Clutch Pedal Sticking
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5
From: Palos Verdes California
Clutch Pedal Sticking
Ugh, well Ive been having this problem on my 2000 SS. Clutch pedal seems to be getting stuck in the down position. It also sometimes when trying to engage a gear will not let my push the stick into a certain gear I then have to push the clutch a couple times to try and get it engaged. I think it may be a problem with the pedal mechanism. Any suggestions will be much appreciated thanks,
Robert
Robert
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Joined: Sep 1998
Posts: 8,319
From: US 1 Mile Marker 52 in the Florida Keys
Re: Clutch Pedal Sticking
research the "drill mod"
there is a restriction built into one of the hydrolic lines on the clutch master cylinder, it is WELL known for causing the pedal to stick
check out www.installuniversity.com i think they have a whole write up on it
there is a restriction built into one of the hydrolic lines on the clutch master cylinder, it is WELL known for causing the pedal to stick
check out www.installuniversity.com i think they have a whole write up on it
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7
Re: Clutch Pedal Sticking
After closer inspection of the hydraulic system we came to the conclusion that the problem was with the clutch master cylinder. If you sat at a light or something and held the clutch pedal in, the clutch would start to engage after a few seconds. We could tell that we were not leaking any fluid, so we decided that it was not the slave.
I bought a new clutch master cylinder and we installed it on Saturday. Since we had the clutch hydraulic system completely disconnected we decided to perform the “drill mod.” That was the easiest part of the job and went by without a hitch. Installing the new master cylinder was a little more difficult then I thought it would be. The master cylinder is right under the break boost, so you can’t see it at all and you have to get the annoying U bolt lined up by feel while your arm starts cramping from being twisted and bent in ways that God had not intended.
After a frustrating hour of that we bled out the system. It took a long time and a lot of “pumping” to get the clutch pedal to feel right, but it was pretty straight forward.
I don’t know if it is because my clutch master cylinder had been going out for a while and I did not notice it, or if it is a result of the “drill mod,” but the car shifts better then it ever did! It feels like a whole new clutch. I am very impressed with smooth feel of the shift into all gears, and clutch is much more responsive now. I gave it a little gas on the test drive and was delighted to hear my tires chirp when I went from second to third.
I bought a new clutch master cylinder and we installed it on Saturday. Since we had the clutch hydraulic system completely disconnected we decided to perform the “drill mod.” That was the easiest part of the job and went by without a hitch. Installing the new master cylinder was a little more difficult then I thought it would be. The master cylinder is right under the break boost, so you can’t see it at all and you have to get the annoying U bolt lined up by feel while your arm starts cramping from being twisted and bent in ways that God had not intended.
After a frustrating hour of that we bled out the system. It took a long time and a lot of “pumping” to get the clutch pedal to feel right, but it was pretty straight forward.
I don’t know if it is because my clutch master cylinder had been going out for a while and I did not notice it, or if it is a result of the “drill mod,” but the car shifts better then it ever did! It feels like a whole new clutch. I am very impressed with smooth feel of the shift into all gears, and clutch is much more responsive now. I gave it a little gas on the test drive and was delighted to hear my tires chirp when I went from second to third.
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