Couple quick questions:

I'm currently in the middle of a decent size install. I'm in the process of: ARP head studs, 1074 head gaskets, LT Headers, Vortech A-trim kit full kit, and all supporting mods, ignition etc. I'm doing this all at once.

I'm in the tear down process right now, 'bout to pull the heads. Question is the stock oil cooler, can i just remove it and toss it? Looks like coolant just does a quick U-turn. If so, should I block both the radiator and wp outlets/inlets, or just run the wp straight to the radiator, btw I'm swapping in an Electric pump as we speak. I'm not positive on the effectiveness of this cooling setup/if its necessary. Also, If i can leave it unbolted do I need to cap off the old oil cooler holes that are in the filter housing? or can I just leave 'em be for now?

Next, general question...I will be boosting with open Hooker LongTube Super Comp headers for a short while after I complete this install. Are there any problems associated with this that I need to be aware of? Not sure how the lack of back-pressure will effect my setup. I havn't decided what I'm doing with the rest of the exhaust yet, so meanwhile I was going to complete this install, then have it dyno tuned with open headers, and drive it as is until I decide on a setup. If there' are any major red flags, I can have a local shop bolt up something temporary.

Thanks,

 

The 94 oil cooler isn't a bad design, the 95 aluminum design is prone to clogging. I'd leave the oil cooler in place. If you really want to delete it, you can just install rubber caps over the radiator and waterpump ports and hold them in place with hose clamps. The oil cooler unthreads from the block via a center bolt. You can then mount your oil filter directly to the block.

 

You can't run open Hooker LT's and expect the O2 sensors to work right. The sensors are too close to the flange and reversion will give them a false lean signal. After a few miles, the BLM's will peg and computer will be throwing as much fuel at it as it can. You'll have to hold the throttle to the floor just to get down your road and into your garage.

 

Are you swapping the heads in-car? Pretty sure you wont get the heads back on with studs.

If you are going to have your O2 sensors in your header collectors you'll be fine. I have my O2's in the Y-pipe....

Just let off the gas when you pass cops.

-Scott.

 

No. Read my earlier post. Been there, done that.

 

Mike,
We must have been posting at the same time. I have my O2's in the Y-pipe up close to the collectors and have ran it with the Y open. Sorry, I don't want to mis-inform anyone.

-Scott.

 

All right...well I'll throw something on for now. You think if I just run straight 3 inch and dump behind the front tires that'll be long enough to avoid this problem?