those who run dual in-tank walbros

How is yours set up:

stock lines or AN lines?
Those with AN lines, what size feed and return?
Are you using a Hobbe's switch to kick on the second pump or do you run them continuously?

Does anyone see a problem with running both pumps continuously if the lines and regulator can keep up? (heat?)

ttt - I'd like to know also and how much did everything cost?

-B

Well I don't know if you know the price of Lonnies pump. But a PNP setup from him is 600 bucks. I just sent my spare sending unit back to him to build me one w/ his hobb switch. Thought about the MSD activated unit but I'll see how his works being boost related 1st.

I want to switch to AN lines as well but I don't know the sizes to go w/. I'll have to look around and see what others used for sizes on the return line etc.

Yup I'm condiering Lonnie's set up but also debatin on wether or not to go with either larger hard lines and a few feet of stainless lines to feed my blown 383.

-B

Well I run steel lines from the bottom of the driver seat up to the quick disconnect lines. I think they're 6-an lines but can't remember. But I want to run steel lines all the way from the rails to the tank.

Fwiw, we've made nearly 1000rwhp with dual walbros and the stock fuel line/filter, and upgraded rails. (turbocharged)

We always turn on the second pump with a hobbs switch and relay also.

Stock lines, regulator, rails, filter.

Dual 255's, one triggered by an "oil pressure switch" installed directly in the intake manifold. It comes on at 3 - 5 psi.

Total cost: about $120

I tried running both and the fuel pressure drifted up quick.

Mike

What did you do for the wiring from the alternator to the pumps? and did you reuse the stock bucket?

-B

Fwiw, we've made nearly 1000rwhp with dual walbros and the stock fuel line/filter, and upgraded rails. (turbocharged)

We always turn on the second pump with a hobbs switch and relay also.

Well I'll just stick w/ modified rails and leave the rest alone then and see what happens.

What did you do for the wiring from the alternator to the pumps? and did you reuse the stock bucket?

I have a dedicated hot wire from the battery to the relay 2nd fuel pump. The stock wiring powers the other pump.

I removed the stock bucket.

Engineermike, Question, Is it true that with the twin pumps that you make mods to the inside of the tank that force you to drive on a half tank or more. Or doe's the pick up & everything the same. Can you run the tank dry?..Joe

Engineermike, Question, Is it true that with the twin pumps that you make mods to the inside of the tank that force you to drive on a half tank or more. Or doe's the pick up & everything the same. Can you run the tank dry?..Joe

There is a fuel strainer attached to the bottom of each pump and this stays at the same height as the stock one. I never run mine over 1/2 tank.

im running two walbro 255's no stock bucket, just clamped them to the stock bracket, like mike, stock wiring runs one, hobbs switch on the other (well not yet, but once i hook it up) -10an feed -6an return, also the majority is 5/8 hardline and 3/8 hard return line, from about the LCA chassis mount up to about 6 inches before they come through the stock fuel line location in the driver side fenderwell its all hardline, the rest is stainless.

-10 y-ed into -8 feed into the back of each rail, with an inline -10 fuel filter, and -6 return from each rail to my aeromotive fpr.

pics on my site in sig

total cost, pumps $200
hard line $40
stainless and fittings ~$100
fuel filter $40
hobbs switch was under $20, dont remember exact price

I'm just wondering if there would be a problem with running both pumps continuously if the regulator (not stock) and -6AN return line could flow enough... It would certainly simplify the wiring.

big power line, use stock power line to trigger a relay.

I'm just wondering if there would be a problem with running both pumps continuously if the regulator (not stock) and -6AN return line could flow enough... It would certainly simplify the wiring.

big power line, use stock power line to trigger a relay.

I bought my setup off of 1st and goal and he has it setup with twin intanks, no bucket, hobbs switch, 8an feed to BG filter, 8 up to a y- block where it splits into dual 8's into each rail. I think its 6an (it may be 8 an to the regulator...dont remember) to the regulator and 6an return to the tank.

I run a Racetronic dual intank with stock lines and have no problem with fuel. Its a nice setup to be honest.

I have the twin in-tank setup I put together myself - looks like this

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/2108000-2108999/2108416_9_full.jpg

But I used the anti kink fuel lines. The pumps I picked up for like $80 bucks each new, then fittings etc. I run the stock fuel lines all the way till the convertible cross over brace (about a foot forward of the transmission crossmember) and then go to braided which come up behind the engine.

I tried to do it with the stock bucket. It fit together just fine - but good luck getting it into the sodding tank. :-P I got rid of the bucket.

