WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
PM 1BAD86Z, he'll take good care of you
Scott will give you so much communication as he builds your axle that you'll wonder how on earth he ever got your phone number!
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
PM 1BAD86Z, he'll take good care of you
Scott will give you so much communication as he builds your axle that you'll wonder how on earth he ever got your phone number! :thumbup:
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Originally Posted by ws6transam
I second that,
Scott will give you so much communication as he builds your axle that you'll wonder how on earth he ever got your phone number! :thumbup:
Scott will give you so much communication as he builds your axle that you'll wonder how on earth he ever got your phone number! :thumbup:
Lol, yeah. Much like me, he talks alot but he's a great guy. He's built several for me over the years, my friends as well. He's going to build one for my Vette when I get back from Vegas, I can't wait.
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Originally Posted by ws6transam
I second that,
Scott will give you so much communication as he builds your axle that you'll wonder how on earth he ever got your phone number!
Scott will give you so much communication as he builds your axle that you'll wonder how on earth he ever got your phone number!
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Originally Posted by IROC5.7TPI
Scott's a good guy, someone i'd definitely trust with my ride.
, Scott has already sent me info., and I'm sure he will be doing mine.Bill
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Hey Dan, I see you got the new one and old one side by side, any chance you could slide them on a scale? I'd like to know the weight difference. I think I'll be going with the same thing, 12bolt/trutrac/33spline.
What gears are in yours?
What gears are in yours?
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Hi Jake and John,
Well yes, my 10 bolt was looking a little stressed. Some monster wheelhop last May made the axle eat a crush sleeve and it spat the remains out into the bottom of the gear case. No other aparrent damage other than the resulting excessive gear lash and whine. The Richmond gears looked okay to me, anyway. However the Moser 28 spline axles didnt fare as well: One of them was excessively worn at the bearing surface and it's at Moser right now being tested for heat treat problems.
Since I'm at 400 RWHP right now, with a 6-speed no less, my 10-bolt was going to have a hard time of it when I bolt in the NX nitrous kit this spring. In addition, I want to try being more aggressive on my launches, because the excessive slipping of the clutch (to preserve the gears) killed my clutch on October 30th. Now that I'm installing a hardier clutch, nitrous, and probably better tires, I figured it was time to upgrade the axle assembly.
John, I'll try to weigh the axles. There's definitely a big difference in mass, and you can plainly see it in the diameter of the two axles:

These 33 spline axles are supposed to be good for over 7000 foot-pounds of torque, which is safe (by a factor of two) to 800 ft.lb of torque at the crankshaft. Needless to say, I'm probably safe by a factor of four and it shouldnt break, ever. Not even with a 6000 RPM clutch dump!
Now, tied into this new piece is serial number ELEVEN of the new Unbalanced Enginering torque arm, a true decoupled torque arm design that is a first of its kind. Although designed specifically for the fourth gen, I'm adapting it to fit the third-gen chassis. I expect that I will be the very first third-gen in the nation to actually have one of these fine pieces under the car. This is a 24 inch long torque arm that is decoupled from the chassis so that braking instant center and acceleration instant center can be individually optimized. Thus, the i.c. for acceleration can be set for maximum traction, while the braking forces can be set to minimize wheelhop on hard braking. It looks very cool in theory and I feel lucky to have one of the first dozen that Jason Swindle created.
Here's the picture of it, sitting in front of a Spohn torque arm. Another advantage of it is that now I will have room for those ceramic coated Hooker long tube headers that have been hanging in my garage since 2001.
http://www.ws6transam.org/t56torquearm4.jpg
You can read more about it at http://www.unbalancedengineering.com
I especially like the fact that there are NO sloppy rod ends to worry about: All adjustments are made with shims. In fact, tonight I installed the T/A onto the new axle and it's SOLID! It feels like the torque arm is WELDED onto the axle!
Now I need to find myself a new driveshaft. I'm leaning towards either a Chromoly extreme duty driveshaft, or perhaps even a carbon fiber driveshaft. Critical speed is rather important to me, as I'm considering doing the ECTA top speed challenge event out east next year: It's a one-mile acceleration event and with 3.73's there's a real possibility of seeing 8500 RPM on the driveshaft. So I'm going to need a really good driveshaft. However I'm presently out of money so it's going to have to wait for now
Well yes, my 10 bolt was looking a little stressed. Some monster wheelhop last May made the axle eat a crush sleeve and it spat the remains out into the bottom of the gear case. No other aparrent damage other than the resulting excessive gear lash and whine. The Richmond gears looked okay to me, anyway. However the Moser 28 spline axles didnt fare as well: One of them was excessively worn at the bearing surface and it's at Moser right now being tested for heat treat problems.
Since I'm at 400 RWHP right now, with a 6-speed no less, my 10-bolt was going to have a hard time of it when I bolt in the NX nitrous kit this spring. In addition, I want to try being more aggressive on my launches, because the excessive slipping of the clutch (to preserve the gears) killed my clutch on October 30th. Now that I'm installing a hardier clutch, nitrous, and probably better tires, I figured it was time to upgrade the axle assembly.
John, I'll try to weigh the axles. There's definitely a big difference in mass, and you can plainly see it in the diameter of the two axles:

These 33 spline axles are supposed to be good for over 7000 foot-pounds of torque, which is safe (by a factor of two) to 800 ft.lb of torque at the crankshaft. Needless to say, I'm probably safe by a factor of four and it shouldnt break, ever. Not even with a 6000 RPM clutch dump!
Now, tied into this new piece is serial number ELEVEN of the new Unbalanced Enginering torque arm, a true decoupled torque arm design that is a first of its kind. Although designed specifically for the fourth gen, I'm adapting it to fit the third-gen chassis. I expect that I will be the very first third-gen in the nation to actually have one of these fine pieces under the car. This is a 24 inch long torque arm that is decoupled from the chassis so that braking instant center and acceleration instant center can be individually optimized. Thus, the i.c. for acceleration can be set for maximum traction, while the braking forces can be set to minimize wheelhop on hard braking. It looks very cool in theory and I feel lucky to have one of the first dozen that Jason Swindle created.
Here's the picture of it, sitting in front of a Spohn torque arm. Another advantage of it is that now I will have room for those ceramic coated Hooker long tube headers that have been hanging in my garage since 2001.
http://www.ws6transam.org/t56torquearm4.jpg
You can read more about it at http://www.unbalancedengineering.com
I especially like the fact that there are NO sloppy rod ends to worry about: All adjustments are made with shims. In fact, tonight I installed the T/A onto the new axle and it's SOLID! It feels like the torque arm is WELDED onto the axle!
Now I need to find myself a new driveshaft. I'm leaning towards either a Chromoly extreme duty driveshaft, or perhaps even a carbon fiber driveshaft. Critical speed is rather important to me, as I'm considering doing the ECTA top speed challenge event out east next year: It's a one-mile acceleration event and with 3.73's there's a real possibility of seeing 8500 RPM on the driveshaft. So I'm going to need a really good driveshaft. However I'm presently out of money so it's going to have to wait for now
Re: WTB: 12-bolt / 9" rear
Originally Posted by MYT30TH
Need a rear for the "Z" sometime before spring w/ 4:11's suited for a 97, please lmk what you have.
Regards,
Bill
Regards,
Bill
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