells good ones...the same company made them both.

be sure your caliper pins are good and lubed properly, dust boots are clear of rips and dust. make sure your calipers arent warped or bent. use new pads when installing the new rotors, AND SPRAY THE ROTORS AND PADS WITH BRAKE CLEANER BEFORE FIRST USE....that's the important step. the rotors have anti rust stuff on them.

btw, i can't stand napa. every napa i've been to had crappy customer service and the only thing good from them is royal purple dealers and wix oil filters. i shop autozone for almost every part i use and i havent had any problems yet. i have a honda, jeep and the camaro. all use autozone parts where i dont use extreme duty aftermarket parts.