Anyone know if the LS1 tank has a larger opening?

Running 2 Walbro 255 LPH in over/ under config on a modified stock tank bracket. Running aeroquip dual 3/8 socketless hose from tank to one -10 alum line (Y) to Aeroquip filter in motor compartment area. Custom tank bulkhead plate. Return line is stock. No trigger on 2nd pump - continuously run. Kenney Bell BAP on pump #1. Dual circuits (painless) for each pump with power sourced from stock relay. 2nd pump can be switched off from drivers seat. No plastic bucket. Low fuel can starve system when cornering hard.
--- 1997 383 D1 15psi 72# Siemens w/ acceleronics and LT1 edit

I have the twin in-tank setup I put together myself - looks like this

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/2108000-2108999/2108416_9_full.jpg



^hey thats mine ^ lol:D

Running 2 Walbro 255 LPH in over/ under config on a modified stock tank bracket. Running aeroquip dual 3/8 socketless hose from tank to one -10 alum line (Y) to Aeroquip filter in motor compartment area. Custom tank bulkhead plate. Return line is stock. No trigger on 2nd pump - continuously run. Kenney Bell BAP on pump #1. Dual circuits (painless) for each pump with power sourced from stock relay. 2nd pump can be switched off from drivers seat. No plastic bucket. Low fuel can starve system when cornering hard.
--- 1997 383 D1 15psi 72# Siemens w/ acceleronics and LT1 edit


Do you have pictures? I'm looking for someone that has a step by step write up, including part mumbers for a compete fuel system.

-B

all summit part numbers

y block: mrf-mp-6286
barbed -6an fittings (for fuel lines from y-block to pumps): aer-fbm1512
adapter: aer-fbm2163
female flare swivel: aer-fbm2972
90 fitting: ear-934108erl
90 bulkhead: ear-983308erl
Fuel injection fuel line...from napa

No plastic bucket. Low fuel can starve system when cornering hard.

The one thing I considered slightly was keeping the bucket but modifying it so that the rounded side was cut down from that huge rounded edge - reducing internal volume for fuel but getting the assembly with both pumps strapped together into the tank easier... But I dont push the car in the corners, espicially under throttle.

I'm mapping out a fuel system and all of the fittings required to run the dual intank pumps with stainless braided lines, aluminum hard lines, and plumbing the stock rails for dual feed and return. I should have something together by tomorrow with a full list of part numbers and prices.

This is taking a lot more effort than I thought! :eek:

-B

I run a Racetronic dual intank with stock lines and have no problem with fuel. Its a nice setup to be honest.
Some people are saying they don't have a problem with fuel, and some say that they do. I'm wondering which way is more realistic.

Are people finding that they are not able to run a low tank while cornering with retaining the stock bucket, or without?

Are people finding that they are not able to run a low tank while cornering with retaining the stock bucket, or without?

probably without. The return line flows into the bucket, so if they were running a bucket, there should be plenty of fuel in the bucket to run part-throttle.

I'd like to see pics of the over/under setup if it would fit in the bucket. I would assume there's a bit of hard line from the bottom of the pump to the sock to keep the sock low... Any pics?

I wish I had a bucket outside of a tank so I could do some playing around with pumps and trying to make things fit. I already have a spare plate...

The one thing I considered slightly was keeping the bucket but modifying it so that the rounded side was cut down from that huge rounded edge - reducing internal volume for fuel but getting the assembly with both pumps strapped together into the tank easier... But I dont push the car in the corners, espicially under throttle.


I'm going for the bucket. Has anyone got it to work w/ the bucket though? I hit the corners hard so I need some protection.

I'm going for the bucket. Has anyone got it to work w/ the bucket though? I hit the corners hard so I need some protection.
What he said.:)

I use the stock lines and a hobbs switch i run less than half a tank a lot

I use the stock lines and a hobbs switch i run less than half a tank a lot
Did you retain the bucket? Are you able to corner hard on throttle?

I do NOT have the bucket. BUT, (Its a long story) I'm not sure if Jack's setup keeps the bucket intact normally. I think its pretty difficult to maintain the bucket and have two pumps. *shrug*

I use the stock lines and a hobbs switch i run less than half a tank a lot

Slotz, What have you done for placement of your air filter?

Sorry I thread jacked

Sorry I thread jacked
Well... I can make anything out of sheetmetal. How about a funtioning stainless steel dual pump bucket?

