How much of a difference would an aluminum driveshaft make?

I have a 97 TA and am wondering if an aluminum driveshaft for $125 is worth doing.

not much some say 1-2 hp

im no tpartial to them since ive had a buddy twist one in half

if your stock steel one vibrates like a typical one off the LT1s...they are very worth it

but some don't vibrate.

ws6.com 1LE driveshaft dyno:

http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm

I got my aluminum driveshaft for $80.

Felt a little quicker, but that could just be in my head or due to wallet weigh reduction.

:p

Unless your steel one is vibrating, I wouldnt worry about it.

On that dyno it made 1hp but it made 5ftlbs of tq. Thats pretty good!

How much difference is there between the LS1 driveshafts and the 1LE?

I am going out on a limb and saying no difference. Aluminum is aluminum. If Im wrong smack me and call me Shirley.

I think having a balanced drive shaft is more important than the material it's made of.

the difference between the 1le and ls1 is the diameter of the shaft itself. i think the LS1 is 3" and the 1le is 3.5"

or something along those lines.

both are basically the same, i don't think one is stronger by any measurable (or advertised) amount. but they are btter balanced than the steel ones

the difference between the 1le and ls1 is the diameter of the shaft itself. i think the LS1 is 3" and the 1le is 3.5"

or something along those lines.

both are basically the same, i don't think one is stronger by any measurable (or advertised) amount. but they are btter balanced than the steel ones

I thought the 1LE would be smaller in diamter size. Is anyone running or know anyone running the carbon-fibre DS's? I'm sure you'd say more gains there.

If you switch to aluminum, keep the steel one in the trunk for when it breaks and leaves you stranded :)

If you switch to aluminum, keep the steel one in the trunk for when it breaks and leaves you stranded :)

What do you think he drives?
A Ford Mustang.:D

I broke an ACPT carbon fiber DS (3.8" Heavy Duty) with the car tuned to produce just enough power so it could be driven from the engine shop to the body shop. Took more than 3 months to convince ACPT it was defective, so I could get my $700+ back from them.

I've seen several aluminum shafts break, including a 3.5" Lingenfelter shaft. I run Mark Williams 3" chrome moly.... strong, and the chrome moly keeps it close to the weight of the stock steel DS.

the difference between the 1le and ls1 is the diameter of the shaft itself. i think the LS1 is 3" and the 1le is 3.5"

or something along those lines.

both are basically the same, i don't think one is stronger by any measurable (or advertised) amount. but they are btter balanced than the steel ones


The 1LE is stronger than the LS1... I know of several LS1's that were twisted in half.. but have yet to hear [post up if you have] of a 1LE being broken?..

What do you think he drives?
A Ford Mustang.:D
I had an LS1 shaft in my IROC, I sold it to my friend who put it in his GTA, he called me 3 days later he broke it and was stranded. ;)

Eh, personally, I put one in my car to try and fix the vibration issue.... didn't do a thing for it... sold it for what I paid for it, and put the $$ twords a Denny's NR shaft... works great now with no vibes.

A 1LE DS is 2 3/4" and I broke one right in half on the dyno. I went with a good, balanced 3" steel one from A-1 Driveline in Baltimore, MD. Its one that F-Body Central uses in their 9 second cars...Imho its worth a little extra weight for the piece of mind...

--Alan

I'm running a M6 with a street twin with 410s and 12bolt moser and MT's.
I've already split a 1LE. By the way they are paper thin dont waste any time with them unless you're running an auto:eek: .

Anyway I really want to use something around 12 -14#s but want to be sure I'm not going to snap. The lingenfelter is 12.2# and it has been my intent to order one shortly. But after seeing Injuneer say he's seen one break I'm a little hesitant.

Injun :bow: - what was the situation with the car if you remember? & whats the weigth on the Mark Williams unit you're using. I live about 15 min. from the Mark Williams shop so definately familiar with there quality and price!:eek: :eek:

Thanks

The LPE 3.5" aluminum shaft was in George Baxter's 30th Anniversary SS convertible. At the time the LPE broke, the SS was close to 4,000# and only making about 750 flywheelHP on a 383 with Vortec S/C, a T56 tranny and a Street Twin. It was only running in the 10's. The car eventually ran 8.60@160+MPH with 1.30 60-ft, with a Mark Williams DS.

My Mark Williams 3" chrome moly was 19# compared to 17# for the stock DS. That was when the MW replaced the stocker and I was running the original T56 with a Street Twin. Currently running a TH400 with a Gear Vendor, so the DS is a lot shorter than is used to be, and closer to 14#.

Most manufacturers seem to rate their aluminum DS's for 800HP max. There is a "metal matrix" that is good for more than that, and I'm not sure how the weight compares.

I just don't think that looking for a few HP out of the DS is worth the risk.

I'm not planning on going anywhere near 800hp but I was thinking more in terms of shockload being a concern. I keep seeing these ratings in hp and when I see them I just assume that they tested w. an auto vs a m6.

After reading many of your posts I have confidence in your opinion. If I were to run in the 400-450 hp range I would liklely be safe with an aluminum.

I think the LPE 3.5 aluminum would be fine at that HP level. Mark Williams also makes aluminum, carbon fiber and other types of driveshafts. You want solid 1350 u-joints, and forged yokes.

where can i buy a 1LE DS? I cant find any sites that carry em

From GM.. p/n 10085375
Try Jason or Dal..

Aluminum is nice for low power cars that do not run sticky tires. If it's making good power, especially if it's used at the track, the stock steel shaft is better than either of the aluminum shafts. If it's a hi-po setup, get a good CM shaft (see the sticky in DS Tech).

Rich