diy head porting question

ok, do i did my own head porting. so i got them done, but then i started looking at other porting jobs on the net.

now i have a question. in the following pic, there are red boxes around part of the intake runner throat. the question is: can i safely remove that material without getting into water jacket. how much of it can i remove before i start to weaken the runner wall? can i get the runner to the intake gasket size (which the openings are already) all the way down to the valve? how much meat do i have there?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid38/p852173837bbf3eaebb4a8779d46076cf/fd0f8bb3.jpg.orig.jpg


i'm looking to get the runner as big as possible without affecting the long term reliability of the motor. i'va already got a cc306 cam dropped in, i just want to make sure the head flow is up to the task of the cam.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid38/p852173837bbf3eaebb4a8779d46076cf/fd0f8bb3.jpg.orig.jpg



cut and paste the stupid pic. i can't get images to work right.

imagestation sucks. maybe it's just me that sucks at the internet.

You can open these up some but ya need to try and open each opening the same at the pushrod wall. Make sure you do not break through and due to core shift 1 is usually thicker than the other. Until there is more done in the bowl are and guide boss this point is not much of a restriction.

I will send ya some pics of what my bowls look like. Not that I am the greatest porter ever but maybe ya could learn something from them.

Just go SLOW and take your time b/c it is better to take a little off and not have to have it welded in this pushrod area. I could not get the other pic to work.

NightTrain66

Um, please tell me you're not trying to port the heads while there still on the motor right?

Anyways like NightTrain66 said working that area isnt going to get you much. Your time would be much better spent on the bowls.

NightTrain66,
Could you send me some pics too, if you don't mind, I'd appreciate any and all pics you've got on porting.

Thanks,
Dave
prince351@aol.com

Yeah.. what they said.. the pushrod area is a restriction, but you'll get more of a gain in the bowl/shortsides... its also much easier to eff up that though. There's a few pictures on my site on the individual pages of stuff.. dunno if itll help or not.

ok.

i am not tryong to port on the motor!! just taking pics, cause i already assembled it. no pics of the rest of it tho. sigh. b4 i got a camera.

i did do a lot of work on the bowls. getting them smooth, no sharp edges. and also on removing some material from the part runner rigth above the valveseat at the tight turn. is that the short side? i did a lot of work there opening the throat up so the seat is the smallest thing, and working the tight turn to be smoother, and a less sharp turn. is this what they mean by unsrouding the valve? or is that on the bowl side. i also spent time opening the spark plug pocket. and removing the sharp edges from around the bowl.

now i wish i had pics of the bowl itself.

The shortside is the turn from the floor to the seat.

I notice you are in P-ville. I am in RedOak if ya wanna bring the heads by I can try to give ya some help or advice. Not that I am the Greatest but most DIY people can learn a few thing from my help. I would not charge anything. If interested let me know. It is hard to describe in words and (some times with pics) how to shape the shortside. There is some cfm to gain here if done correct. There is ALOT to lose if done wrong.

NightTrain66@msn.com

i really appresciate the offer. and might take you up on it in the future. but i just ordered a torque converter yesterday, so it looks like i'm about a week away from actually having the motor installed.

this:
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=990782

os going in here:
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=990784

with this:
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=990785