Well... I can make anything out of sheetmetal. How about a funtioning stainless steel dual pump bucket?


good luck getting it to fit in the hole in teh tank...the stock bucket barely fits...and if you did find a way to get two pumps in a bucket, you would have to increase volume of the bucket to keep from sucking it dry...i guess it you made it taller instead of larger radius it could work...but the tank is baffled where the strainers sit so im not really worried about it with no bucket

I just realized that Speed Inc. has a tank to fuel rail set up for $1000.00 :eek:

-B

I just realized that Speed Inc. has a tank to fuel rail set up for $1000.00 :eek:

-B
Do you have a direct link? I couldn't find it on their site.

http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm?catagory=Fuel%20/%20Cooling
Very top no picture.

And subscribing.

That's find if you want to drill, install a bulkhead, and run a big external pump. Though you can probably piece together an external setup for a few hundred cheaper.

I'd rather run the internal pumps and cut down on fuel pump whine, but I can't say that I haven't thought about a big external pump.

The link didn't work for me. Here's what I found though. :)

Race Fuel System Kit - 1
700HP Race Fuel System, F-body for use with STOCK tank, requires drilling stock tank and installing a bulkhead fitting, includes:

-Bosch 420L 700+HP pump
-Billet Filter w/stainless element
-Billet Fuel Pressure regulator (boost ready)
-Billet LS1 or LT1 rails
-Autometer 0-100 Fuel pressure gauge
-All necessary braided lines and fittings

Includes everything needed from start-to-finish

-For Aeromotive Comp Eliminator pump, add $100

FUELSYS1 Race Fuel System 1 $999.99

The link didn't work for me. Here's what I found though. :)


My bad ... obviously, you didn't need it anyhow. :D

Running 2 Walbro 255 LPH in over/ under config on a modified stock tank bracket. Running aeroquip dual 3/8 socketless hose from tank to one -10 alum line (Y) to Aeroquip filter in motor compartment area. Custom tank bulkhead plate.What is 'socketless' hose?

What is 'socketless' hose?

http://www.hosexpress.com/hose/socketless/hosepic.jpg

Gotcha! So it's not really the hose but the fitting where it gets the name. Looks to be a poor man's alternative to braided line. Thanks, Chris. :thumb:

:lol: It still isn't cheap. The fittings are about the same price, and the hose is only marginally cheaper.

Yes I got pics (blown383). You want, I can send. Also schematic (acad format). No plastic bucket. It did not fit with 2 pumps. I run @ least a 1/4 tank. A 1/4 tank goes fast when you lean hard on it. Seams I'm always fillin-up. About 5.4 mpg and that's not lean-in on it. I may need some help dropping the pics someplace where you can retreve them (I dont know where to do that). I dont know why I did'nt buy a racetronics system, I just did it as a winter project. I'll have to do a document, but, I'm workin alot now.

Yes I got pics (blown383). You want, I can send. Also schematic (acad format). No plastic bucket. It did not fit with 2 pumps. I run @ least a 1/4 tank. A 1/4 tank goes fast when you lean hard on it. Seams I'm always fillin-up. About 5.4 mpg and that's not lean-in on it. I may need some help dropping the pics someplace where you can retreve them (I dont know where to do that). I dont know why I did'nt buy a racetronics system, I just did it as a winter project. I'll have to do a document, but, I'm workin alot now.

Yeah if its not too much trouble can you please send them to me? Thanks!

blown383@yahoo.com

You can also post pics on www.photobucket.com

-B

Yes I got pics (blown383). You want, I can send. Also schematic (acad format). No plastic bucket. It did not fit with 2 pumps. I run @ least a 1/4 tank. A 1/4 tank goes fast when you lean hard on it. Seams I'm always fillin-up. About 5.4 mpg and that's not lean-in on it. I may need some help dropping the pics someplace where you can retreve them (I dont know where to do that). I dont know why I did'nt buy a racetronics system, I just did it as a winter project. I'll have to do a document, but, I'm workin alot now.


5.4mpg? :wow: What is your setup if I may ask? Just around the town type driving? Not like I'm worried but I'm just getting a feel for what to expect when my project is complete. Only drive mine on wkends so it's not a concern but man you must not go far w/ that mileage. :D

I have a Racetronix dual in-tank setup, but haven't installed it yet.

It has the hobbes switch for the second pump, and also has 8AN fitting brazed on the outlet, 6AN brazed to the return. I'll be running 8AN for supply and return though.

Kind of wishing I kept the stock lines setup seeing what some people are doing with them now, but I wanted a high ceiling for the fuel portion of this project so I decided to go big up front.

Also going to be running it with no bucket.

