12 bolt rear using stock sway bar!?

I am using the stock rear sway bar on my 1994 z28, and the 12bolt i have is alittle too big for it. What kit did you guys use to fit teh stock sway bar better. I need more clearance, the sway bar is resting on the rear dif cover and putting my endlinks in a bind...

thanks Mark

What 12-Bolt? Moser or Strange?

With the Strange, all you need to do is notch the u-bolt clamps so they can be rotated slightly on the axle. Rotate the bottom of the clamp to the rear, and it moves the sway bar back, away from the differential cover. I did this with my Strange, with the thick LPW rear cover and it solved the problem.

With the Moser, the axle tubes are larger than stock, so you need to get a kit with larger clamps.

Spohn Performance sells clamps for various size axle tubes, that also move the sway bar a bit lower, away from the rear cover.

I used the stock swaybar when i put the strange 12 bolt in. Just get the spohn sway bar setup. Or you can try to make your own.

With the Strange, all you need to do is notch the u-bolt clamps so they can be rotated slightly on the axle. Rotate the bottom of the clamp to the rear, and it moves the sway bar back, away from the differential cover. I did this with my Strange, with the thick LPW rear cover and it solved the problem.



Could you explain precisly what you mean by "notch the u-bolt"??Do you have any pics or drawing that can show this?Because im not sure to understand(maybe im a little stupid :p )

Im about to install my strange 12 bolts and i dont want my rear sway bar to hit the lpw cover ;)

Thank you

There is a metal "tab" welded on the very bottom of the stock axle tubes, and on the Strange axle tubes. The lower part of the u-bolt clamp that holds the sway bar bushings to the axle tube has a matching "notch" in it, that fits over the "tab" on the axle tube. This keeps the clamp from rotating on the axle tubes.

Grind out the "notch" in the u-bolt clamp, so that the clamp can be rotated on the axle tube. Now, instead of the clamp/sway bar bushing mount being perfectly horizontal and parallel to the ground, it is at a slight angle to the ground. Looking at the drivers side axle tube from the drivers side tire, you have rotated the u-bolt clamp counter-clockwise. Looking at the passenger side axle tube from the passenger side tire, you have rotated the clamp clockwise.

In effect, you have moved the sway bar bushings toward the rear of the car, meaning the sway bar has been moved backwards relative to the rear axle and the diff cover.

I'll see if I can find my picture and post a link.

There is a metal "tab" welded on the very bottom of the stock axle tubes, and on the Strange axle tubes. The lower part of the u-bolt clamp that holds the sway bar bushings to the axle tube has a matching "notch" in it, that fits over the "tab" on the axle tube. This keeps the clamp from rotating on the axle tubes.

Grind out the "notch" in the u-bolt clamp, so that the clamp can be rotated on the axle tube. Now, instead of the clamp/sway bar bushing mount being perfectly horizontal and parallel to the ground, it is at a slight angle to the ground. Looking at the drivers side axle tube from the drivers side tire, you have rotated the u-bolt clamp counter-clockwise. Looking at the passenger side axle tube from the passenger side tire, you have rotated the clamp clockwise.

In effect, you have moved the sway bar bushings toward the rear of the car, meaning the sway bar has been moved backwards relative to the rear axle and the diff cover.

I'll see if I can find my picture and post a link.

I haven't yet installed my new Strange 12 bolt. I did not realize that I would have sway bar issues with the LPW cover. A picture would be great help.

Thanks

There is a metal "tab" welded on the very bottom of the stock axle tubes, and on the Strange axle tubes. The lower part of the u-bolt clamp that holds the sway bar bushings to the axle tube has a matching "notch" in it, that fits over the "tab" on the axle tube. This keeps the clamp from rotating on the axle tubes.

Grind out the "notch" in the u-bolt clamp, so that the clamp can be rotated on the axle tube. Now, instead of the clamp/sway bar bushing mount being perfectly horizontal and parallel to the ground, it is at a slight angle to the ground. Looking at the drivers side axle tube from the drivers side tire, you have rotated the u-bolt clamp counter-clockwise. Looking at the passenger side axle tube from the passenger side tire, you have rotated the clamp clockwise.

