Lowering Question

I'm going to buy some eibach springs and Hotchkis shocks, my question is if I lower the car is there anything else that I would need to do or buy so I don't **** anything up as far as ride quality, a panhard rod (what's that for anyway) or something like that. Thanks for the help.

Relocation brackets for the lower control arms. Otherwise the wheels will hop.

Panhard rod is to "locate" the body of the car directly over the axle. Lowering the car to the axle changes the distance needed for the panhard rod, essentially meaning you need an adjustable one. Panhard rod also stops lateral motion during turns. All in all, it keeps the body in the correct place over the axle. And yes, you'll need one of these too.

I'm just assuming you did this to your car so how much would those two things cost (less expensive the better) and what are the brands you bought and are they giving you any problems?

No I did not do these things to my car, but I know someone who lowered his car 1.5".

Lower control arm relocation brackets cost around 100. Ebay has them a little cheaper. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=29063 You don't need new LCA's, just so you know. You can keep the stock ones.

The panhard rod will also cost around 90-100. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=24299&parentCategoryId=11319&langId=-1

When I drove in his car (the lowered one), the suspension was really stiff, the panhard kept the car from swaying back and forth. I think he had eibachs, don't know what shocks, but the car was a good handler.

For brands, it really does not matter, unless you are going to go all out racing. Aftermarket brands are all so close to eachother it does not really matter, in my opinion.

1st.......I can't say I would reccomend that shock and spring combo, have you researched what you are talking about? Pro kits and revlaved bilsteins is generally the handling ticket while being lower.

2nd......A panhard bar has nothing to do with the "sway" of the car. The PHR only locates the axle from side to side. When you lower a car it will shift the rear end over so that one wheel is closer to the outside of the car than the other. An adjustable bar allows the wheels to be evenly spaced under the body. You do have to adjust it first though. with standard 16x8s or 17x9s there will be no interference issues.

3rd.......If you have 315s under the car, you will definitly need an adjustable PHR otherwise you should be fine.

4th.......I would highly reccomend LCA reloc. brkts. The difference with them is night and day. http://www.umiperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=37 you can get them for $59 here. Do the weld in.

1st.......I can't say I would reccomend that shock and spring combo, have you researched what you are talking about? Pro kits and revlaved bilsteins is generally the handling ticket while being lower.

2nd......A panhard bar has nothing to do with the "sway" of the car. The PHR only locates the axle from side to side. When you lower a car it will shift the rear end over so that one wheel is closer to the outside of the car than the other. An adjustable bar allows the wheels to be evenly spaced under the body. You do have to adjust it first though. with standard 16x8s or 17x9s there will be no interference issues.

3rd.......If you have 315s under the car, you will definitly need an adjustable PHR otherwise you should be fine.

4th.......I would highly reccomend LCA reloc. brkts. The difference with them is night and day. http://www.umiperformance.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=37 you can get them for $59 here. Do the weld in.

1st....That is basically everything I just told him.

ShibbyZ

Maybe I misunderstood the panhard bar reducing sway and jumped to conclusions since the sway bar controls the rolling motion of the car. If I stepped on toes unnecessarily, my apologies.


If you're interested in building your own PHR that is a very high quality piece follow these direction here http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/PHB/AluminumPHB.html you can replace the aluminum for steel if you feel it necessary, but many have shown it not to be a need. There is also a guide for DYI LCAs if you feel it necessary. Just remember poly/poly is EVIL.

As stated already make sure your shocks are matched to the springs or else the ride quality will suck.

Well I'm buying both springs and shocks from a friend that he put on his '02 SS, 1.25"-1.5" drop, so they must be "matched" right? Another question, Is there any difference in suspensions from his SS and my '01 Z28 if I put his springs&shocks on my Z28. Would everything install smoothly? This may be a dumb question but I want to make sure before I spend the money.

I'm going to buy some eibach springs and Hotchkis shocks, my question is if I lower the car is there anything else that I would need to do or buy so I don't **** anything up as far as ride quality, a panhard rod (what's that for anyway) or something like that. Thanks for the help.
I've never heard of Hotchkis shocks. And no, you can not assume that they are matched, most likely they are not. Do some searching and you will come up with many explanations that are better than what you have gotten here so far as to what you need to consider when changing to shorter, stiffer springs.

Well then what shocks do you recommend to go with the Eibach pro springs?

Do a search, this topic has been beaten to death.

I'm running Bilsteins.

Do a search, this topic has been beaten to death.

I'm running Bilsteins.