I have a Racetronix dual in-tank setup, but haven't installed it yet.

It has the hobbes switch for the second pump, and also has 8AN fitting brazed on the outlet, 6AN brazed to the return. I'll be running 8AN for supply and return though.

Kind of wishing I kept the stock lines setup seeing what some people are doing with them now, but I wanted a high ceiling for the fuel portion of this project so I decided to go big up front.

Also going to be running it with no bucket.

Do you have pics?

-B

Yes I got pics (blown383). You want, I can send. Also schematic (acad format). No plastic bucket. It did not fit with 2 pumps. I run @ least a 1/4 tank. A 1/4 tank goes fast when you lean hard on it. Seams I'm always fillin-up. About 5.4 mpg and that's not lean-in on it. I may need some help dropping the pics someplace where you can retreve them (I dont know where to do that). I dont know why I did'nt buy a racetronics system, I just did it as a winter project. I'll have to do a document, but, I'm workin alot now.

5.4 mph? That doesn't sound right at all. :confused:

I can manage to get 12 mpg with my car (770 rwhp/6 speed/4.11 gear).

I am using the Racetronix twin pump, MSD RPM activated switch to turn on the 2nd pump, Accel fuel rails, custom fabricated adjustable fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel lines, and stock fuel filter.
http://www.camarohighway.com/MFBA/2005/FLP-0402/IMG_0363.jpg

5.4 mph? That doesn't sound right at all. :confused:

I can manage to get 12 mpg with my car (770 rwhp/6 speed/4.11 gear).

I am using the Racetronix twin pump, MSD RPM activated switch to turn on the 2nd pump, Accel fuel rails, custom fabricated adjustable fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel lines, and stock fuel filter.


I see some braided line at the front of your fuel rails, did you have it modified and why? Also what did you do about the wiring for power for the 2nd pump.

-B

I see some braided line at the front of your fuel rails, did you have it modified and why? Also what did you do about the wiring for power for the 2nd pump.

-B
The braided lines are for the cross-over. The Racetronix harness came with a hobs switch that I removed for the MSD rpm activated switch. It was simple to make the swap for the rpm activated switch... easy instructions from MSD.

Duals running continuously with stock lines and base pressure set at 65 psi, 6,000 miles and counting……. I had to run a power wire to the pumps, it was drawing 17 amps.

The braided lines are for the cross-over. The Racetronix harness came with a hobs switch that I removed for the MSD rpm activated switch. It was simple to make the swap for the rpm activated switch... easy instructions from MSD.
Why did you decide to run an RPM activated switch rather than a boost referenced one? It seems as though the need for more fuel would depend more on boost amounts rather than RPM. Just curious.

Why did you decide to run an RPM activated switch rather than a boost referenced one? It seems as though the need for more fuel would depend more on boost amounts rather than RPM. Just curious.

I'm not a big fan of the Hobbs switch. I don't like the "adjustability" of the Hobbs switch as there are no reference marks of boost. With the RPM activated switch, I'll always know when the 2nd pump will turn on. The engine would see low boost well before it would need to turn on the 2nd pump... so why turn it on? I don't need more fuel yet. At WOT and at the RPM that the 2nd pump will turn on is fine for my application.
http://www.flp2win.com/cart/templates/featured/mitchscar/mitchsdyno.jpg

The braided lines are for the cross-over. The Racetronix harness came with a hobs switch that I removed for the MSD rpm activated switch. It was simple to make the swap for the rpm activated switch... easy instructions from MSD.

What I'm trying to ask is about the main power line to the dual pumps. Is it just one fat wire from the alternator that splits to both pumps or is it 2 wires?

-B

you can do that either way. Just make sure that the wiring can take what the pump is trying to draw. For a safe margin, run wiring that can move 20amps for each pump. One big wire that can move 40amps of current should be just as good as 2 wires capable of moving 20 amps each.

I'm a fan of going overkill... I bought an amplifier wiring kit that came with 8 gauge wire and a 60A inline fuse. Then finished it off with 2 30/40 amp waterproof relays out back. It's not completely built or in the car yet, so I don't have real world experience, but it should be more juice than the pumps will ever need.