In effect, you have moved the sway bar bushings toward the rear of the car, meaning the sway bar has been moved backwards relative to the rear axle and the diff cover.

I'll see if I can find my picture and post a link.

Hmm correct me if im wrong.The way you re explain it is that the sway bar is hold in place by the u-bolts but cannot move because of the small tabs right?

So if i follow you ,the upper parts of the u-bolts(the U) can be taking of the axle,kind of normal.

But the lower parts of the u-bolts(the one with one side flat and the other side is matching the axle tube) can also be taking off?

If i look at my 12 bolts the lower parts of the u-bolts is already weld to the axle tube and cannot be taking off :confused:

Maybe i just dont understand at all :cry:

Well im trully hopping for help here, i will wait for more info injuneer.

Thank you ;)

The only pics i ve found is this one :

http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staff/wunz/rearsuspension/swaybarwarrow.jpg

And this is what it was written under the pics:

When reinstalling the Sway Bar, I used Fred's trick (Arrow A) plus I included ¼" spacers (Arrow B) made from ¼ x 1 ¼" flat bar between the sway bar clamps per an excellent suggestion by Lonnie Pavtis. I also made sure that the Energy Suspension bushing brackets were mounted as far back as possible. This gave plenty of clearance and works well.

If you had gone through my Strange install proedure, you would have seen it mentioned :) :

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/Strange12.htm

This is not a BIG problem. When the body drops, the sway bar rotates upward, putting it close to the "LPW" logo on the cover. It can hit the logo, which will start to round it off. You move the bar slightly, and the problem is gone.

Install the sway bar. At this point, there is a potential problem. The sway bar is too close to the aluminum rear diff cover. The fix here is to rotate the u-bolts/brackets that hold the sway bar bushings so the bushings move back and slightly upwards around the tubes. This will give you a little extra clearance here. The sway bar end links will accommodate this movement. The u-bolt brackets have a small notch cut in the center, and this notch matches a metal tab welded to the axle tube. Hence, unless you open up the notch, there is only one way the u-bolt/bracket can go on the axle, and that is with the brackets at the bottom of the axle tube, in the 6-o’clock position. I wanted to rotate the bracket toward the rear, so I enlarged the notch to twice it’s original size, cutting the added width all on one side of the notch. This only gives you about 20o rotation, but I believe this will be enough. Comments to follow on this experience. Tighten the U-bolt nuts to 20 ft-lb, and the end link bolts to 18 ft-lb.

These will give you some idea, but don't actually show the notch or the rotation clearly. Just remember, you want to rotate the u-clamp so the bushing rotates toward the back of the car.

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Suspension/DCP03024a.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Suspension/FuelPum1.jpg

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Suspension/FuelPum2.jpg

Then there's the Spohn mounts:

http://www.injuneer.com/images/photos/Suspension/DCP03552a.jpg

Let me give another heads up......

If you launch REALLY HARD, and the back end squats, the upper panhard rod brace drops very close to the top of the differential cover and can hit the cover. I have launched hard, and never had a problem, but my car doesn't squat at all on launch. A buddy of mine did have contact, and had to grind the lip that would hid the diff cover off the upper panhard rod brace.

If you had gone through my Strange install proedure, you would have seen it mentioned :) :

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/Strange12.htm

This is not a BIG problem. When the body drops, the sway bar rotates upward, putting it close to the "LPW" logo on the cover. It can hit the logo, which will start to round it off. You move the bar slightly, and the problem is gone.


These will give you some idea, but don't actually show the notch or the rotation clearly. Just remember, you want to rotate the u-clamp so the bushing rotates toward the back of the car.


Dont worry i got your entire install post in my internet favorite and i ve read it more then you can ever think ;)

Does the lower parts of the u-bolts was welded on your axle tube from the strane factory or its a normal 2 pieces u bolts that you can actually take off...

Because like i ve wrote mine is already welded(the lower part)and cannot be moved...

always faster:

My comment about the Strange install procedure was not directed to you.... you snuck that post in while I was typing and adding the links.

On my Formula, no part of the U-bolt bracket was welded to the axle tube. I bought the car new, so I know that's the way it left the factory. If you have a lot of rust, it may appear to be welded, bit it isn't. Possibly someone tack welded it to keep it from rotating????