I'm not a big fan of the Hobbs switch. I don't like the "adjustability" of the Hobbs switch as there are no reference marks of boost. With the RPM activated switch, I'll always know when the 2nd pump will turn on. The engine would see low boost well before it would need to turn on the 2nd pump... so why turn it on? I don't need more fuel yet. At WOT and at the RPM that the 2nd pump will turn on is fine for my application.
http://www.flp2win.com/cart/templates/featured/mitchscar/mitchsdyno.jpg
If the Hobbs switch is adjustable, couldn't you set it so that it wouldn't come until a certain boost point (i.e. 7lbs)? That way, if you are seeing a little higher RPM but not fully on the gas,. And, since (on a turbo) the amount of boost is directly related to the load and RPM, it seems as though it would be pretty accurate (once you get it adjusted right. This way you wont have the 2nd pump kicking on when it's not needed.

Maybe an RPM activated switch would be better for supercharged apps since boost is directly related to RPM, and a Hobbs is a little better for turbo cars since boost is more load related? :think:

Do you have pics?

-B

I can take some with my cellphone. Give me some time and I'll have them up.

Thanks man I appreciate it!

-B

Anybody have a summit part # for the hobbs switch. :)

Its a vortech part and the guy at Summit doesn't know at what psi the switch is activated and he doesn't know if its even adjustable. You can call up Vortech and let us know. Part # is VOR-8D002-001

-B

Its a vortech part and the guy at Summit doesn't know at what psi the switch is activated and he doesn't know if its even adjustable. You can call up Vortech and let us know. Part # is VOR-8D002-001

-B
According to Lonnie, it is somewhat adjustable. He thought it come on around 5PSI or so. It would be better to as Vortech directly though if they manufacture it.

How are you guys safely running the extra power and ground wire into the tank? Is there a fitting or just alot of fuel resistant sealer?


For those of you running stock lines and the dual walbro, are you using the small stock feed line that exits the tank or an AN Bulkhead fitting? It looks pretty restrictive.

Thanks in advance.:cool:

Its a vortech part and the guy at Summit doesn't know at what psi the switch is activated and he doesn't know if its even adjustable. You can call up Vortech and let us know. Part # is VOR-8D002-001

-B


Thanks. Also, your schematic was very helpful also. I'll call vortech if I can ever get some time away from work.

I've changed plans with my car setup so my Racetronix dual kit is for sale if someone is interested. It's all new in the box and the harnesses haven't even been taken out of the bag they came to me in. $625 Shipped.

Dibs and pics please! blown383@yahoo.com Also would you seperate the harness?

-B

How are you guys safely running the extra power and ground wire into the tank? Is there a fitting or just alot of fuel resistant sealer?


For those of you running stock lines and the dual walbro, are you using the small stock feed line that exits the tank or an AN Bulkhead fitting? It looks pretty restrictive.

Thanks in advance.:cool:


According to Lonnie those lines will support 9 sec time slips and 700-750rwhp. I wonder the same thing too but on the side of caution I'm going larger on the feed -8. The return line will still be the same just running a -6 up til the tank then using a quick disconnect fitting at that point. Should be more than enough

According to Lonnie those lines will support 9 sec time slips and 700-750rwhp. I wonder the same thing too but on the side of caution I'm going larger on the feed -8. The return line will still be the same just running a -6 up til the tank then using a quick disconnect fitting at that point. Should be more than enough

My dual in-tank is supporting 770 rwhp. Logged a few runs at the track and my air/fuel ratio was good. Looking forward to using nitrous this year to see how much the stock lines will support. :)

My pump setup is now sold. Thanks for the interest.

Dibs and pics please! blown383@yahoo.com Also would you seperate the harness?

-B
B' sucks.:)

B' sucks.:)

I plead the 5th. :cool: I also have 2 brand new high pressure walbro pumps comming in that I won't need anymore. If you need them let me know.

-B

I plead the 5th. :cool: I also have 2 brand new high pressure walbro pumps comming in that I won't need anymore. If you need them let me know.

-B

What do you want for them and will you seperate them?

Thanks, Todd

A few guys have asked me about the pumps for sale... I'll post once they come in and I gather up the other parts I'm selling. All of the fuel related items are NIB and the valve train items except the rotating assembly have under 500 miles on them.

Tentative sale includes:

2 - Walbro F20000169 pumps - Sold to gearhead3
1 - Racetronix intank pump, with hot wire harness
1 - MSD boost-a-pump
1 - Aeromotive LT1 regulator
ATI twin intercooler set up with bypass valve ,all rubber couplers & elbows, and modified Vortech elbow to replace the crappy ATI designed intake elbow.
CC 986 springs, seats, retainers
CC 236/242 110lsa cam
Combination Motorsports EX valve springs good for .600 lift
Stage 8 locking header bolts
ARP head bolts
Stock rotating assembly which includes, crank, rods, pistons,