There were no brackets included with or welded to my Strange 12-bolt, and that was shipped new directly from Strange.

On my Spohn brackets, when Steve Spohn installed the sway bar, be tacked the very top of the U-bolt to the top of the axle tube, but the "race style" sway bar has a lot more issues with rotation, since it is preloaded to actually lower the rocker panel on one side.

always faster:

On my Formula, no part of the U-bolt bracket was welded to the axle tube. I bought the car new, so I know that's the way it left the factory. If you have a lot of rust, it may appear to be welded, bit it isn't. Possibly someone tack welded it to keep it from rotating????



Snuck???Im a french guy and i ve learn a new word today(thanks to the dictionnary) LOL!

I totally agree with you my stocker(10 bolts) as normal u-bolts that are not welded.

But on my brand new Strange(12bolts,33spline,hd posi) the lower parts is welded from the strange factory and it was deliver directly from strange?

I will try to get some pics from my friends camera(i dont have a digital one).

Im a little lost right now :confused:

One more item..... moderator issue.

Please do not include photos when you do a "quote". Delete the photo links from the "quote" before you post it. It adds uneccesary band width to the board, and from a personal point of view, adds to my personal website bandwidth, adding to the cost of my site.

One more item..... moderator issue.

Please do not include photos when you do a "quote". Delete the photo links from the "quote" before you post it. It adds uneccesary band width to the board, and from a personal point of view, adds to my personal website bandwidth, adding to the cost of my site.

Sorry :eek:

Does the 1/4 flat spacer could really help?

I will really try to get some pics of the welded u-bolts lower part that no one as ever seen :cool:

This is my Strange, as received in 1999.... so they may have made a change (obviously, it didn't arrive painted like that :) ).

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/images/Photos/axl09.jpg

Found another very old photo showing the u-bolt clamps rotated:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/images/Photos/axl03.jpg

Yeah Fred, I have heard from a few people that Strange has started welding on their own brackets on the housing to space the sway bar down without having to use the Spohn brackets, but I've yet to actually see one in person, or photo...Would be a good idea, though, if they are doing this...

--Alan

Yeah Fred, I have heard from a few people that Strange has started welding on their own brackets on the housing to space the sway bar down without having to use the Spohn brackets, but I've yet to actually see one in person, or photo...Would be a good idea, though, if they are doing this...

--Alan

Yep the brackets seems to my eye way lower then my stock u-bolts on my 10 bolts,this will maybe solve the problem.

I will measure it and post some pics as soon as i can ;)

That would mean yet another reason to get a Strange 12 bolt..very good...

--Alan

I just checked my new Strange 12 bolt that I received last week. (it is still in the crate) The sway bar brackets are welded on the axle tubes.

I can also confirm of Strange welding the anti-roll bar bracket mount to the housing. I just installed a Strange in my buddies 94 Formula. While the stock bushings will bolt right in, he bought some ENRG Suspension poly bushings and endlinks for his stock 19mm bar, and the bar bolted in, no problems. :cool: :cool: Strange Engineering 12 Bolt rears rock. The quality is fantastic. To me, a choice between 12 bolts is a no-brainer..... GET the Strange!:bow:

I can also confirm of Strange welding the anti-roll bar bracket mount to the housing. I just installed a Strange in my buddies 94 Formula. While the stock bushings will bolt right in, he bought some ENRG Suspension poly bushings and endlinks for his stock 19mm bar, and the bar bolted in, no problems. :cool: :cool: Strange Engineering 12 Bolt rears rock. The quality is fantastic. To me, a choice between 12 bolts is a no-brainer..... GET the Strange!:bow:

So what you are saying is that with no modification for the sway bar install ,they do not interfer,knock or grind the cover?

If yes wich cover, standard or lpw?

That would be a awesome news :D

Sorry so long to reply........ YES, he has the LPW cover....... no issues, no grinding!

Hey Chad!! Hows it going up there?!

--Alan

Hello Alan!
You got a PM!

I'll try and get pictures of my Strange 12 bolt soon. It has the brackets welded on, and no inteference with the LPW cover.